Boaisy's Thread

[Boaisy]

I ordered the side splitters when I ordered the driveshaft loops, I just didn't put them on until this weekend. Pretty cool how a slab of plastic makes it look better. I'll also try to post pictures of the other mods I have put on whenever I get around to it. I mainly autocross this car as well as DD it, and the current mods are in my signature. Probably one of the most noticeable mods (other than the mufflers) are the Whiteline sway bars. They made a night and day difference on the driving both street and track.

EDIT:
Future Mod List

Whiteline Watts link - Done
GC Coilovers or Vorshlag Bilstein kit (and other related suspension parts)
EATON Truetrac - Done
Forgestar/Apex Wheels and tires
RTR Front and Rear Valence with Splitters
Brake Ducts
Steeda Wing or CS/LS Spoiler
O/R H-pipe - Done
Steeda rear X-Brace
Spec clutch kit
Vortech Black system

"Up in the Air List"

Shaker hood
Mach 1 decals setup

 

[GallopingFord]

Looking good. What other plans do you have for it?

 

[Boaisy]

The remaining build list until March is:

Watts link
Steeda Ultralite + Koni Sports
T2R Differential
Nurburgring Wheels and tires

For the exterior, I want to finish it off with the RTR front and rear Splitter/Valences, but it isn't that high in the list atm. Still debating on a Shaker hood and whether to get a Steeda Wing or a CS/LS spoiler. I also wanted to do a "Mach 1" kind of decal setup, but that I have not made a final decision on yet. I still have some black plasti-dip that I plan on using on the faux cap (chrome area only) and possibly the 5.0 badges (leaving the red dot of course).

 

[dee99gt]

Looks good and I like the side splitters.

 

[TGR96]

So far so good! Sounds like you've got yourself a great build list started. Looking forward to seeing how the car progresses.

 

[Boaisy]

So this week I have a EATON Truetrac and Whiteline Watts Link coming in (apparently came to the house today, but won't find out until midnight). Going to get the local race shop to work on it, and then I'll be grabbing a new set of DD tires hopefully before the 8th which is the first NASA Autocross of the year.

 

[Boaisy]

Putting this link here for reference reasons: http://www.s197forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=110162

Took my car into Dynospeed today to get the differential, gears, and watts link installed. Called them about an hour ago to get an update, and they said they were just starting on the watts link. He is also going to make sure the pinion angle is correct too.

It seems like it is a good thing I bought a new set of gears because he said the current ones are trashed. He said chunks are out of it. I don't know if it was from the previous owner, or my driving (we both drove the crap out of it). I tried to be easy on any launches. I'll see if I can get pictures if I am able to pick it up today. He also said the differential was messed up a bit as well (I knew that).

Anyways, so far I am happy with Dynospeed and the staff. They seem very willing to help, and they know what I am asking of them to do. Even when I dropped the car off, they asked if there was anything else they could work on while I had them doing this. Normally most shops just take whatever you tell them they need to look at, and jump straight to work.

Past two times I've asked my Ford shop to check the pinion angle, they either A.) didn't know wtf it meant, or B.) didn't have the tools to do it. They are great for everything else, but apparently pinion angle crosses the line :/. With Dynospeed, when I mentioned the pinion angle, they said, "Sure, what do you want it at?" Told him what I do, that most people say they set it around -2, and he even said most people who road race Mustangs around here do about the same.

If all works out, I'll probably have them put on the O/R H-pipe and put their tune on it next month. My next goal right now is tires because the current ones are on the edge.

Hopefully I will have some pictures later.

 

[BMR Tech]

Nice!!!

I plan to keep an eye on the thread. Look forward to it!

 

[Boaisy]

Correction on the gear issue, it was the spider gears in the differential that were chipped. The ring gear he said was fine, and the pinion gear was having a bit of wear on it. Still, Watts Link and new diff. are in, and now I am at work. Since I don't have anything to do tomorrow, I'm going to be spending a bit of the day tomorrow with the break-in process.

Onto the pictures:

Spider gear:

Watts Link installed:

and since it was up on the rack, decided to photograph the DSS Driveshaft and the BMR braces:

I had to take a detour after leaving the shop due to traffic. It ended up being a 15 mile trip. That isn't going to screw up the break-in is it? It'll be sitting until midnight, and then I have to drive ~40 miles home (oh joy).

Dynospeed was also commenting how they liked the look of Whiteline watts. They have done a couple of differential based watts links, but they had never seen the Whiteline one before.

 

[Boaisy]

So after a few days with the new diff and watts link, all I can say is WOW. The car definitely feels tightened up in the rear, and the way it hugs the corners is very very fun. I'm definitely getting smiles per gallon out of the car right now. I can only wonder how much new shocks/springs will help even more.

The next autocross coming up is March 8th and 9th at Memphis International Raceway. That will be the first "true" test of the new setup. I'm getting new tires next week. Going with the newer Hankook Ventus S1 noble2 that came out toward the end of last year. So far, the ratings are looking better than the Bridgestone PP's I have now (which aren't bad tires either). Hopefully I'll be able to finally get the track set of tires and wheels this summer. I'm at least going to work my ass off to get it done this year as replacing DD tires yearly gets a little annoying.

Late March, since I'll be having monster overtime hours, I'll be getting the H pipe replaced with a Lethal Performance O/R H-pipe, and having Dynospeed to do a tune on it. They had recommended LP even though I had already planned on doing it.

The "whirring" noise overall has gotten a lot better. It is still there, but very faint. It is quiet enough that it does not bother me, and now the exhaust leak is louder than it. A a light scratching noise has come up though since the new setup, and it sounds like it is coming from the front. It happens when I am slowing down, either with the braking or letting the transmission slow the car down. I guess you can say the noise is probably happening when weight is transferred towards the front. I know some people mentioned that the driveshaft loops could scrape the driveshaft, so I might look and see if that is what is happening.

 

[UltraKla$$ic]

That Watts setup is sweet!!!!

Nice!!!

 

[Boaisy]

Finally got the new tires on this week, and the writing on the tread should make Darren jealous of how fresh these are:

As far as the noise, I could not check it this past weekend because of the weather. Since I'll most likely be working tomorrow, I won't be running the autocross this weekend until Sunday. So I guess that gives me time tomorrow to check out the noise issue when I get home from work.

 

[Boaisy]

Ran in the first autocross of the year at MIR. The Watts Link/Truetrac combo made a hell of a difference. I pretty much had to relearn the car. Areas that I was normally running 3rd gear in, I was actually running in 4th because of the better entry/exits in the various corners.

The Hankooks weren't too bad, but for autocross, I liked the Bridgestones better. I think they are too hard of a compound (Bridgestone was 400 vs. the Hankook 500). It wasn't sliding or anything, but the car just felt like it wasn't gripping as much as it used to when I had the Bridgestones. I did lower the pressure on them about 5 psi per wheel (I guess the tire shop had them set at 40 when I usually run 35), and it still would chirp a bit on the tight corners. The Hankooks are still a great street tire. They cut through water puddles as if they weren't even there. Definitely going to work on that other wheel/tire set this month.

So next couple of things to tackle:

-O/R H-pipe to replace the leaking stock H-Pipe and retune it with Dynospeed.
-18x10 wheels, and track tires to go with it.

Hopefully will have all of this done by the end of the month.


EDIT:
This isn't me, but this is one of my friends running the course in his Civic. Pretty much gives an idea of how the course was setup.

 

[speedfreak1000]

looks good, wish I could find a set of side splitters for my 2006 that didnt cost a fortune just to match the cheap one I put in the front.

 

[Boaisy]

Yep. These splitters give it a bit of a lowered look with lowering the car. When I finish it up with the RTR front and rear, it should look pretty bad ass.

I ordered the O/R H-pipe this week, and I am scheduled with Dynospeed to have it installed and car re-tuned on the 28th. I'm excited to see how much of a difference this will make, especially since I have never had my car on the dyno, I would like to see what it is putting down.

 

[Boaisy]

So last weekend, I jacked the rear end up onto stands under the tubes to see if the differential would make the noise that I have been hearing. Had my dad listen for it as well. Got it up to 40 mph, nothing. 50 mph, still nothing. Tried even 80 mph, and no noise at all.

We drove it on the road a bit, and the noise finally presented itself. My dad went through a few troubleshooting processes, and couldn't really pinpoint it. I had explained to him the difference between the stock and the Truetrac, and even showed him the "blow-up" video Eaton has on how it works. He is thinking that the noise, since it sounds like it is rapidly rotating, could be coming from the planetary gears when they aren't loaded. This noise only happens when the clutch pedal is in, any gear selected (even neutral), and the noise will stop if you start releasing the clutch in a forward or reverse gear.

I did some looking around at various Mustang forums, and most of them complain that no matter what you do, these Truetracs will always have some kind of noise from them, and there are a lucky few with quiet Truetracs. I am hoping that is the case. The noise isn't that bothersome, and I only hear it when the radio is off. I just want to be sure it isn't a unit that may blow up on me a few runs from now.

Thankfully, I will be taking my car to Dynospeed tomorrow to put on the Lethal Performance (Kooks) O/R H-Pipe, and getting a new tune as well. Since they had put the differential in, I'll check with them to make sure everything is normal back there. I'll also see about recording some video with the O/R H-pipe on when it is on the dyno, and I'm sure they will share before and after results (these guys seem to be all about squeezing all the hp possible).

For grins, I downloaded an Android app that uses the microphone on the smartphone to measure the dB rating, and from about a foot away from the exhaust, it emits between 75-80 at idle. With my phone, the hardware limitation seems to be 90 dB (the developer said most Motorolla's have limits of 90-100 dB). I'll take some readings after the switch just to give an idea.

Power may go out here soon as there is a windy thunderstorm rolling through, so this is all I'm going to post for now. May update a few things later.

 

[Boaisy]

An update before I can post videos and pictures, Friday I had taken the car in to get the O/R H-Pipe installed and the car retuned. The shop had a little trouble in getting the SCT TSX tuner that I had, so they could only get it "85%" tuned. They let me have the car back for the weekend since it was drive-able, but it just wasn't at 100% potential.

The exhaust is a bit loud past 2,000 RPM, but I think it is manageable. I have video of the final dyno run, and when the tuner was doing an after dyno test drive that I will upload tomorrow when I am at home. When you go WOT with this setup, it screams but it just sounds awesome. We had guys from the audio store next door coming out of the shop just to see what was making the noise (this was during the "test drive"). Was getting a ton of compliments, and I had not driven it yet after it was fully tuned. The shop was begging me to get some headers put on ASAP, but I may stick with this setup for about a year or two.

As for the numbers, the final numbers came out to about 410 HP/377 TQ (not entirely sure since the charts are not in front of me at the moment) at the wheels. They did all of the pulls in 4th gear, even though I told them 5th was the 1:1 gear (4th is 1:1.32?). Since they mostly do GMs, they didn't think I was telling the truth until I had one of the guys look it up. They said majority of the gain between the BAMA tune and the dyno tune was in TQ. HP didn't change that much.

When I wake up tomorrow, I'll post the Dyno sheets and the videos. Really anxious for the Autocross next month (weekend of the 12th) because no one knows what I have in store .

 

[Boaisy]

Here is the video (probably still processing at time of post):



The first shot is shaky because I didn't realize that the Image Stabilizer was off, and my hands do shake a bit while holding cameras. The second shot I had turned it on.

On to the dyno sheets:

This one has run #8 instead of #9, but not a huge difference between those two. Run #3 was the first full run that they had done on the BAMA tune with the minor tweak to account for the O2 Sensor/loss of cats (meow). Both Images you will see the differences until about 5,750 RPM where both BAMA and the Dynospeed tunes are the same. Dynospeed pretty much increased the lower end values.

The reason why the first run dips off is because they like to make 1 or 2 short pulls to make sure the vehicle is mechanically sound for full dyno pulls. However, this second image shows the final pull/tune that is in the vehicle.

 

[Boaisy]

So changed out the fluid in the differential since it hasn't been changed after the Eaton and gears were put in. Draining it was easy with the watts link, but it was the filling part that I was having trouble with. Ended up going to AutoZone and getting the $5 filler tube with the bucket attached to it. That helped things run a little more smoothly, but definitely not the best solution. I had at least try something so I could drive to work. Also I can still smell the crap on my hands even after I showered and washed my hands like crazy. Messy!

Next time, I will definitely invest in some sort of pump. I'm sure I still got enough fluid in because I was down to maybe the last tenth of the 3rd bottle. No strange noises aside from the noises that were already present with the current setup.

I'm waiting on a Bob's catch can which, according to UPS, will be here next Monday. I was hoping to have it before the Autocross this weekend. I also ordered a Barton Two-Post and a GT Dead Plate today. I guess after all of these bigger mods, it is time to do something easier .

Reason I am going from the Barton single to the two post is that I noticed in the last autocross that I would be locked out of gates on some of my "high load" turns. Once the car settled (unloaded), I could kind of feel the gates line back up, and I was able to shift where I needed to. According to the Barton video, the extra support eliminates any twisting, but the way the extra bracket is mounted still allows the shifter to move forward and backward during hard launches/braking which keeps the shift gates lined up. Hopefully this will prevent the gate block that I have been getting even with the single post.

 

[nasty281]

An update before I can post videos and pictures, Friday I had taken the car in to get the O/R H-Pipe installed and the car retuned. The shop had a little trouble in getting the SCT TSX tuner that I had, so they could only get it "85%" tuned. They let me have the car back for the weekend since it was drive-able, but it just wasn't at 100% potential.

The exhaust is a bit loud past 2,000 RPM, but I think it is manageable. I have video of the final dyno run, and when the tuner was doing an after dyno test drive that I will upload tomorrow when I am at home. When you go WOT with this setup, it screams but it just sounds awesome. We had guys from the audio store next door coming out of the shop just to see what was making the noise (this was during the "test drive"). Was getting a ton of compliments, and I had not driven it yet after it was fully tuned. The shop was begging me to get some headers put on ASAP, but I may stick with this setup for about a year or two.

As for the numbers, the final numbers came out to about 410 HP/377 TQ (not entirely sure since the charts are not in front of me at the moment) at the wheels. They did all of the pulls in 4th gear, even though I told them 5th was the 1:1 gear (4th is 1:1.32?). Since they mostly do GMs, they didn't think I was telling the truth until I had one of the guys look it up. They said majority of the gain between the BAMA tune and the dyno tune was in TQ. HP didn't change that much.

When I wake up tomorrow, I'll post the Dyno sheets and the videos. Really anxious for the Autocross next month (weekend of the 12th) because no one knows what I have in store .

Thats why im not gonna let them dumb fucks tune my car. Too damn stupid to realize 5th is the 1:1. Every since they merged with premier autosports they pretty much only touch chevys
and I feel they dont deal with enough mustangs to be competent