Blue07GT
Junior Member
You know I was thinking maybe it was the pilot bearing, I've heard it doesn't hurt to change it especially since its only like $10, any inisght on this? Does it come with the kit? Thanks.
My kit also came with a new pilot bearing but I didn't change it because my car only has 8k miles on it. I just put a little fresh grease on it while I was in there.You know I was thinking maybe it was the pilot bearing, I've heard it doesn't hurt to change it especially since its only like $10, any inisght on this? Does it come with the kit? Thanks.
Alright,
I've done some searching and there isn't a whole lot of info on the Exedy Mach 400 clutch. What are your impressions? Is it a worth while clutch? Can they hold up to hard driving at the strip and on the street?(mostly street). I've got the normal bolt ons, CAI, Tune, CMCV Deletes, UDP's, Short Throw, LT's so I don't need anything like a Spec 3+ which would be way overkilled for my car, I don't expect to be doing anything else for a while, the next mod will be cams. I'm really leaning towards the Exedy as from what I have seen it is a good and reliable clutch. Is there anything you suggest I look out for? Thanks!
Anyone do shims when doing this?
Tiger,
Thats the Exedy 400? Or is it the 500? Your post says stage 2?
That's weird. The part number on mine is EXE-07952CSC (the same as yours) and it is a disk instead of a puck.http://www.race-mart.com/items/products/exedy-racing-clutch/EXE07952CSC-detail.htm
Part Number EXE-07952CSC The one I Have .........
Exedy Racing Clutch 07952CSC
Stage 2 Cerametallic Clutch Kit Ductile
Casting Thick Cer. Facing 265mm/10T/27.5 Spline Cushion Button
Disc Wheel Torq. Rating 650 lbs./ft. Incl. Hyd. Concentric Slave Cyl.
Clutch Cover Has Clamp Load 40% Above Genuine
Unique T5001 Carborich Metallic Material
Disc Has Less Inertia Than Stock
Designed To Handle More Abuse Than Stock Disc
Suitable For Street/Circuit/Drift And Rally
SFI Certified
Drivability Is Similar To Stock Clutch
Spring Center Dampers To Reduce Drive Train Shock
tigerhonaker
No Shims were needed or used because I changed Both the Clutch & Steel Flywheel to Exedy.Anyone do shims when doing this?
Don't take this as FACT.I used a new take off flywheel. I didn't use a shim. I hope I am OK. I told Chandler at Brenspeed what flywheel I was using and he didn't mention any shims. I do know that you need a shim if you use an Exedy disk with the factory pressure plate because it is thicker than the factory disk. That's what Roush does with their P51 clutch. I am almost positive that I read somewhere that you didn't need any shims if you used the Exedy pp and matching disk with a factory flywheel. What kind of problems would I be having if I did in fact need a shim? Right now my clutch feels great.
Karl,Well, that makes me feel better...lol I also replaced the cheesy plastic hydraulic line. I went with the JPC braided one. Everything worked out great. By the way, how do you like the lightweight flywheel? I wasn't too sure about it. That's why I did not get it. I know some people don't like them for some reason.
Thanks Terry, that makes sense. So I guess that the Exedy steel flywheel is still heavy enough to work well with the 281. When I go forged, I may consider getting one. I have got to buy an 8 bolt flywheel then anyway.Karl,
Here is the deal on that.
They are not referring I don't think to the Exedy Lightweight Steel Flywheel.
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They are talking about running the Aluminum Flywheels.
On the street the Aluminum Flywheel is NOT as easy to take off with from Stops.
The reason is, it has No-Weight to help with the Torque for take off.
Especially with our 281 Cubic Inch 4.6 Engines.
We don't have enough motor to have real high Torque.
So a Steel Flywheel with it's weight helps to off set the smaller engines that don't have a lot of Torque for take off.
Example a 454 Cubic Inch Chevy Engine Stock is so large it has Torque.
Compare that to our Small 281 Cubic Inch Engine.
Major difference in Cubic Inches so the preferred flywheel for a DD (Daily Driver) is Steel for our engine size.
Something that helps greatly with running the lighter Aluminum Flywheels is running Lower Gears in the Rear End.
Example:
Mustangs have like 3:31 stock and if they were changed to 4:10 Gears it
would be much easier to take off with a Lighter Flywheel.
Something else to consider running an Aluminum Flywheel is it is Harder on your Clutch as you have to SLIP it more to take off from a Stop.
Hope this helps with the bigger picture of flywheels on street Mustangs.
Terry
Boner! Gonna order the 500 and flywheel on Friday!
Your gonna like it. From what I understand, the 500 and 600 feel about the same. I never really liked the way the factory clutch felt. My Exedy has a firm but not harsh pedal. Maybe 20% stiffer than stock if I had to guess. The engagement is solid and predictable. I can "feel" the clutch operation much better than before if that makes sense. Of course that may have something to do with the JPC braided hydraulic line I put in there with it. I noticed a very slight chatter when I first put it in if I engaged it at low rpm but now that I have about 400 miles on it, that's gone. This clutch is so smooth and easy I have a hard time believing it can handle 650 ft lbs. It's simply amazing to me.I just did too. It goes in tomorrow. BBR told me that they have Spec, Centerforce, and McCloud (sp?) clutches sitting on the shelf that they cant get rid of and every time an Exedy shipment comes in, they are gone!.
I'm kinda excited to get ahold of it tomorrow and test it out.