Broken Bolt Removal

MrClean

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Ok, so I was adjusting the gap between the fenders and the hood, after the new hood install, and the pressure regulator on the compressor crept up on me, and when I retightened the bolts that keep the driver-side wheel fender in place, I snapped the one that is 2nd closest to the A-pillar. The screw part is still in there, the head broke off.
What is the tool that I use? I remember there being a tool whereby you drill into the broken bolt, then insert a prong and back it out?
Thanks...I feel like such an idiot!!
 

05stroker

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Ok, so I was adjusting the gap between the fenders and the hood, after the new hood install, and the pressure regulator on the compressor crept up on me, and when I retightened the bolts that keep the driver-side wheel fender in place, I snapped the one that is 2nd closest to the A-pillar. The screw part is still in there, the head broke off.
What is the tool that I use? I remember there being a tool whereby you drill into the broken bolt, then insert a prong and back it out?
Thanks...I feel like such an idiot!!
Its called an extractor . A tap is what you need to rethread if you damage the threads .
 

MrClean

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Ok, bought the left-hand drill bits, and the extractor. Drilled with the smallest drill bit, and got a big enough hole, then inserted the smallest extractor.....and started turning.....and it broke. I guess the metal is very hard so as to bite into the already hard bolt metal, but the trade-off is that it's also very brittle (sp?).
Sooo, I tried the next size up drill bit and was making some headway, and..... it snapped (also brittle).
Soooo, there was a jagged piece of the broken bolt sticking up, so I used a center punch and tried to "tap" it out with slight taps from a hammer, but it too snapped. :wtf:
Now what do I do? The piece of vanadium steel extractor is still in there...I guess it's back to the body shop to have them drill it our and re-tap the nut that it welded to the sheet metal?
On the flip side, it is one of four bolts on the top of the wheel fender, and it isn't structural in nature.....
 
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cyazo6

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I am not saying to do this, obviously the paint is a huge concern. When the broken bolt is somewhere besides near the paint you can take a nut that just fits over the broken bolt and weld the nut to the bolt, even if the bolt broke off flush. Then you use the nut to back the broken bolt out.
 

MrClean

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That makes sense, although like you said, I guess it would have to be a real quick weld so as not to heat up the surrounding area and burn the paint.
 

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Uh you have a peice sticking up? Did you try vise grips?

When i break a bolt off i usually 90% of the time am able to get it with just a center punch and a ball peen hammer. If not, i use an ease out. If i have to do the frankenstein method i just drill out the whole thing and retap it.
 

MrClean

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No, there's no piece sticking up..it's flush.
Drilling it out is probably where I have to go....but I'm so ham-fisted when it comes to these things...that's why I usually have a pro do it...
I'm going to visit Strictly Pro tomorrow...let's see what he recommends or does...
 

Dread53

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Pull out the inner liner and use vise grips on the part of the bolt sticking out underneath. If it broke off flush you should be able to just screw it out the bottom. The inner fenders are just held in with the plastic retainers.
 

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Pull out the inner liner and use vise grips on the part of the bolt sticking out underneath. If it broke off flush you should be able to just screw it out the bottom. The inner fenders are just held in with the plastic retainers.

if thats the case thats a good idea. didnt think of that.

good luck at any rate, broken bolts are a pita.
 

blackgtrag

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DRILL it over as high as you can go and use the proper extractor

(the hammer in type) and if that dont work weld a bolt onto it
 
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