Vapour Trails
The Renaissance Man
I received my cooling ducts recently, my question is...has anyone set them up to work with the stock lower grill piece? I'm not crazy about spending $250 for the grill they sell to work into concert with the ducts.
I received my cooling ducts recently, my question is...has anyone set them up to work with the stock lower grill piece? I'm not crazy about spending $250 for the grill they sell to work into concert with the ducts.
I read on American Muscle the Agent 47 lower grille is now Discontinued, so you may want to pick one up soon to work with your Agent 47 cooling ducts if it turns out you can't modify the OEM lower grille to work with them. Good luck.
For what its worth, I installed both the Agent 47 brake cooling ducts with the lower grille and am very happy with both how it looks and how it actually performs, but I agree - its pricey. Another option is to sell the cooling ducts and look at something like the Steeda Brake Cooling Kit #555-6019 (Includes 555-6016 & 555-6013 ) for the Complete Kit GT '05-'09 for $279.95 total. Looks like it uses the OEM grille.
If you don't mind playing with fiberglass (it's easy), then it shouldn't be hard at all to make the stock grille work.
-j
I'm not sure if it's on this forum or another, but I've seen speaker port used in the lower grill that looked pretty well considering. I actually did it to an extra grill I have at home, don't have any pictures of it handy though unfortunately.
This was VERY clean. Do you have more pictures of where its mounted to the brake system? Also where you routed?Easy as pie. Just one $15 box of standard automotive fiberglass kit should do it (I used epoxy resin, but it's not necessary for this application).
Best,
-j
Just put in the Quantum Motorsports kit last week...might have tried the Philostang method if I had read that first!
Thanks guys! I'm happy to be of help, and I found the old link: http://mustangforums.com/forum/s197-handling-section/508122-diy-brake-cooling-duct-fabrication.html
There are a couple of things to note:
1. I used a technique in that write-up called a "foundation mold," to define the contour of the inlet ducts opening. As I indicated above, I wouldn't do it this way again. It's far easier to just pull the OEM grill and mold directly from that. If you do this, I would also recommend that you do it before you slice off the backside. If you drip resin in the lay up, then it won't matter that way.
2. There are pics in that post, but I did it before I knew how to embed full size images in a post. So I'll see if I can edit the old DIY writeup to include better pics.
3. In the 5th post in that link I have an evaluation and price list. The evaluation stands, only now I've had the chance to test it at many track events rather than the 2 at the time. Also, so folks here know now, to duplicate the effort I calculated $120 out the door for the complete system (bumper to rotor outlet). My cost was lower (about $75), as I had many of the raw materials on hand that were required for the job.
Best,
-j
I was planning to do that after seeing SoundGuyDave's EDU on another forum, but in the end, I got lazy and said "fuck it"I used the Quantum pieces behind the front fascia and then "Dremeled" out the honeycombs to let the air through.
They don't show at all unless you look really close - adds to the Sleeper effect!