Dubstep Shep's Build Thread

[Dubstep Shep]

Most likely all of the above. Bad ground and/or connection. It's what makes the most sense to me, especially since they all started at the same time.


P0182 - Fuel Temperature Sensor Circuit Low Input

- Faulty Fuel Temperature Sensor
- Fuel Temperature Sensor harness is open or shorted
- Fuel Temperature Sensor circuit poor electrical connection



P0193 - Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor Circuit High Input

- Low or no fuel
- Faulty Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor
- Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor harness is open or shorted
- Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor circuit poor electrical connection
- Faulty Fuel Pump

I know the general area the temp gauge problem is coming from. It was an issue stemming from the original wreck where a wiring connector near the fuse box was messed up and never fixed. During the DOB install, it actually shorted to ground and threw sparks. I removed the connector and permanently connected all the wires together. The issue went away after that. I can only assume with the same symptoms as before, that one of those connections broke loose. Not a uprising considering all the movement that harness has been subjected to recently.

As for the fuel codes, I'm not 100% on those. They could be codes left over from the sensors not being plugged in. I'll have to clear them and see if they come back. If they do come back I'll start by checking the voltage on the circuits and going from there.

 

[Dubstep Shep]

UPDATE 3/31/14

So I think the reverse lamp switch on my 6060 is bad. We put a multimeter up to it and the resistance over the switch doesn't change whether the car is in reverse or not.

Basically the switch is passing full voltage all the time and my reverse lights are always on.

That sound like a bad switch to you guys?

Edit: posted a thread in GT500 tech. Problem is solved!

 

[Department Of Boost]

So I think the reverse lamp switch on my 6060 is bad. We put a multimeter up to it and the resistance over the switch doesn't change whether the car is in reverse or not.

Basically the switch is passing full voltage all the time and my reverse lights are always on.

That sound like a bad switch to you guys?

Edit: posted a thread in GT500 tech.

Unplug wires, problem solved

 

[Dubstep Shep]

Unplug wires, problem solved

Hahaha that's how it is right now so I don't get pulled over!!

 

[RocketcarX]

I just see a used 3v...What did you prove? You said you were building a 1000 HP motor. Where is it?

 

[BlackWidowStang]

Now I typically don't post in this forum unless it is in PMing for information and knowledge.

Why call him out and then tell him to leave? And then also make another separate thread about it too? Not taking sides just calling how I see it.

 

[lee12609]

you actually didnt build a motor though. you bought and installed a motor. what you are doing is "building" a car i guess, but that has nothing to do with replacing the blown motor.

honestly, i have no clue who either of you are but you kind of make yourself look bad by calling people out online, in most situations anyways.

 

[JEWC_Motorsports]

Lee dont bring common sense into this thread....

 

[BlackWidowStang]

Then why mention it in the first place? Should have never posted about it in this thread and just made the other.

 

[stkjock]

Then why mention it in the first place? Should have never posted about it in this thread and just made the other.

Logic has no place on the Internet

 

[BlackWidowStang]

Hot damn you should learn to fucking read.


Take it to the other thread.

LOL

 

[RocketcarX]

It's posts like these that gave me my first impressions of you, Shep.

 

[07TGGT]

You didn't build the engine dumbass. You installed it, want a fucking cookie?

 

[cbass]

Does that mean I built my civic when I bought it with a cracked block and put a new one in? BUILT NOT BOUGHT!

 

[Dubstep Shep]

UPDATE 4/1/14

So turns out the reverse switch was bad. Basically it's a ball with a spring behind it, and the end of the shaft had been crimped somewhat, holding the ball in. New sensor and it works perfectly.


The rear brakes were one hell of a problem though.

I upgraded to the brembo four piston brakes, and also did new pads and stainless steel lines on the front and rear. Everything went really well on the install, but the rear brakes weren't working correctly.

I started taking them apart and used the screw tool to push the pistons back in, but they wouldn't budge an inch. After screwing with it for awhile, I finally took them off the car and found out my banjo bolts were hitting the piston because they were too long. Or rather, because the stainless steel lines had a thinner connector.

Couple of minutes later with the dremel, and the issue was solved.

 

[rcm90]

You didn't build the engine dumbass. You installed it, want a fucking cookie?

I bet he whittled the block from a solid chunk of aluminum with his Boy Scout knife..

 

[BadPiggy]

You didn't build the engine dumbass. You installed it, want a fucking cookie?

Would those be Oreo's by chance?
If so, I want one, too.

 

[BlackWidowStang]

OP derailed his own build thread lol.

 

[Dubstep Shep]

UPDATE 4/2/14

Called the dyno tuner today. He's available Friday, but I'm not sure if I'll have time. If not it'll be mid next week before he's available again.

Took the car out for a short drive after the brakes. The temp gauge was working, so it's definitely a wiring issue. Shouldn't be too hard to track down.

 

[JEWC_Motorsports]

Sweet i made it onto YOUR ignore list!!!!!!!!!!! What an accomplishment.