brake flushing

[tbrock]

Flame suit on as I searched for a thread on flushing the brakes. My fluid (super blue) is over a year old and has a couple of track events on it. What is the best method to flush it out? I bleed them starting right rear, left rear, right front, left front as I was instructed by a Ford Tech. I've got GT 500 Brembo's on the front and stock calipers at the rear. Figured it is winter and a good time to flush them out. Searched the DIY thread and this thread but nada.

Thanks,

 

[tbrock]

Also when I replaced the stock rear pads and rotors I borrowed a tool from my dealer that had a "T" handle and the head of it was round with two buttons. The head fits into the piston which allows you to turn it in creating the necessary space to put the caliper and pads over the rotor. I was not having luck with the "c" clamp method. Does anyone know the part number or name of said tool? I want to get a set of track only rotors and pads for the summer and this tool would be helpful, or some suggestions on other methods for changing the rear pads out.

 

[07gtcs]

I've got what I call my Nasty-Vac, cheap $25 shop vac that I use to suck the old shit right out of the reservoir and fill with clean before bleeding the lines. That way when I start bleeding the lines its clean fluid coming in right from the start. I'm stuck in an Apt outside of the Boston area for close to another year so until then I wont have an air compressor at home to use any of the better tools.

I read a post here a long while back explaining how it was the hydraulic clutch setup contaminating the brake fluid.Its been maybe 6 months and the fluid is horrid again.I'll be swapping to a separate reservoir in the spring because I'm tired of how fast it gets nasty.

 

[SoundGuyDave]

For a full flush, get as much old fluid out of the reservoir as you can before you start, and top off with fresh. Then, start at the right rear, and just bleed, bleed, bleed, until the fluid comes out completely clear, checking the fluid level every 10 pumps or so. You should blow about 250ml of fluid until that happens. Then, move to the left rear and do the same thing. Up front, I start with the outside of the right-front caliper, and bleed through, then move to the inside. In total, it'll take you a little over a full litre of fluid to flush properly.

The C-clamp won't work on the rears, because you need to screw the piston onto the shaft inside the caliper. Go to NAPA, Autozone, etc., and they should have some form of tool. Lisle makes a simple one, a cube with different nub setups on each face that you can compress with a c-clamp and turn with a set of Channellocks. Or, if you're going to do it often enough, find a tool truck (Snap-On, Mac, Matco) and buy a rear brake caliper service kit.

 

[tbrock]

For a full flush, get as much old fluid out of the reservoir as you can before you start, and top off with fresh. Then, start at the right rear, and just bleed, bleed, bleed, until the fluid comes out completely clear, checking the fluid level every 10 pumps or so. You should blow about 250ml of fluid until that happens. Then, move to the left rear and do the same thing. Up front, I start with the outside of the right-front caliper, and bleed through, then move to the inside. In total, it'll take you a little over a full litre of fluid to flush properly.

The C-clamp won't work on the rears, because you need to screw the piston onto the shaft inside the caliper. Go to NAPA, Autozone, etc., and they should have some form of tool. Lisle makes a simple one, a cube with different nub setups on each face that you can compress with a c-clamp and turn with a set of Channellocks. Or, if you're going to do it often enough, find a tool truck (Snap-On, Mac, Matco) and buy a rear brake caliper service kit.

Thanks that is what I thought but you confirmed it. Looks like my 10 and 12 year old are going to get some garage time with dad.

 

[SoundGuyDave]

I read a post here a long while back explaining how it was the hydraulic clutch setup contaminating the brake fluid.Its been maybe 6 months and the fluid is horrid again.I'll be swapping to a separate reservoir in the spring because I'm tired of how fast it gets nasty.

Honestly, I don't know about that... The hydraulic slave cylinder is really no different than a brake caliper in terms of function, so there really isn't that much fluid migration. Heat and moisture are the enemies of brake fluid, and if you run racing fluids, they are AGGRESSIVELY hygroscopic, soaking up the moisture in the air like a sponge. I use Motul RBF600 and it's pretty well at the end of it's service life after six months. There's a reason it comes in nitrogen-filled sealed bottles...

 

[07gtcs]

Also when I replaced the stock rear pads and rotors I borrowed a tool from my dealer that had a "T" handle and the head of it was round with two buttons. The head fits into the piston which allows you to turn it in creating the necessary space to put the caliper and pads over the rotor. I was not having luck with the "c" clamp method. Does anyone know the part number or name of said tool? I want to get a set of track only rotors and pads for the summer and this tool would be helpful, or some suggestions on other methods for changing the rear pads out.

Yea you can NOT push the rear Calipers back in, it has to be spun. The E-brake is integrated internally. IDK about the part number for the OE tool but you can get a cheap master set for like 60 bucks on ebay. In a bind there is a cheap 5 dollar tool most parts stores carry that will fit on a 3/8 extension. Be prepared though, the widest tabs on the tool are still too close together and need to be shaved to fit our calipers.

 

[DUFUS]

Tools I've used with good results:
http://www.motiveproducts.com/
http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=brake+caliper+tool

 

[07gtcs]

Honestly, I don't know about that... The hydraulic slave cylinder is really no different than a brake caliper in terms of function, so there really isn't that much fluid migration. Heat and moisture are the enemies of brake fluid, and if you run racing fluids, they are AGGRESSIVELY hygroscopic, soaking up the moisture in the air like a sponge. I use Motul RBF600 and it's pretty well at the end of it's service life after six months. There's a reason it comes in nitrogen-filled sealed bottles...

Its what I thought at first. After looking at the amount of shit in the system I gave the theory more credit.

Similar setup in another car where the same "No....really" principal would apply.

http://www.s197forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=21998&highlight=clutch+dust

 

[2008 V6]

I use a Motive power bleeder & flush between ATE Blue & Amber for all my cars many years now - ATE not too expensive if you look around. Very quick & easy to see if system is completely flushed - Takes only 1 person to do the job. Other fluids have higher temp rating but I haven’t had a problem yet if flushed regularly after abuse.

 

[jayel579]

Tools I've used with good results:
http://www.motiveproducts.com/
http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=brake+caliper+tool

"Ho Chi Minh" Freight FTW!!

Good idea to have both of these to flush your brakes by yourself.

 

[pcdrj]

Tools I've used with good results:
http://www.motiveproducts.com/
http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=brake+caliper+tool

Exactly what I use. Easy one man job.

 

[DUFUS]

I should add that I use the Motive only for air pressure, I don't fill it with the brake fluid. That seems as though it would be wasteful and potentially messy.

 

[2008 V6]

I should add that I use the Motive only for air pressure, I don't fill it with the brake fluid. That seems as though it would be wasteful and potentially messy.

Not messy at all & easily cleaned with denatured alcohol. Just run all the fluid out of the Power Bleeder into the reservoir to lower the reservoir’s level. Capture clean flushed fluid into a container connected to caliper & re-use. Remember the fluid has & is now exposed to air so it will start to absorb some water. Discard if not used in a relatively timely manner.
Forgot to mention that ATE blue will discolor plastic fluid reservoirs on some pre 80s cars if left in for extended periods of time
Forgot to add - Power Bleeder can be tipped sideways to induce air into the reservior to lower the fluid level also.

 

[HitandRunDriver]

I use a motive bleeder as well

 

[tbrock]

Good stuff

 

[Lgs SGT]

Tools I've used with good results:
http://www.motiveproducts.com/
http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=brake+caliper+tool

Is this the model you are using?
http://motiveproducts.3dcartstores.com/0107-FordImport-Three-Prong-Bleeder-_p_117.html

Already have the HF brake caliper tool which works great

Thanks

 

[DUFUS]

Go with this one:
http://motiveproducts.3dcartstores....e-Mustang-3-Tab-Power-Bleeder-Kit-_p_104.html
includes aluminum adapter and two gaskets.

 

[MyGG]

I found that you can just use a pair of needle nose pliers to spin the piston back into the caliper. Worked on the rears of my wife's Mazda at least after breaking a c-clamp trying to push it back in. Don't know if they're exactly the same, but should work.