Best way to adjust camber?

[fiverivers]

I have roush stage 3 suspension and wanted to know Which would be the best way to adjust camber. I was thinking of either camber bolts or Camber Adjusting Kit by Steeda. Any personal experiences with any of these items or any pros and cons would help. I also though about getting strut top camber kit but didn't want to weld.

 

[Kaldar142]

Camber plates IMO.

Much easier to adjust, and you can adjust it on the fly for street / track settings.

Not to mention a lot of times camber bolts will slip.

I did a test with some paint to see if the bolts move under hard cornering and indeed they did, not alot but enough to make me want camber plates.

 

[Vapour Trails]

Camber plates IMO.

Much easier to adjust, and you can adjust it on the fly for street / track settings.

I used to think that too, but the toe will also change and a bad toe setting will kill the tires faster than anything.

As for my setup, I have steeda adjustable strut mounts which allow for a wide range of camber adjustments without messing with bolts.

 

[bigwilly43729]

How do you guys check what the settings are? I have adjustable strut mount plates as well, but there are no marks or anything to help me out.

 

[Kaldar142]

I used to think that too, but the toe will also change and a bad toe setting will kill the tires faster than anything.

As for my setup, I have steeda adjustable strut mounts which allow for a wide range of camber adjustments without messing with bolts.

Hmmm... I dunno man

I sat on the alignment rack at work for 2 hours toying around with my settings and the toe didn't move much, if at all.

I was only moving between -2.0 and -2.5 though

 

[fiverivers]

I though toe was adjustable from the factory.

 

[SoundGuyDave]

The toe is adjustable, but they're speaking of toe change due to camber change. In theory, the toe is dependent on the camber angle, but the reality is that with the geometry of the stock-ish front end, the actual change in toe is so minimal that you can essentially discount it completely.

Trust, but verify: With the camber plates full outboard, set (or measure) the toe angle, and then dump the plates inboard. Settle the suspension and re-measure. with the old-school string method, the difference on my car wasn't enough to even mess with. This was verified on a Hunter alignment rack, as well...

For "presetting" street and track camber angles, a sharpie is your best friend. Scribe two lines on the top of the tower, and when the strut shaft is centered on the outside line, you're at the street angle, and on the inside line, you're on the track angle. You COULD scribe a line every 1/4 degree if you wanted to be snarky, but I wouldn't bother.

 

[Vapour Trails]

The toe is adjustable, but they're speaking of toe change due to camber change. In theory, the toe is dependent on the camber angle, but the reality is that with the geometry of the stock-ish front end, the actual change in toe is so minimal that you can essentially discount it completely.

That's good to know.

 

[SoundGuyDave]

Now don't go quoting me out of context!! Notice that I did say "stock-ish". If you really slam the car, or start working with anti-dive angles, all that can change... Also, as I said, "trust, but verify." It'll only cost you maybe $75 to have your alignment done twice, with verifiable, repeatable numbers, so you can see exactly how much toe change there is, or isn't. FWIW, though, as you go more negative in camber, you pick up toe out, which for the track is a good thing.

 

[lonebear]

Check out the camber plates from Maximum Motorsports.

 

[fiverivers]

anyone else use the camber plates(from steeda) on track or any other experiences.

 

[Kaldar142]

Steeda parts are very high quality, you would be fine with those if you went that route.

 

[GIG4FUN]

Check out the camber plates from Maximum Motorsports.

got them and I recommend them. There's a lot of adjustment available.

 

[GIG4FUN]

found a S197 pdf! the new bolts recommended (and now sold) are fine threaded and take 166 ft.lb.s torque.

204-00-1 Suspension System — General Information 204-00-1
GENERAL PROCEDURES
Camber Adjustment — Front​

1.

NOTE: If camber adjustment is necessary to

resolve a vehicle alignment issue, then slotting
the strut at the lower mounting plate and
installing cam bolts is an acceptable method.
This procedure should not be routinely
performed with all alignments and only after
all other possible sources have been inspected
and corrected as necessary.
Remove the strut and spring assembly. For
additional information, refer to Section 204-01.
3. Install the strut and spring assembly using cam
2. Using a suitable grinding tool, enlarge the bolts (4R33-2B236-AA) and new nuts in place
strut-to-wheel spindle lower mounting holes as of the regular strut-to-wheel spindle bolts and
indicated by the etchings in the strut lower flag nuts. For additional information, refer to
mount. Section 204-01.
​

​

• ​

​

Do not enlarge the holes any more than • Do not tighten the cam bolts until the

indicated by the etchings on the strut mount. alignment has been corrected.
​

​

• ​

​

Remove any burrs.

4. Using the cam bolts, adjust the front camber
​

​

• ​

​

Clean and paint any exposed metal. until it is within the correct specifications.

​

​

• ​

​

Tighten the nuts to 200 Nm (148 lb-ft).
Copyright ã



​

 

[etnoats]

I've had the camber bolts slip also. Will be installing d specs and the J&M camber plates this weekend. Haven't gone to the track wit the car, but push it pretty hard on mountain road cruises quite often.