Brake bed in procedure

snake40

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I'm installing the Ford Racing Brembo kit on my 2012 California Special tomorrow.
What is the recommended bed in procedure for it?
Thanks, Mike
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Vorshlag-Fair

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Here's my race car brake bedding procedure:

  • Install new brake pads
  • Go out in my first track session and slam on the brakes a few times on the out lap
  • Race

For a street car:

  • Install new brake pads
  • Go out onto a nearby road, speed up to 60 mph and slam on the brakes a few times.
  • Drive

I don't know about all of the fancy procedures involving progressive speed stopping and cool downs and seasoning and the sacrificing of chickens. I don't do anything like this for my race tires, either, but some tire sellers have people convinced to pay extra for "tire seasoning" or some nonsense. The brake pad bedding procedure doesn't seem to make that much difference in brake pad wear with modern brake pads. Maybe it did 20-30 years ago, I don't know. They used to do some crazy stuff with brakes back then (drilled rotors, degassing, etc) that does not apply today. We track pad and rotor wear on all of our cars and it mostly comes down to how heavy is the car, how high are the speeds at the track, how abusive is the driver on brakes.

Just my $.02. I'm sure there's an expert somewhere that knows better. ;)
 

SoundGuyDave

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If you were sacrificing chickens during your bed-in process, therein lies the problem. ALL professionals KNOW that it's GOATS, not CHICKENS!!

Bedding-in the brakes is all about the desired result, not the process itself. What you want is a nice, even transfer layer of pad material onto the rotor, and the only way to do that is to get the stuff HOT. I can't bed on the street, so I simply go out for the morning warm-up session with my ducts taped closed, and drive like a maniac until I can feel the pads themselves start to fade (press the pedal hard, car slows gently), then run a cool-down, and park it. Done. If done correctly, you'll have a nice even grey/brown/purple haze on the swept surface of the rotor. Ideally, I would roll the car a few feet every 5-10 minutes during the initial cool-down, but with having an instructor's schedule, that's not always possible.

The progressive speed thing simply guarantees that you have functioning brakes (the slow speed stops), and begins to get some temp into the system, until you go to the high-speed portion (100+MPH panic-stops) which actually does the transfer. The big key is not to drag the brakes once you get the transfer done until things are cool, as that will wipe off the transfer layer. Also, on a pad-only change, there's no real need to re-do the bedding, as the layer is still there on the rotor.
 
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I do all the wilwoods here at the shop in the same way, 60 to 25 until they smell terrrible and then park it and let them cool. Even with mild street compounds and my wifes daily drivers this is how I do it.

DO NOT SET THE PARKING BRAKE AFTER BED IN PRCEDURE! or after any track time for that matter.
 
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