bump steer kit issue

[Dante]

There is a popping noise coming from the front end when I turn left or right, I've installed an Eibach pro kit plus, shocks springs sway bars struts ect, along with J&M strut mounts and BMR control arms panhard bar and brace out back with their control arm relocation brackets.

But after I had the Dealership install my Shelby bump steer kit (I know it's made by scott drake with a Shelby logo) there has been a popping noise when I turn. the driver side seems to be the worse side for this, the driver side also is installed with the bearing on an angle. it's not horizontal like you would install a tie rod. it's on about a 70degree angle.

I want to know if this is what is causing the noise before I go to the dealership and raise hell, I don't know how much damage this could have done to the rods themselves and Shelby takes over a week to send new ones.

I also have adjustable spherical sway bar end links which are adjusted to the same length and the noise happens at 15mph and slower. So I don't think it's really enough to put any stress on the sway bar links.

 

[SoundGuyDave]

Generally speaking, the popping you're describing is caused by strut mounts or a loose swaybar endlink.

THAT SAID, can you give a little more detail about the "70* angle" you mentioned? Are the stack lengths (between the steering arm on the knuckle and the top of the spherical on the tie rod) identical on both sides? At rest, does the tie rod appear to be parallel to the lower control arm? Did the installer actually SET bump-steer, or just slap on the parts? The only way that a spherical tie-rod end could make that popping noise would be A) the shaft connecting the rod end to the knuckle is loose, or B) the installation was improper, and there's so much angle that the rod-end is binding. If it were B), most likely you'll see distortion on the race surrounding the ball of the Heim joint. Also, double-check that ALL the hardware on the swaybar end-links is tight... Cross-shaft, jam nuts, and that the Heim joints themselves are "clocked" properly. With a load on the suspension (car sitting normally), you should be able to spin the body of the end-link back and forth by hand on both sides...