Caster/Camber plates?

[Rypper1]

Ok, I am going to be ordering some SP009 BMR Springs and I already have a clunky front end. Do I need to add caster/camber plates and will it help get rid of the clunks when crossing bumps?

I read a bunch here on the GT500 strut mounts and they seem to be hit or miss. And from what I read, you have to change more than just the mount to work on the 11 up GT's.

 

[06 T-RED S/C GT]

You'll really see the benefits from the CC plates with your BMR springs..
As for the clunking noises ? you should also see a significant improvement as well, as the stock strut mounts are garbage IMHO..

However your clunking noises can also be from your dampers wearing out, your front and rear sway bars/links or your LCA's..

If you already haven't done so.. I'd also recommend having those checked as well..

 

[tj@steeda]

The Steeda HD mounts are a great option too. They offer more adjustments:

http://www.steeda.com/steeda-mustang-upper-strut-mounts-555-8135/

Steeda's Upper Strut Mounts for 2011+ Mustang have been tested on several popular race tracks to ensure increased suspension performance along with no increase in NVH. Manufactured from billet aluminum, billet steel, TIG-welded, nickel plated, and grade 12.9 hardware.
Comes with a fully caged 70mm diameter 7200lb capacity needle roller bearing for long life and incredible strength. Triple sealed to keep out dirt and water. Uses custom made polyurethane bushings to improve suspension compliance while keeping NVH at a minimum. Allows for +/- 1 degree of camber adjustment.
A great upgrade for anyone racing their car, running lowering springs, or wanting to rid their car of the popping sounds coming from worn factory and inferior aftermarket mounts.
Note: Does not fit model years before 2011. This kit is designed for 2011 and up Mustangs only.
Product Benefits
No suspension knockback caused by use of spherical bearings found in competitors mounts
Precision Tolerance and Fit with the Highest Grade Materials available
+/- 1 degree of camber adjustment
Read Steeda's blog post to learn more about the truth behind caster and camber products: http://www.steedablog.com/2012/08/the-truth-about-camber-caster-plates-and-strut-mounts/

Send me a note if your interested and I can work on forum pricing.

Best Regards,

TJ

 

[TGR96]

I am running gt500 mounts with no issues on my lowered '13, but I have set of the steeda HD mounts that I plan on installing soon, just to have a little more adjustability without the cost of full on cc plates.

 

[Mr. Q]

As said before, the clunking noise most likely doesn't have anything to do with you adding cc plates. I recommend maximum motorsports or vorshlag. I personally had max mot. plates and loved them. Will be going back to them soon.

 

[Rypper1]

As said before, the clunking noise most likely doesn't have anything to do with you adding cc plates. I recommend maximum motorsports or vorshlag. I personally had max mot. plates and loved them. Will be going back to them soon.

I haven't added cc plates yet. I'm considering them because I am going to be lowering the car a bit. I was wondering if they would help get rid of the clunks. Most of what I read indicates that the factory front strut mounts are crap and the cause of most clunks when crossing bumps.

 

[travelers]

Yes they do make the clunking and CCs will help with lowering. Do the research on the best ones for your needs.

 

[06 T-RED S/C GT]

As said before, the clunking noise most likely doesn't have anything to do with you adding cc plates. I recommend maximum motorsports or vorshlag. I personally had max mot. plates and loved them. Will be going back to them soon.

They most certainly do have something to do with it.. As the OEM strut mounts are junk and not only did they clunk every time going over road imperfections, but they would always making a popping noise when making turns from a dead spot as well..

Since upgrading to the GT500 strut mounts, both the popping sounds and clunking noise are gone !

 

[06 T-RED S/C GT]

I haven't added cc plates yet. I'm considering them because I am going to be lowering the car a bit. I was wondering if they would help get rid of the clunks. Most of what I read indicates that the factory front strut mounts are crap and the cause of most clunks when crossing bumps.

What you read is absolutely spot on about the factory mounts being crap.. I went through the same issues with clunks as you did and after I replaced them with the GT500 strut mounts, the clunking noises were gone..

As for adding CC plates are concerned, they're mostly recommended for lowered vehicles that require caster/camber adjustments for putting the front end alignment back to within factory specs.. Once the vehicle has been lowered 1.5 inches and below, this puts the factory camber bolts beyond their adjustability range and is therefore no longer enough for keeping your front end aligned within factory specs..

As mentioned, you can always look into the Steeda HD mounts that provide more adjustability without the additional cost of CC plates that will also get rid of the clunking noises as well

 

[Rypper1]

What you read is absolutely spot on about the factory mounts being crap.. I went through the same issues with clunks as you did and after I replaced them with the GT500 strut mounts, the clunking noises were gone..

As for adding CC plates are concerned, they're mostly recommended for lowered vehicles that require caster/camber adjustments for putting the front end alignment back to within factory specs.. Once the vehicle has been lowered 1.5 inches and below, this puts the factory camber bolts beyond their adjustability range and is therefore no longer enough for keeping your front end aligned within factory specs..

As mentioned, you can always look into the Steeda HD mounts that provide more adjustability without the additional cost of CC plates that will also get rid of the clunking noises as well

I'll be lowering right at 1.5" that is why I have been looking at cc plates. Specifically looking at the BMR SP009 springs. And only want to do the job once. Thanks to everyone for all the input.

Edit: From what I have read I can't just swap to the GT500 mounts since it is a 2012. I'd have to change struts as well.

 

[06 T-RED S/C GT]

I'll be lowering right at 1.5" that is why I have been looking at cc plates. Specifically looking at the BMR SP009 springs. And only want to do the job once. Thanks to everyone for all the input.

Edit: From what I have read I can't just swap to the GT500 mounts since it is a 2012. I'd have to change struts as well.

If your lowering at 1.5" ? it's also recommended to upgrade from the factory OEM shocks/struts to aftermarket dampers that are designed to provide the best handling and performance results for lowered suspension applications..

Edit: The Steeda HD mounts don't require changing the struts for a 2012, unlike the GT500 strut mounts require to begin with anyhow..

 

[Sky Render]

Clunking? Check all of the front sway bar fasteners. There are 2 bolts on each bushing saddle and 2 bolts for each end link, for a total of 8 bolts to check.

Put the front of the car on jack stands, take the wheels off, and check the torque on all 8 of those bolts. It will take you less than an hour total.

 

[Pentalab]

This is what you want. http://www.steeda.com/steeda-mustang-upper-strut-mounts-555-8135/

For a DD street car, you don't require any caster adjustment. But camber adjustment is required. Oem strut mount is junk..and no camber adj. I use the 05-10 version on my lowered 2010. Works superb..with both fronts set to -1 deg.
Zero clunking. The steeda HD strut mount is built like a tank. Install it correctly, set your camber, then forget about it.

 

[tj@steeda]

This is what you want. http://www.steeda.com/steeda-mustang-upper-strut-mounts-555-8135/

For a DD street car, you don't require any caster adjustment. But camber adjustment is required. Oem strut mount is junk..and no camber adj. I use the 05-10 version on my lowered 2010. Works superb..with both fronts set to -1 deg.
Zero clunking. The steeda HD strut mount is built like a tank. Install it correctly, set your camber, then forget about it.

Best Regards,

TJ

 

[Pentalab]

On my oem strut mounts, I had -1.1 on the pass side..and -1.4 on the drivers side. Heck, lets try and at least make them both the same. You could easily see the difference. With no camber adjustment, you are screwed. Ford sez anything from -.5 to -1.5 is good. But each side can be at extremes..and still meet ford specs. IE: -.5 on pass side..... and -1.5 on driver's side.

Most have found that the steeda +/- 1 deg spec is in addition to what you have to start with. IE: you can go a lot more than -1 deg..as much as -2 deg. For street use, -1 deg to -1.5 deg is ample.