Engine stalls randomly

[WJBertrand]

It always happens when I'm going slowly and shifting between gears - suddenly the engine is dead! It starts back up immediately with the key and runs fine. It happens maybe once every three to four weeks, example pulling into a parking lot after slowing. I'm a little reluctant to take it to the dealer because it happens so infrequently I'm sure they would just tell me they couldn't find anything wrong.

I've not yet scanned for error codes, but there's no check engine light on. The car has the FRPP Pro-Cal Tune, but I've been running that tune for 10,000 miles without issue until recently. Don't know if the stalling is related to the tune or something else?

 

[KatoS197]

Are you running the factory air intake?

 

[Sky Render]

Check for codes. Just because a light isn't illuminated doesn't mean there aren't pending codes.

I had a similar problem on another vehicle, and it turned out to be a bad coil pack.

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Note 4 using Tapatalk

 

[KatoS197]

Well, if you are running the stock box, check to make sure the filter is seated and not torn in any way.

I was having similar issues to yours. Checked, cleaned the TB, checked the coil packs, plugs, etc. Even did a compression leak down check.

Ford Engineer looked at it and found that the filter was torn on one of the edges. The extra turbulence was enough to cause these issues. Never threw a code.

 

[WJBertrand]

Thanks for the advice. The car as a stock air box and OEM filter (no K&Ns for this kid) so I'll have a closer look at that. I was planning to do the code check as I'm aware they don't always set a MIL. The car has ~22K miles on it, doesn't use any oil and runs strong so I doubt it's anything mechanical.

 

[KatoS197]

No problem. Let us know what it was in case it's something different and someone else has these issues.

 

[lito]

Your TB is perfectly clean?

 

[WJBertrand]

Thanks guys, just checked for DTCs and there are none stored in the computer according to my OBD II scanner.

I have not looked at the TB, but then again, I've never cleaned it. Car only has about 22K miles on it? Worth having a look I suppose.

 

[kcobra]

I would try flashing the car back to stock and see if you still get the problem.

 

[5lho]

Check for vacuum leaks aft of the MAF. It this case that means airbox tubing, the connections for the PCV and the bleed for the power brakes. That's all the vac signal stuff there is on these cars, barring a manifold crack, gasket leak or injector seals, which are pretty unlikely but possible.

These cars aren't that touchy around clean TB at this power level but, open the throttle and wipe it out with a rag and MAF cleaner anyway, then go back up the path and spray the MAF clean, too. change the air filter while you are at it. The car will run rough if there is a significant leak here. I know this because I tested K&N panel, stock paper and no filter at the dragstrip a long time ago.

 

[Lucky_13]

I've had the same issue with my Procal tune. Crank relearn usually fixes it, and I've gotten into the habit of going through the procedure every 3-4 months. Hasn't happened since, used to happen on clutch-in deceleration, and was seemingly random. Considering switching to the 13-14 specific track cal, to see if the issue disappears.

I never had the other common issue (pinging) though, and the car is tracked frequently and hard (long sessions).

 

[WJBertrand]

I ran a bottle of techron through it and it hadn't stalled again until about a week ago. I'll try the crank re-learn thing, I suppose that's one of the choices on the Pro-Cal tuner? What's the difference between the Pro-Cal tune and the Track Cal?

 

[Macman45]

Yeah what the hell is the crank relearn?

 

[KatoS197]

I ran a bottle of techron through it and it hadn't stalled again until about a week ago. I'll try the crank re-learn thing, I suppose that's one of the choices on the Pro-Cal tuner? What's the difference between the Pro-Cal tune and the Track Cal?

Track-Cal has an alleged 60-ft.lb. increase at 1500 RPM, has launch control featuring a "2-step", Pit Lane Speed control, and the "cam tune" (lope).

Why it's only for 13-14 cars and not 11-14 beats me. I wish I could have it. I'll be getting a ProCal for now until my warranty goes out.

 

[WJBertrand]

Track-Cal has an alleged 60-ft.lb. increase at 1500 RPM, has launch control featuring a "2-step", Pit Lane Speed control, and the "cam tune" (lope).

Why it's only for 13-14 cars and not 11-14 beats me. I wish I could have it. I'll be getting a ProCal for now until my warranty goes out.

OK Thanks, the ProCal has the same 60 ft.lb. increase at 1500 RPM (along with a 9 ft.lb. net torque increase and +16 hp) but does not have the pit lane speed control or loping idle features. I don't think I'd use those features anyway.

 

[5lho]

The reason for Track Cal not being available for the 11-12 and early 13 cars is the late 13 and 14s have a dual path ECU and can support the tune and all its add ons.

I had a Procal on my old '12 and shoved the car into the 11s on a slick tire so, I was pretty pleased with that.

It's actually idle relearn. You can do this with the Procal tool or Ford can do it. Takes 2 minutes, tops. Crank profile relearns can only be done by the dealer or someone with VCM suite, as the potential for destruction here is high.

 

[WJBertrand]

OK idle re-learn. That sounds like it makes more sense. Hopefully I'll get some time this weekend to fiddle with it. Thanks

 

[Marble]

I think you should clean your throttle body.

 

[KatoS197]

The reason for Track Cal not being available for the 11-12 and early 13 cars is the late 13 and 14s have a dual path ECU and can support the tune and all its add ons.

That makes a lot of sense! Thanks for clarifying.

 

[BruceH]

OK idle re-learn. That sounds like it makes more sense. Hopefully I'll get some time this weekend to fiddle with it. Thanks

FWIW there are different idles for stopped, neutral, and driving (at least with a 3v). The ecu will self adjust the air flow trims but it takes a little while for it to learn them. The stopped idle gets learned the quickest but the neutral and driving idle don't get used as much or for as long so they take longer.

Whenever I do a reflash I try to idle while the car is moving at different speeds. Just push the clutch in and watch the tach. Giving the ecu more time at driving idle will help it determine the correct airflows at a time when vacuum isn't being used up by the brakes. At least that's my theory, lol. Any time I've had an issue like you are having it's with the clutch in followed pretty quickly with the brake pedal.

Like lito said it could be from the throttle body being just a little dirty. Specifically the blade area where it pivots on the body. The best way to clean it is to take it off and spray it down with tb cleaner wherever you see buildup. It's surprising how just a little buildup and dirt will make the blade a little sticky. The newer motors don't use an iac or other external control for bleeding air off during a decel like the older ones did, it's all controlled by the ecu.