Faster reaction times

kbchevlvr

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2006 gt
auto with 3000 convertor
tune and cai.
15" stars with 26x10 slicks (car flat hooks)
spydershaft
msd 2-step @ 2600

looking to improve reaction times on pro tree.
im hitting tree good

best is .120 green on 500 pro tree in this car
the other car i drive is a 68 chevelle similar times and 60 fts. and i can go .020 on same tree.

will tube control arms with poly bushings help? eliminate flexing? or the fact that it flat hooks elimantes the benefits of the control arms.

thoughts?
 

FnSweet06

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I dont think its in the mod's is it? More in the driver and learning the timing of the lights and when to take off.
 

kbchevlvr

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Deep stage.

yeah..thats an option, i just need to be able to pick up a tenth in e.t. to compensate. im running the car in a index style race. car needs to run 13.00's. which it is shallow staged with 2 bumps extra. just aint enough power to get her to go 12.90 right now.
 

kbchevlvr

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I dont think its in the mod's is it? More in the driver and learning the timing of the lights and when to take off.

the faster i can 60 ft the better the reaction times should be. but i was wondering basically if anyone has done any testing on the lca with poly bushings in order to determine that there is no flexing or anything else that might make the car faster reacting.

with the 2 step i have the car set at 2600 rpm, and the throttle is floored in order to eliminate the drive by wire deal. just release the brake (wired the 2step to release off of the brake lights) and off she goes.

i drove 2 cars over the weeknd set up on the same index, with comparable 60 fts. like i said it was a PRO TREE (one flash of all lights and go). in the one car (chevelle) i was .020 to .040. in the mustang reacting to the same tree i was in the .100's. i am pretty sure its the car being slower somewhere. be it suspension, or power or combination of.

just thought maybe someone might have figured something good out.
 

US-1

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It is not the bushings. It is a combination of many things in the S197 suspension, weight transfer, automatic transmission, and throttle response.

Is there any weight you can take out of the car?
 

Hawgman

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Mainline methamphetamines. That usually sharpens the senses.
 

kbchevlvr

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It is not the bushings. It is a combination of many things in the S197 suspension, weight transfer, automatic transmission, and throttle response.

Is there any weight you can take out of the car?

i did take the shaker 1000 system out and the spare tire stuff. the auto trans has a good 3000 stall in the car. throttle response has been eliminated, becasue the car is full throttle before launching with the 2-step. i did notice ALOT of suspension movement, which is whati was hoping for direction on...is anyone doing anything to tame suspension movement?
 

ChevyKiller

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If you sharpen your RT's - you certainly don't need to deep stage on a .5 pro tree. Keep your eye on the top 3 ambers only, don't even glance at the green.

When you see any hint of color...take off.
 

kbchevlvr

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If you sharpen your RT's - you certainly don't need to deep stage on a .5 pro tree. Keep your eye on the top 3 ambers only, don't even glance at the green.

When you see any hint of color...take off.

if i thought it were driver error i would certainly address that first. the same day driving 2 entirely different cars...consistantly i was .020's or so green in one car. in the mustang i was consistantly in the .100's. which is why im leaning towards modifying the car. i know all of the tricks of adding or subtracting tire pressure. or even turning the wheel a touch so the car leaves the beams on an angle to slow down reaction times. etc etc. im not trying to sound like a know it all, i am just pretty sure it is that the car is slower reacting than other cars that i drive. that is why i thought someone might know of tricks for these cars specifically.
 

Bkid

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Watch the light very closely, 2nd yellow hit it.
 

06vistabluegt

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Watch the light very closely, 2nd yellow hit it.
Hmm,the 2nd light would be green, if you're seeing green you're way too late. On a Sportman tree, if you leave on the 2nd light, you're way too early.
 

kbchevlvr

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Hmm,the 2nd light would be green, if you're seeing green you're way too late. On a Sportman tree, if you leave on the 2nd light, you're way too early.


funny you say that. on a regular sportsman tree i can be in the teens all day with this car leaving on the sight of 2nd yellow.

the car allthough seems to be running good now. 1.87 - 60's it just takes a while for the car to get to the point of moving forward. once moving it it is fine, its just getting it to react.
 

06vistabluegt

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funny you say that. on a regular sportsman tree i can be in the teens all day with this car leaving on the sight of 2nd yellow.

the car allthough seems to be running good now. 1.87 - 60's it just takes a while for the car to get to the point of moving forward. once moving it it is fine, its just getting it to react.

Wow, if I left on the 2nd light in my car I'd be red by .2 every time. I leave as soon as the 3rd yellow comes on. I get consistent .520's. (.500 is perfect at my track).

I raced my Saturn Ion a few times last year, I tried leaving on the 2nd yellow in that car and still would red light. I started deep staging it and leaving on the 3rd yellow.
 

kbchevlvr

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Wow, if I left on the 2nd light in my car I'd be red by .2 every time. I leave as soon as the 3rd yellow comes on. I get consistent .520's. (.500 is perfect at my track).

I raced my Saturn Ion a few times last year, I tried leaving on the 2nd yellow in that car and still would red light. I started deep staging it and leaving on the 3rd yellow.

maybe because mine is an automatic?
 

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