cam swap wedge slipped

redstangs9308gt

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well, its happend. I got the old cam out, bolted in the new cam, and while I was trying to get the phaser on the keyway of the new cam the chain slipped on the bottom. I have not touched the driver side cam yet so I know its still in time. WTF am I going to do about getting this car back in time? I know I got to pull the timing chain cover off again.
Help. Oh and I still have the timing marks on the phaser and chain up top so I know thats good.
 

CraigNnem

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Take the front cover off & make sure the marks on the crank line up.
 

BruceH

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You already said it. The cover has to come off. It's doable just takes some time. You may have to take a bolt out of a tensioner to get enough slack on the chain.

Just take your time and get the marks right. Make sure you use the R mark on the passenger side and L mark on the driver.

Just in case you don't have this link here it is. Follow the Ford manual and all will be well.

http://iihs.net/fsm/?dir=159&viewfile=Engine.pdf

An example of the L and R Phaser timing marks.

100_1139.jpg
 

tmcolegr

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Now that you have to remove the timing cover, this would be the perfect time to upgrade to the steel bodied tensioners if you haven't already done so.
 

wabirch

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I would venture to say that if you remember what position the phaser was in when you marked it to the chain and you get that back in the same position that you are in good shape. Good luck.
 

redstangs9308gt

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OK, I found the problem reason why the chain wedge slipped and all hell broke loose and I couldn't get my phaser back on my cam. The timing chain tensioner is fully extended. How the heck do you collapse the tensioner?
 

BruceH

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OK, I found the problem reason why the chain wedge slipped and all hell broke loose and I couldn't get my phaser back on my cam. The timing chain tensioner is fully extended. How the heck do you collapse the tensioner?

You can use a vise and retain it with a retainer tool that comes with a new tensioner or muscle it in with the chain guide.
 

tmcolegr

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If you choose to remove the tensioner, to compress it in a vise, be very careful not to damage the seal where the tensioner mounts. If the seal is damaged the tensioner must be repaced. Just one more reason to upgrade to steel bodied tensioners.

I also suggest priming the engine prior to reinstalling the front cover to ensure the timing doesn't jump out of time when the engine is started.
 

redstangs9308gt

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Ok, forget about the passenger side. We are working on the driverside L cam timing right now. Which hasn't been removed. I am trying to get the dark link up at the 12oclock position over top of the L on the cam phaser. I have rotated this freaking engine at least 184 revolutions. I have got the L with the dark link at the 12oclock position 2 times now. Both times the L with dark link has not been exactly at 12oclock. It is off just slightly like say around 10-13 mintues after the 12oclock postion. Bruce H pic looks like my engine. Notice how his is not exactly at 12oclock. Yes my dot for the passenger side on the crank gear is at the 6oclock position give or take a few minutes. What I am trying to convey to you guys is that it isn't exactly perfect. Is this how these things go together? I am seriously trying not to panic out right now. This was the Main reason why I didn't build my engine myself. HELP!:helpme::helpme::helpme::helpme::helpme::helpme::helpme::omfg::omfg::omfg::omfg::omfg::omfg::mad2::mad2::mad2::mad2::mad2::mad2::mad2::mad2::mad2:
 

BruceH

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Ok, forget about the passenger side. We are working on the driverside L cam timing right now. Which hasn't been removed. I am trying to get the dark link up at the 12oclock position over top of the L on the cam phaser. I have rotated this freaking engine at least 184 revolutions. I have got the L with the dark link at the 12oclock position 2 times now. Both times the L with dark link has not been exactly at 12oclock. It is off just slightly like say around 10-13 mintues after the 12oclock postion. Bruce H pic looks like my engine. Notice how his is not exactly at 12oclock. Yes my dot for the passenger side on the crank gear is at the 6oclock position give or take a few minutes. What I am trying to convey to you guys is that it isn't exactly perfect. Is this how these things go together? I am seriously trying not to panic out right now. This was the Main reason why I didn't build my engine myself. HELP!:helpme::helpme::helpme::helpme::helpme::helpme::helpme::omfg::omfg::omfg::omfg::omfg::omfg::mad2::mad2::mad2::mad2::mad2::mad2::mad2::mad2::mad2:

It will never go to exactly 12 o'clock due to motor compression. What's important is the marks are lined up with the chain marks and all slack is out of the chains.

BTW it takes alot of motor revolutions to get the chain and phaser marks lined up again after a rotation. A few of us on this board have had minor panic moments the first time we discovered it. You are almost there, all that's left is to button it up.
 

redstangs9308gt

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I still have to remove the other 550 cam on the driver side. I left that one alone till I got this timing issue lined out.
 

circusboy

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I'm so fucking done with opening these motors lol. Reading your post made me panic and have flashbacks lol.
 

redstangs9308gt

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Yeah, this is my last time screwing around with a new engine and adding hp. Fact is when this engine blows. I will be doing what Paul did just not to that extreme. I was thinking carbed stroked 347 or 351 all motor.
 

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