Adj UCA or LCA's? Clear my thoughts...

[09AlloyGT]

Well hello everyone!

I am a new poster to this wonderful site, great info here BTW. I am still waiting for my Alloy Gt to arrive here in Ze Germany JA! (ordered back in July) I am looking for some clarity as I am trying to "build" my car before it even arrives haha, im sure like everyone else does. Im pretty sure I have this correct but If i use either adjustable UCA or LCA's they will do the same thing correct? Give me that pinion correctness Ill need once lowering the car, and removing some of the wheel hop. My two choices in my head are: aftermarket LCA's (non adj.) w/ a adj. UCA or aftermarket non adj UCA and two each adj LCA's....

Seems to me that the going with the adj. UCA and non LCA's is the cheaper route to arriving in the same place. Am I correct here in my thinking or just plain stupid? I plan to do a lowering/adj shock solution with a watts rear system as well...of course i want to do sway bars, bushings, k member, so on so forth too..not too worried about the engine side yet...this will be a long process to complete, but Im looking very forward to it, as this is my first american rwd V-8.

Thanks everyone,

Robert

 

[thump_rrr]

Welcome to the most hardcore bunch of S197 owners on the planet.
The first one is on me.

My preference is an adjustable UCA with non adjustable LCA's.
This way I don't need to worry about making sure that my LCA length is identical.
Whichever brand of components you decide to purchase do not grease them using the supplied grease fittings. This leads to cracked or split bushings.
Disassemble them and coat them with Energy Suspension Formula 5 Prelube found at Jegs or Summit racing. An 8oz jar will last you several years.
This same product can be used to coat any polyurethane bushing preventing squeaks and creaks.

 

[09AlloyGT]

Well thank you for the first round!

Any I plan to reimburse this board with any info I can. I agree with your thoughts on the LCA's as I dont want to have to worry about more adjustments being off or anything. Simplifying is the key.

Thanks man,

Robert

 

[08StangGT_CS]

Welcome to the most hardcore bunch of S197 owners on the planet.
The first one is on me.

My preference is an adjustable UCA with non adjustable LCA's.
This way I don't need to worry about making sure that my LCA length is identical.
Whichever brand of components you decide to purchase do not grease them using the supplied grease fittings. This leads to cracked or split bushings.
Disassemble them and coat them with Energy Suspension Formula 5 Prelube found at Jegs or Summit racing. An 8oz jar will last you several years.
This same product can be used to coat any polyurethane bushing preventing squeaks and creaks.

So its easier to make any adjustments through the UCA than the LCA?

 

[thump_rrr]

So its easier to make any adjustments through the UCA than the LCA?

The UCA is more difficult to get to for adjustment purposes. The problem with adjustable LCA's is that you can end up making one control arm longer than the other creating weird handling issues.
I have also heard of people stripping the treads out of LCA's before yet I've never heard of anyone doing this with a UCA.

 

[Johnboy7701]

Congrats on the stang when you get it, I also bought mine when in Iraq and delivered to Germany when I got back.. too bad for the speed limiter it goes 149 just in case you were wondering on the Autobahn.. I was in K-town and got delivered to Volgeweh... and they left me with 3 miles worth of gas.. and gave me 25 bucks off in lieu of a full tank...

 

[RKW]

Leave your control arms alone. They (and the rubber bushings) are integral to how the car handles. Even the high horsepower mustangs have more or less the same arms. Don't worry about pinion angle with stock 2 piece driveshaft, it will be fine. If you lower the car, add LCA drop brackets and make sure they are properly installed. I have BMR, but I would get CHE. LCA drop brackets alone will kill the wheel hop.

Watts link sounds ideal, but adjustable panhard is also a very good option. Many race Mustangs running with this. These cars are very well engineered...less is more sometimes.

 

[SloSVO]

I have BMR, but I would get CHE. LCA drop brackets alone will kill the wheel hop.

Why would you switch?

 

[RKW]

BMR has two holes, CHE just one. With BMR, the drop is lower than it needs to be with modest lowering and using the stock LCA. You can only use the lowest setting with the stock LCA. Also hangs up on my local car wash .

 

[09AlloyGT]

Im glad you guys have come out and told your stories as well as information. Thanks alot for the input...

And yes Johnboy I am doing Vogelwegh also, The damn thing sat in B-more for a month before thinking of moving. How many miles were on your girl when it showed up? Im trying to guess if it will have way too many or just right.

 

[2kanchoo]

BMR has two holes, CHE just one. With BMR, the drop is lower than it needs to be with modest lowering and using the stock LCA. You can only use the lowest setting with the stock LCA. Also hangs up on my local car wash .

Steeda's are really beefy and have 3 holes.

 

[SloSVO]

Steeda's are really beefy and have 3 holes.

but even the steedas would be affected by the stock arm right.. as far as being able to use them all?