Clutch ..time for a change ?

brasil

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hope someone can give me an advise... sometimes when I am waiting at a red /stop light ( with gear /tranny in neutral of course ..and left foot off the clutch pedal !) Something strange happens when the light switches to green and I press the clutch...The first gear goes in but sometimes I can "feel " that -even with the clutch pedal fullly pressed - a very very slight sound coming from the rear end.

The clutch does not slip... and all gears from 1st to 5th and Reverse are going in without problems.

is the symptom I described a sign of a worn clutch and /or dying master /slave cylinder ??

What do you guys think ??
 

whitmanink

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yea agree with above post,
but might as well refresh the clutch with all new bits since you gotta pull the tranny to get to the stuff anywho
 

brasil

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… @ all. That is what I am thinking also .. time for a whole new clutch scenario .
About the master cylinder .. I have two of them - a master for a GT 500 and the „ normal one from Sachs / Valeo ..
Gt 500 is better they say - even if I cannot see a difference ( besides the part numbers )
The new clutch line I bought is a SS line with bleeder ..

Flywheel and Clutch kit are SACHS …

Hope that all the stuff I have is good for the job

Do I need new Fly Wheel Screws ? Are they TTY ??
 

brasil

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Forgot to say .. on the Slave cylinder I have it says FTE .. is this a good one ???
 

Kev555

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… @ all. That is what I am thinking also .. time for a whole new clutch scenario .
About the master cylinder .. I have two of them - a master for a GT 500 and the „ normal one from Sachs / Valeo ..
Gt 500 is better they say - even if I cannot see a difference ( besides the part numbers )
The new clutch line I bought is a SS line with bleeder ..

Flywheel and Clutch kit are SACHS …

Hope that all the stuff I have is good for the job

Do I need new Fly Wheel Screws ? Are they TTY ??
On the auto flex plate I think they were TTY, not sure about manual but possibly hard to source originals unless they are cross compatible with other ford cranks? You can always can get ARP bolts as I got recommended on here. That's what I got as genuine were hard to source and any I found were outrageously marked up prices.
 
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Midlife Crises

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The stock Ford flywheel bolts and pressure plate bolts should be replaced with the new clutch. ARP is an excellent choice as is the stock Ford fasteners. If you don’t get new dowels with the clutch kit you can knock the dowels out of the stock flywheel and reuse them if you have too.
Don’t forget to measure the throwout bearing preload before you put the tranny back in the car. Around 1/2” interference fit should work fine. You can fill the slave cylinder with fluid before installing it on the transmission and save a little leg work later.
 

brasil

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@ Midlife crises. The clutch kit is from LUK ( not from Sachs as I wrote before ) If I use these parts do I need to verify the TOB preload ?? And how do I have to messure ?

@ all on the first three pics you can see a helpful item to block the DS from turning.. a 12x1.5mm Screw. I screw this his bolt into one of the treads on output shaft of the tranny..

the forth pic shows the MC Leod kit, I purchased... this one has a bleeder...

the last pics show the old clutch kit... still ok ( my opinion ) the car made 70 k mls with the clutch
( this is the clutch that the factory installed )

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JC SSP

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I currently have an 05’ auto GT and 87’ 5 spd 5.0L, but most of my mustangs have been stick, so I have done many TOB, clutch & PP in my time. I highly recommend resurfacing that flywheel or buying a SFI rated one. Don’t forget the crank pilot bushing which I prefer rollerized.

Others will chime in on the TOB spacer/washer. That’s critical in these newer Mustangs.
 

Midlife Crises

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Do a search on this sight for Throwout bearing shim and it will turn up a discussion on measuring with the components you have. I’ve done three clutch jobs on S179 Mustangs. I did not measure the first one and I had the pleasure of doing it over. Added a 1/4” spacer plate and it worked fine after that. The next two I measured before installation. Both took shims. If you check you don’t have to worry about it.
As far as the bleeder goes, I’ve never used one. Fill the slave on the bench and put everything together. Top off the reservoir and pump the pedal 10 or 20 times
 

whitmanink

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Id put that clutch back in, unless it had a 'heavy' pedal.
i would agree as the rivets have quite a bit of material around them yet , (altho the rivet all the way to the right in the pic looks worn down but could be the angle of the pic since the others look meaty yet)
 

brasil

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Made my „ homework „ today
The result of messuring the TOB preload on my car is a „ preload of 0.440 inch / 11,16 mm

The numbers are .. distance TOB / Bellhouse. 26.63 inch / 67,66 mm

Engine back incl the steelplate to clutch. 31.50 inch / 80,02 mm

Distance clutch top to clutch springs 0.048 inch / 1,2 mm

So the total is 0.440 / 11,16 mm

Is that ok ? When I use the GT 500 master in my „ combo „ ??
 
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