Detailing Questions-Answered

bw281

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Just Google and you'll find them if they have some..



Yeah, I agree. I always do that after using an acid on a set of wheels. I'm doubting Sonax FE gets it off but we'll see since it seems like bw281 already made his mind up.
I haven't made up my mind or going against your opinions, I know you guys know much more about detailing than me. I'm just a little apprehensive about using wheel acid on my wheels.
 

Seer

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I haven't made up my mind or going against your opinions, I know you guys know much more about detailing than me. I'm just a little apprehensive about using wheel acid on my wheels.

Buy the Meguiars Wheel Brightener. Mix it to their prescribe dillution ratios. Just buy acid neutralizer. As soon as youre done washing off the wheel brightener, spray the neutralizer. You'll be fine, a lot of products are acid based that you may already use currently.

just don't breah the wheel brightener in, thats all, or get it on your hands. If you're going to agitate your wheels, wear latex gloves.
 
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bw281

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Thank you very much DKS, Seer, and Nastystang. I will report results on here when I get some new products and try them :thumb:
 

NastyStang113

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I haven't made up my mind or going against your opinions, I know you guys know much more about detailing than me. I'm just a little apprehensive about using wheel acid on my wheels.

I didn't mean it like that. Just shooting the wind trying to get Seers opinion on it as well. Like Seer said use an acid neutralizer and you'll have zero problems without a doubt. Gotta remember there are tons of guys who use the stuff and do nothing but rinse it well without issues. I just wouldn't use it a ton. The point is to just get them clean with it and than keep them clean.
 

DKS

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I didn't mean it like that. Just shooting the wind trying to get Seers opinion on it as well. Like Seer said use an acid neutralizer and you'll have zero problems without a doubt. Gotta remember there are tons of guys who use the stuff and do nothing but rinse it well without issues. I just wouldn't use it a ton. The point is to just get them clean with it and than keep them clean.


Exactly. Don't let them get bad and they're a breeze to clean.
 

erat

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Is there a product that actually works, that anyone knows of that actually eliminates smoke odor from a vehicle?
 
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Rasmus

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Is there a product that actually works, that anyone knows of that actually eliminates smoke odor from a vehicle?

I've removed bad/pungent smoke odors from several vehicles. The only thing that really works, in my opinion, is shampooing and hot water extraction. You need to get all that fine dust out of everything cloth.
 

bw281

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I can't think of the name, when I was a detailer at a local Lexus/Toyota we would use one of those allergic air purifier(not the round, white honeywell type, but the small box type that makes a burning smell if you put it on too high.) They kind of look like a shoebox with wood around it.
 

bw281

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just finished up with the Sonax full effect on my wheels. It sure cleaned out the rivets on my foose wheels. Was hoping product would have got my small embedded brake dust spots out.

I want to give clay a chance before ordering an acidic wheel cleaner.
Recommendations for claying my wheels?

Think I will the basic meguiar's clay bar system work for this. Hope that this takes it out without marring my chrome, and all will be well.

Thanks.
 
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Fuerte

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Instead of making an thread I figured I would ask here.

I am looking a a good for a good beginner buffer with the basics, under 250 shipped. But i don't know any of the brands or what pads to get. So if any of the experts can help me that would be great!
 

DKS

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Instead of making an thread I figured I would ask here.

I am looking a a good for a good beginner buffer with the basics, under 250 shipped. But i don't know any of the brands or what pads to get. So if any of the experts can help me that would be great!


I think a Porter Cable 7424xp package will do you right.
 

bw281

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Thanks I know what to save for then.
I was just checking them out last night on ebay, a lot of places have them for 119 shipped. I saw that lethal has them on their site as well. If your timing is good, maybe they will have their free shipping sale and a forum discount
 

Mach2burnout

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so does this Duragloss nu glass really work? I don't mean to doubt anybody's word but I have tried all kinds of stuff to try to get the water spots off my windows. Nothing has worked. If and when I do I will definitely be sealing them.
 

Jeffk

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I have a variable speed Makita rotary, and I am pretty handy with it but my pads are older than most of the members on here (and they're not foam). I used them and some Megs cleaner/wax on my wifes car yesterday and it looked way better. I want to tackle the Mustang but I know I need new foam pads and I wanted to see what products you guys reccomend with the rotary machines. It's got some swirls and environmental contaminents on it. I know the basics are still the same, citrus wash then clay bar but from there what's the reccomendation?

Thanks,
Jeff
 
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Seer

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I have a variable speed Makita rotary, and I am pretty handy with it but my pads are older than most of the members on here (and they're not foam). I used them and some Megs cleaner/wax on my wifes car yesterday and it looked way better. I want to tackle the Mustang but I know I need new foam pads and I wanted to see what products you guys reccomend with the rotary machines. It's got some swirls and environmental contaminents on it. I know the basics are still the same, citrus wash then clay bar but from there what's the reccomendation?

Thanks,
Jeff

I use a Makita and a Rotary Flex.

Stick with 5.5" Lake Country style pads. The uber pads from Detailers domain are very nice, so are the LC Hydrotech.

Get a few compounding pads, a few polishing and a few finishing. Although finishing with a DA has proven to be really nice too.

As far as polishes go:

Compounds/Med-Heavy Cut: Meguiars 105 or Menzerna Super Intensive Polish (SIP)

Polish / Finishing: Meguiars 205 or Menzerna PO85rd or Menzerna Power Finish (I really like this, this is probably the best single pass polish on the market).
 

Jeffk

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Is one type of polisher better than the other? Should I look at getting a DA? Sorry, it's been a while since I've really dove into detailing.

Thanks for the suggestions SEER
 
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Seer

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Is one type of polisher better than the other? Should I look at getting a DA? Sorry, it's been a while since I've really dove into detailing.

Thanks for the suggestions SEER

A rotary is going to correct better and faster than a DA, but DA's have came a long way. DA meaning Dual action have a random orbit motion as well as the rotary circular motion. The orbital motion loses efficiency in it's correcting abilities but adds a big safety factor.

A rotary you can still mess up and burn through the paint, a DA will require about 40% more effort to correct the same blemish a rotary would correct and do it quicker though.

Both can use the same foam pad setup and polishes. The Flex 3401 is an excellent DA (best on the market) that has near rotary like power, but is a bit more expensive than say it's competitor the Porter Cable 7424 XP.

Flex has a variable speed trigger etc. Both have 6 speeds, but the equivelancy is like this. Speed 6 on the Flex 3401 would be like Speed 8.5 on the PC7424 if it had those speeds.

Rotaries though can correct deeper blemishes than a DA could though. So if you don't want to worry about possibly blemishing the paint you may wanna look at a DA.
 

John@Lethal

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Most importantly, if you've never had any machine polisher type experience, I wouldn't jump into a rotary unless you have something to practice on that has no type of consequence. I have heard of people buying hoods at a junk yard just to practice a rotary on.

If you're not intending on wet sanding, or doing anything intensive, you will more than likely get by well enough with any of the DA's. Flex, and the PC are probably the most popular, but the Griot's Garage polisher offers a lifetime warranty, and is the strongest. The big difference between the Griot's and Flex is that the Flex has forced rotation, making it almost impossible to apply too much pressure to force the machine to bog down, whereas the Griot's just has a stronger motor.

Stick with the mentioned machines, and you'll have some pretty surprising results. As you get more familiar with technique, you'll be confident enough to move to a rotary for more correction capabilities as needed.

Good Luck!
 

DeceptionGT/CS

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Being that the 3401 is still a DA, is it fairly user friendly in that it won't burn through the paint like the PC 7424?
 

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