Crank, No Start - no fuel pressure

[GoneFord]

But cycle the electrical system and it starts...

I’m having a hard time figuring out where to begin…

I got in my car after it was parked for about 2 hours and it cranked but did not start. So I cranked it again, and this time held it in the start position longer than I normally do and the factory antitheft system went off. I didn’t notice if the PATS light was fast flashing or not as I didn’t bother to check (a little embarrassed my car was in an alarm state).

I reset the alarm and tried to start it again and after cranking (probably too long) the antitheft system went off again. Being a software engineer and Windows user I figured I’d try a reboot. I cut the power to the system (via a breaker I installed when I relocated the battery to the trunk probably about 2 years ago) and the car started without issue. As I was leaving the parking lot I noticed that at a stop my speedometer was bouncing – 0 to 15 to 0 then up to 25, seemingly randomly. Once the car was moving the speedometer operated properly.

After arriving at my office I began some basic troubleshooting and here’s what I discovered.

At idle with everything off, everything appeared to work fine. Put a load on the electrical system (lights or fan) and the speedometer would bounce – and bounce with the engine RPM.

When leaving from work, the car refused to start again. I noticed I had no fuel pressure. Cycled the cars electrical system and I had fuel pressure and the car started.

At home I repeated the same thing only at home I noticed when the car refused to start (no fuel pressure) I also had a rapidly flashing PATS indicator. Cycled the power and the car started.

I’ve tried both my keys and the results are the same so based on my searches and other forum research that should pretty much rule out the PATS…??? The secondary key has probably been used 3 times now. It’s kept in my safe.

Here’s a video of the RPM enabled speedometer (sorry about the wind noise, but I was using the A/C to put a load on the electrical system – same thing with the lights). It seems increased load (A/C and lights together) exacerbated the problem.



However, after that video, I shut the car down and then promptly restarted it and everything worked fine.



I’m using the stock fuel system with a KB BAP. The car is garage kept, hasn’t seen rain in ages and spent last winter in the garage. No moisture on the floor boards, and no electrical changes next to extending the wires for the trunk release, light and third brake light for trunk lid beautification (2 weeks ago). Battery is new, terminal connections are good.

Later in the evening the car again refused to start. Cycled the power and it started…

Any ideas?

 

[06silverbullet]

if that pats light is rapidly blinking it means theres something wrong with it.

 

[GoneFord]

Well, I found what I suspect is the root of my problem. My Kenne Bell supplied intercooler pump relay is toast. It's "supposed" to be a waterproof relay... well apparently it isn't coolant proof because it had coolant in it.

I can't figure out how the coolant got there, unless I spilled some over there during one of half dozen times I had to take the SC off to track/find and finally fix a coolant leak that was finally determined to be the KB supplied coolant crossover (silicone hoses).

I'd have never checked this had it not gone in to "hyper relay" mode when I shut down the car Thursday night. It was cycling very fast - evidenced by the arcflash that appears on the brass contact.

Not sure how long the intercooler pump hasn't been working... I can usually hear it over the SC at idle, but you know how you get used to sounds...

So this is where the relay is located - passenger side fender near the fuse box (fuse box is relocated for intake tube clearance - plug has been disconnected).

After prying the relay out of it's housing this is what it looks like:

And the inside of the relay housing:

I'm concerned about what this might have screwed up elsewhere in the electrical system as I still have the bouncing speedometer issue.

Finding this relay was a pain in the rear. Finally found a source through Amazon and ordered it.

No boost for me for a little while... No intercooler pump. It'll rest in the garage until I get the new relay and continue troubleshooting the secondary effects.

You guys have any thoughts on what problem might be causing the erratic speedometer? It seems to work perfectly for for speed indication, it just appears to have ADHD when it should be at rest...

 

[GoneFord]

Replaced the relay; no joy on the intercooler pump. Direct connected the pump; no joy.

Ordered a better pump (bigger too) and after rearranging everything to make it fit I have excellent circulation. However, I still have the erratic speedometer issue.

On to the alternator.

 

[1quick08]

When we get cars in the shop with dead batteries,we normally see the bouncing gauges and erratic dash operation.Could be a poor connection somewhere in the harness,or a corroded ground similar to your relay.Maybe check around the same area for some more of the same coolant corrosion.