Best lug nuts...

Discussion in 'Drag Racing Tech Discussion & Timeslips' started by redfirepearlgt, Sep 6, 2016.

  1. Riptide

    Riptide Will work for Mustang.

    5,228
    12
  2. tjm73

    tjm73 of Omicron Persei 8 S197 Team Member

    8,804
    237
  3. fdjizm

    fdjizm Drag Queen

    19,161
    186
    Nice little fix courtesy of the paintball industry

    [​IMG]

    Before [​IMG]

    After
    [​IMG]

    Just enough clearance to spin freely in the hole. Love it!
     
    Racer47 likes this.
  4. 808muscle

    808muscle forum member

    4,028
    5
    I run Weld RT-S wheels and the Weld lugs and washers are complete crap. Is the McGard 63004 the best option?
    McGard 63004 Chrome 1/2-20 Drag Racing XL Lug Nuts
    https://www.ebay.com/c/658917208


     
  5. fdjizm

    fdjizm Drag Queen

    19,161
    186
    Yes those are the good ones, little skinny but should work fine as opposed to the other lugs made of play-dough.
    I didn't like the gap between the lug and the wheel so I made some spacers.
     
    808muscle likes this.
  6. 808muscle

    808muscle forum member

    4,028
    5

    Thanks dude.....I'll see if I can make some of those spacers too.
     
  7. fdjizm

    fdjizm Drag Queen

    19,161
    186
  8. 08MustangDude

    08MustangDude Resident Fuktard

    308
    31
    ALL cars that have the lugs with the metal jackets/covers suffer the same fate.
    My former Charger, same deal, but the driver sides always swell up first. The
    heat causes them to swell. Air tools scar them... Even with the Mustang, the
    driver side ones were swelled up. Then the rust keeps them swelled up.. I needed
    to go up to 20mm to get them off the driver side; same with my Charger, +1mm
    to get them off when I had it. I did replace all the Charger ones with nice SOLID
    chrome lugs... I sold the car, they're still on, and not rusted...

    The best replacements are SOLID lugs, no metal jacket/cover. I just used a set from a
    2013 Viper, I got them for free, so why not... I did buy solid ones prior, but they rusted,
    and looked bad...

    Thing is, the good ones cost $5-$9 a lug, for the nice SOLID ones. Don't get the cheap
    ass eBay $24.00 set, they will rust within 5 months. The chrome plating came off
    easily. I was going to evap-o-rust them all, and paint them black, but for the work,
    wasn't worth it. They were solid lugs, bad quality. I was given some other lugs that fit,
    then given a complete set of '13 Viper lugs, and used those. I have a good 12-15 extra
    ones too.
     
  9. fdjizm

    fdjizm Drag Queen

    19,161
    186
    What lug nuts cost $5-$9 each? I have to see these.
    Are they made out of titanium? lol
     
  10. 08MustangDude

    08MustangDude Resident Fuktard

    308
    31
    Yeah, no kidding.. Someone I know that works in a shop, if they were
    to replace them, they want $5.50 each. The dude keeps asking me if
    I want lug-nuts, and I keep saying; "Not at $5.00 a piece dude!" Yeah,
    he thinks his are made of gold..

    McGard Chrome or Black Chrome - $9.29
    McGard Cheapie - ~$3.00
    Dorman $1.99 - $7.99, various makes and metals, and quality.

    I am saying GOOD SOLID lugs that are going to last, are going to be a little pricey.
    I don't want the ones with the metal jackets, and I don't want ones that are
    going to peal or rust...
     
  11. Pentalab

    Pentalab forum member

    2,925
    153
    Are you folks using..... 'never seize' on the studs ? I do, and it makes lug removal a snap. You also don't require as much torque. 80- 90 ft lbs is ample.

    If you look at any fastener specs, you will see both a ...'dry' and also a ..'wet' tq rating. ( wet is lubricated). The wet tq rating is tp 60-70% of the dry rating. You are not after tq per se.... but tightness, between 2 x surfaces.
     
  12. 08MustangDude

    08MustangDude Resident Fuktard

    308
    31
    I never have galling or rust issues, and you WILL NOT if you always tighten
    them to spec. The reason they get stuck on, is when tire shops, or a local
    shop air-guns them on. I have never, EVER had a lug-nut I could not get
    off. When I get my car back from the shop, I will loosen them, and then
    torque them to spec. Damage to the casing of the lug is also done when
    they're on too tight and the casing sheers, or strips out. This stuff won't
    happen if they torqued on right from the beginning. Air guns can severely
    over-torque them. If any lube was used, well, they're WAY over torqued
    with an air tool.

    You only have rusted on issues with steel rim at the ball or acorn seat, not
    with alloy or aluminum. In fact, with those, once you torque and run it 100
    miles, you need to retorque.

    80-90 ft-lbs WET is the same as 100 dry, because you still over-torqued
    at ~90 wet. You allow for up to 15% over torque when "wet." You're
    just under torquing to account for the lubrication. If you were to torque
    to 100 wet, you're at 110 or 115. SO, yeah, 80-90 wet will be ~98 dry.

    Seriously, all you need do is tighten to factory spec, and they should never get
    stuck, unless they're steel rims without any covers. Or, simply replace the
    jacketed lugs with sold ones, and still don't over torque.

    In the case of the casings expanding, you only need to upsize the socket,
    as I did. They're 19mm, I needed 20mm to get the driver side off. They
    were not king-konged on either, they came right off, and I replaced them.
    If the casing falls apart or breaks, then you hammer on a socket that
    fits and take them off, you will be replacing them anyway. Once the
    lug is lose, you can knock the socket off by hitting it side to side, then
    repeat on the other damaged lugs. Don't over think it, the simple solutions
    are usually the ones that work.
     
    AndrewNagle likes this.
  13. Pentalab

    Pentalab forum member

    2,925
    153
    If you get a flat tire...and try and use the rinky dink lug wrench on most cars..have fun....esp after some 16 yr old with his airgun has gone to town on em. That happened to a buddy at work....who was on a hunting trip, in the middle of nowhere... in late fall..with his pickup.

    You are correct though, re-trq em to your own specs. I have had what appears to be minor surface rust or crud build up on the threads of the studs...hence the use of never seize. I use never seize on SS fasteners for other applications, so have loads of it in the shop.

    I had a few of the oem acorn lug nuts go awry on my 2010 stang. Finally got pissed off with em, and replaced all 20 with quality nuts. On long rd trips, I take the 2' long tq wrench...+ 1-2 spare nuts.

    I did have one of the oem nuts on my 2011 Fusion separate....pita. Piss poor quality.
     
  14. 08MustangDude

    08MustangDude Resident Fuktard

    308
    31
    I keep a 1/2" drive pry-bar and socket instead of a lug-wrench. Though my factory
    tire iron is almost as long. I also have a 12V Kawasaki electric impact in my primary
    work vehicle, and plug kit. Man, that makes changing to the spare so easy and fast.
    Then I can stop at a sheetz, plug the original tire, and get it back on.

    Pry-bar also makes for a nice billy-club...