CX racing turbo kit for 3v

Discussion in 'DIY Tech Guides' started by miltonmegilliii, May 22, 2021.

Car Parts
  1. miltonmegilliii

    miltonmegilliii Learning the ways.

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    I will try to come back here and update with more info and findings as time goes on but for now here is what i have for the cx racing turbo kit install. The base kit isnt terrible but it does have quiet a few clearance concerns from what we found. Also you obviously have to source your own fuel componants, gauges tune ect. *note* these are my findings during the install other people may find more or less that I did. There is always more than one way to get the job done. IMG_20210328_133032.jpg
     
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  2. miltonmegilliii

    miltonmegilliii Learning the ways.

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    update:

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  3. miltonmegilliii

    miltonmegilliii Learning the ways.

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    Update:

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  4. miltonmegilliii

    miltonmegilliii Learning the ways.

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    Update:

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  5. miltonmegilliii

    miltonmegilliii Learning the ways.

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    Update:

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  6. miltonmegilliii

    miltonmegilliii Learning the ways.

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    Yes I did clock the turbo after that one picture.

    There was a ton of clearance issues as you can see. Took bending, rerouting, zip tie and so on to get it to this point. per my tuner I did remake the maf housing tube so it was straight rather than S bend that came with the kit. I also moved the bov pre intercooler per his request. supplied my own injectors 47lb and fule pump 300lph. upgraded the alternator and fuel pump wires from s&h. added an afr and boost gauge. For my application I changed the wastegate springs to 5lb. custom made te exhaust to meet the cx racing down pipe. purchased a maf extention harness and O2 extender harness as well. hpx pmas maf. added O2 bungs to the cross pipes. I redrilled holes in the radiator bracket to move it forward an inch or so and gain some clearance.
    I am currently fighting a pinch power steering line that will have to be re routed and some speeping oil I have to locate. Other than those two things its looking nice so far.
     
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  7. miltonmegilliii

    miltonmegilliii Learning the ways.

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    As I remember things I will try to add them. I have been suggested to do a video walk around and chat about it so i may do that later as well. If I do ILL try to share the links.

    The complete lack of instructions for this kit was the biggest issue. It would save a lot of grief if there was a nice set to walk you trough things rather than poke and hope. They fail to mention things like bending the a/c service port, tweeking brake lines and ac lines, fail to mention you MAY want a scavenger pump since its low mount and oil drain can be iffy. The O2 bungs they offer could have been better placed. there was no need for the s bend maf pipe. I put in a 13in 3in od straight in its place.
    We welded together an S pipe to finish the exhaust and attach it to the factory Axel pipe. Even after moving the radiator more forward we had a clamp pinned between the radiator shroud and subframe. We decided to trim the clamp threads a bit to help with that. For the t stat housing they bent the small elbow to make it fit. we opted to flip the hat of the t stat housing and cut the silicone hose to the radiator about an inch short. its tight but fits. The oil drain on the turbo was a stupid tight fit. we fit the hose to the flange Then bolted it to the turbo. I also changed one of the turbo clamp bolts to a flatter head bolt.
    The kit says you can keep ac and power steering and in my experiance is mostly true. they are still there. power steering works ok (gets hot since it removed the cooler to better fit the intercooler) The ac on the other hand is not working. The connector is too long and rests on the v band for the down pipe. I did not feel comfortable leaving it like that so until i can modify the connector housing or find another way I have no ac.
     
  8. miltonmegilliii

    miltonmegilliii Learning the ways.

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    A few clearance issues I would look out for are the a/c connector. the wires for the starter both close to the starter and ac compressor. The main engine harness on the passenger side near the header. The fuel line near the drivers side header. AC lines near the Turbo and down pipe above the subframe. The turbo in my case rests on the new fan housing. The steel power steering line near the down pipe.
    we also made our own harness for the fans to keep the factory relay and sensor. I tried laying it in the shroud similar to facotry but it did not fit well so we secured it to the core support right next to the radiator. the charge pipe that goes from the intercooler up to the engine bay was a tight fit. we bent the thin metal framing (you could possibly cut it out) to allow it to feed under the headlight. If I was so inclined to keep some sort of washer tank I would suggest a small tank that could set inside the cowl where our cars like to store water any way. then just move the pump wire and hose feed and youll be all set.
     
  9. Aerofinz

    Aerofinz Member

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    Impressive writeup!
     
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  10. miltonmegilliii

    miltonmegilliii Learning the ways.

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    @Aerofinz. I wish I could have taken more time on the project gotten more and better photos. if i had more time I would have just honestly done a step by step write up. I bet cx would have loved it lol. alas I just decided to make this a live doc and keep updating as I remember things.
     
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  11. freeloader1969

    freeloader1969 Member

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    I had way less routing issues on my On3 kit. What I really like about this kit though is the routing of the hot side pipes, they don't go under the control arms. As far as clearance problems, turbo kits always need some tweaking here and there. Doesn't matter if it's a Hellion kit, CX or On3. A ballpeen hammer and a torch are you're best friends when installing a turbo kit IMHO. Doesn't hurt to have fabricating skills as well.
     
    miltonmegilliii likes this.
  12. miltonmegilliii

    miltonmegilliii Learning the ways.

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    update and photos.

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  13. miltonmegilliii

    miltonmegilliii Learning the ways.

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    Just thought of some more tough spots that could use photos. ac compressor connector, intercooler charge pipe under passenger headlight, and wastegate bumps by the crank.


    It's been about a month now since I've been driving it. The tune is finally settled and Im enjoying it. I do believe I and under my original estimate on whp. I wasn't accounting for the large overlap from the hot rods. as soon as I get on a dyno I can figure out if or how much I can turn up the boost.
    I did notice I was slinging a small amount of oil from the crank bolt. likely from a poor job i did sealing it when I installed the underdrives. I installed a new bolt and new sealer. so far so good.

    Oil drain complications appear to be situated as well. I do have a nice scavenger pump ready to install though maybe over the winter. along with a power steering cooler. I removed the factory one to better fit the intercooler and ever once in a while I can hear the fluid is aerated from overheating. I still plan on doing a walk-around video, cold start, and flyby eventually. Cant wait to see how it runs at the track.
     
  14. RED09GT

    RED09GT Equal Opportunity Offender S197 Team Member

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    After seeing all these fitment tweaks, it is too bad that powerhouse racing doesn't still make their kit. I maybe had to loosen and tweak a few bits here and there but did not have all these issues with clearance.

    What turbo does the kit use? What size turbine housing?
    Unless you have a restrictive exhaust, overlap is not likely to be the cause of any power that you feel you are missing.
     
  15. miltonmegilliii

    miltonmegilliii Learning the ways.

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    You get what you pay for though. Its a budget priced kit. Just under 3k for the whole kit. -ancillary.
    Its a 76mm turbo, unmarked,unbranded. the turbo came in box inside a box that had the label GTxxxx unlabeled. so im wondering if its garret. could be vs too idk.
    Why wouldnt overlap be a cause for lack of power in comparison to a custom grind cam? if the exhaust valve is open while the intake valve is also open isnt there a chance the boost pressure may leak through the exhaust valve?
     
  16. RED09GT

    RED09GT Equal Opportunity Offender S197 Team Member

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    Leave that boost leaking due to overlap theory back in the 90's where it belongs.
    In order for that to happen, you would need to have a situation where there is zero backpressure between the turbo and the exhaust port and any boost that went out the exhaust valve would actually help spool as the hot exhaust would ignite the fuel from the escaped boost charge and helps torque production, read some of Kenny Duttweiler's stuff on that.
    The so-called issue with overlap is more due to old turbine housings and old inefficient turbine wheels causing too much back pressure between the turbine and the open exhaust valve reverting some of the exhaust back into the cylinder, taking up space from the new intake charge coming in-quite the opposite of the boost leaking out.
    If it is a 76mm turbo with no brand, it is one of the infamous china turbos, you are going to need a bunch more cubic inches to get that thing to spool decently on the street.

    My "custom" turbo cams certianly did not help spool and there are no magic tricks to it.
     
  17. miltonmegilliii

    miltonmegilliii Learning the ways.

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    Ok ill have to check it out. With my minimal boost im full spool by just before 4k.
     
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