Cam degreeing questions.

[teeje]

Hey all. I'm sure some of you are aware of my build so I'll spare the time. I'm using v10 delete plates and locked oem phasers with custom grind cams from Todd warren. When degreeing these cams I'm aware you need a solid lifter. I went with the Ford performance rocker and lash adjuster kit. I ended up buying one single lifter to make a solid one. Being the machine shop is doing the work, they are aware they need this and wanted me to bring one in so they can take it apart and make it solid. My question is, should I just make it solid by welding it or let the machine shop do what they need to do? I've never degreed cams on these 3vs before and there isn't much info out there besides a few threads here and there and yes, I've read them. This thread is more of a clarification post for myself so I know for future reference. The machine shop is going to check piston to valve obviously and I don't want there to be any issues. The machine shop is very reputable where I'm at. They do dragsters, funny cars and a few 1200+ hp engines for a few of my friends so I'm not questioning their ability but I just want to make sure I give them everything they need. Also, is a piston stop a necessity to have? And one more thing, I'm sure this is a dumb question but whenever I've done timing jobs on 4.6s 2vs and 3vs and the 5.4s obviously all the timing marks line up. But with me locking the cams and deleting vct entirely, are the L and R timing marks on the phasers going to be useless? I'm only asking in case I ever have to tear it down in the future. Thanks guys.

(machine shop is doing the work I don't have time due to me being a welder and heavy machinery mechanic)

Sent from my SM-N986U using Tapatalk

 

[05stroker]

They make an adjustable one for doing this, If you just weld one it will not have the correct preload.

 

[RED09GT]

I used a tack welded stock one. Other than the 2 degree adjustments on my TFS timing gear crank sprockets, there was no way to do fine adjustments to the cam timing so I wasn't worried about the correct preload on the lifter. You just need to keep it from changing during the degree process like a stock one will.

Both sides came out between 108 and 109 degrees ICL (was aiming for 108.5 and my degree wheel only went to full degree increments) so I was willing to live with that.

For me, the main purpose of checking the cam timing on an OHC engine is to make sure that both sides are timed the same so that it works as a single 8 cylinder engine-rather than 2 4 cylinder engines opposing each other.

I made my piston stop out of a hollowed out spark plug and ready rod.

You still use the R and L marks on the cam phasers/sprockets.

 

[Rick Simons]

Definitely use a piston stop as the timing numbers are all keyed off of true TDC.

 

[teeje]

Thanks for the info. I ended up getting a stock lifter and I'm gonna let the machine shop take care of it. They know what to do. Unless I absolutely need one...they didn't mention anything about needing one. Also, I'm using cam locks and v10 deletes so there's no way the valves will contact. I think they just want to make sure they're timed the same like stated earlier in here.

Sent from my SM-N986U using Tapatalk