Can't get camber close, even with camber plates and bolts.

[Skips]

I Changed the front struts on my 2006 GT from the American Muscle brand SR to Koni Orange STR.T struts. Ater the change using my Amazon camber gauge, I cannot get any positive camber at all only negative camber out of spec. 2.0 to 2.5 negative. (Should be -.5 to -1.5) I have Maximum Motorsports Camber plates and BMR Camber bolts and have adjusted them both for positive camber but still can only get negative 2.0 to -2.5 camber. Any ideas?

 

[JC SSP]

First has the car been in an accident? Second where did you install the adjustable camber bolts (upper or lower strut hole).

I suggest going to an alignment shop too… their equipment (Hunter machine) is going to be much more accurate.

 

[Skips]

Camber bolt is in the top hole. The car has neve been in an accident. With the previous struts I had no problem getting it in spec. Car seems a little lower now than it was, I wonder if my springs have compressed since I installed the old struts and had the camber done and alignment. They are only two to three years old. I am afraid that I'll bring it to you know I'm in shop and it won't be able to get the camber in spec and I'll have to pay even though it still won't be right.That's why I want to get it close first before I send it or alignment.

 

[JC SSP]

Goodyear corporate stores do free alignment check. Call ahead of time to confirm.

 

[DieHarder]

Lowering increases negative camber. Try spinning the upper strut mounts 180 deg (make the cut out point IN towards the engine instead of out). That should get them closer or even within spec. Agree with JC - take it into an alignment shop. They should be able to pinpoint your problem in fairly short order.

I lowered my car about 1/2" Front & 1" rear. Spinning my upper strut mounts 180 put me at a near perfect -.07/-.08 each side without the need for camber bolts.

 

[Skips]

Lowering increases negative camber. Try spinning the upper strut mounts 180 deg (make the cut out point IN towards the engine instead of out). That should get them closer or even within spec. Agree with JC - take it into an alignment shop. They should be able to pinpoint your problem in fairly short order.

I lowered my car about 1/2" Front & 1" rear. Spinning my upper strut mounts 180 put me at a near perfect -.07/-.08 each side without the need for camber bolts.

Are you specifically talking about the Maximum Motorsports Camber plates? The directions tell you to have the cut out in the camber plate facing out. If I face them in will the larger caster stud still lign up?

 

[JC SSP]

He’s referring to OEM stock or GT500 upper strut mounts.

The ones you have replace those.

https://www.maximummotorsports.com/Mustang-Caster-Camber-Plates-2005-2010-and-2007-2014-GT500-P1151.aspx

 

[Skips]

Correct and are supposed to add another 1.6° of adjustability yet I still can't adjust my Camber to under negative two. The only change I made were the struts. I double checked the part number on the struts and they are the correct ones for the s197. I'm at a loss here.

 

[DieHarder]

JC, thanks for the correction (literally skipped over that second sentence)... Only other thing I can offer (besides being too low) is how old are your LCA's? Last time I experienced a similar issue (too much negative camber) I found the cup for the ball joint on the driver's side was slowly failing/loosening which introduced additional negative camber. Alignment shop found it during an inspection. I replaced them myself with GT500 units which are made of stouter/thicker metal (especially where the ball joint sits). Cost is about the same/slightly more but better made and should last longer.

 

[Skips]

JC, thanks for the correction (literally skipped over that second sentence)... Only other thing I can offer (besides being too low) is how old are your LCA's? Last time I experienced a similar issue (too much negative camber) I found the cup for the ball joint on the driver's side was slowly failing/loosening which introduced additional negative camber. Alignment shop found it during an inspection. I replaced them myself with GT500 units which are made of stouter/thicker metal (especially where the ball joint sits). Cost is about the same but better made and should last longer.

Thanks. The lower control arms may be original and I will look into that. I was able to get the camber in spec with my basic gauge after reloosening everything pulling the strut out double checking to make sure the camber plate was assembled correctly and just readjusting the camber bolt. I putt more pressure to the outside of the fender as I tighten the upper plate bolts. I repeated that process a second time on both sides and now have it in spec .It's going for an alignment tomorrow so I'll know more when it comes out of the shop. I also found I didn't have the caster set with what the camber platedirections told me to. Not sure if that changed anything as far as the camber goes but for whatever reason it's in spec now if you trust the basic gauge I'm using. I'll post after it comes back from the alignment shop.

 

[MasterofDisaster]

The mechanic who aligns my cars won't align a car until it has about 1,000 miles on new struts. Maybe give your new struts a chance to settle in and then recheck the camber?