Finally...1.39 60' launch!

dysan

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dysan

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Thanks...I wish I could keep the power where it was this past weekend but the blower makes too much heat and I don't like having to deal with ice every run. I need my car consistent since I bracket race.

I need to also put a little more pre-load on the anti-roll bar to level it out more.
 

psfracer

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Thats an awesome pic. I would be buying that one and getting it framed. Did you change the combo any?

 
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BMR Tech

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Congrats!

From the looks of the launch, that car has a 1.35 in it, for sure.

Keep up the good work.
 

dysan

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Thats an awesome pic. I would be buying that one and getting it framed. Did you change the combo any?
Combo as far as my last best on the board?? Then very much so. My old 10.259 had a lower compression engine(10:1), no drag shocks or springs, more boost than this run and the cams were locked full advance.

The car now has an 11:1 iron block, same 127300 cams but with 6* retard(still locked out), Lakewood 90/10's up front and 50/50's in the back, older style cobra jet springs all around and I have the BMR Extreme Anti Roll bar.

Dang!! Looks awesome man

Thanks!

Congrats!

From the looks of the launch, that car has a 1.35 in it, for sure.

Keep up the good work.

I seriously doubt I could get a 1.35 until I get weight out of the car and a higher stall converter. In the above picture the car with me in it weighs over 3900lbs!

I should be getting a trailer very soon and then the car will come off the road completely. That's when I can really start saving weight..I have a lightweight VFN pin on hood to put on, get rid of the back half of the exhaust, lose the Evap crap, get rid of the stereo, door subs and speakers, heater box/core, passenger seat, etc. I'd like to get a few 100lbs out.
 

BMR Tech

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I seriously doubt I could get a 1.35 until I get weight out of the car and a higher stall converter. In the above picture the car with me in it weighs over 3900lbs!

I should be getting a trailer very soon and then the car will come off the road completely. That's when I can really start saving weight..I have a lightweight VFN pin on hood to put on, get rid of the back half of the exhaust, lose the Evap crap, get rid of the stereo, door subs and speakers, heater box/core, passenger seat, etc. I'd like to get a few 100lbs out.

In your picture, it appears that you are wasting energy. That is why I believe it has more in it. A good (low / quick) sixty foot time is not only about the tires achieving traction.

For example, when our car cuts 1.3X it is very drama free. The tires do not come off the ground. It just shoots straight and forward.

So - If I were you, I would shorten the driver side link on the ARB slightly...and I would try to shorten that IC up a little (drop the UCA down, or the LCA - depending on what parts you have)

Good luck!
 

dysan

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In your picture, it appears that you are wasting energy. That is why I believe it has more in it. A good (low / quick) sixty foot time is not only about the tires achieving traction.

For example, when our car cuts 1.3X it is very drama free. The tires do not come off the ground. It just shoots straight and forward.

So - If I were you, I would shorten the driver side link on the ARB slightly...and I would try to shorten that IC up a little (drop the UCA down, or the LCA - depending on what parts you have)

Good luck!

Gotcha. I would have to change my UCA mount to lower it. I have the basic UPR one which has the one hole for the '05-10 S197 and the other hole forward if I remember correctly for the late model S197's.

One more thing...won't shortening the driver's side link be the wrong way? I thought I want to lengthen that one which will try to push that tire up and pull the passenger side down.

My biggest worry is that my car is very nose heavy with the iron block and E-force blower so it may need the front end lift for weight transfer. I won't know until I try though.

I appreciate you input and will look into trying that.
 
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BMR Tech

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If the car pulls and rolls to the right, you shorten the left.

In easier words....when looking at your picture, what will straighten the launch out? Lengthening the passenger side, or shortening the driver side. Right?

What LCA Relocation brackets are you using?
 
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psfracer

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I have a lightweight VFN pin on hood to put on,

Do you have a link or pic of the one you are going with?

If the car pulls and rolls to the right, you shorten the left.

In easier words....when looking at your picture, what will straighten the launch out? Lengthening the passenger side, or shortening the driver side. Right?

What LCA Relocation brackets are you using?

I remember the first time I adjusted mine, and got it backwards. The car lifted one side so much it cut the tire on the launch. FAIL. haha. Now it leaves like the 3rd and 4th pic below.
 

dysan

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If the car pulls and rolls to the right, you shorten the left.

In easier words....when looking at your picture, what will straighten the launch out? Lengthening the passenger side, or shortening the driver side. Right?

What LCA Relocation brackets are you using?

My car launches straight as an arrow and doesn't veer in either direction..I just have the torque twist on the launch. Correct me if I'm wrong but what the anti roll bar is there to accomplish is to keep the passenger tire and the driver's side tire essentially squatting the same on the launch so the car is level. That would mean to me that I need the passenger side to be pulled down away from the body since it gets thrown up towards the body from the torque and the driver's side gets pushed down into the ground by the torque so I would want to push that one up towards the car.

To me that all means that I must either shorten the passenger side link thus pulling down on that axle tube or lengthen the driver's side to push that one up towards the chassis.

Do you have a link or pic of the one you are going with?



I remember the first time I adjusted mine, and got it backwards. The car lifted one side so much it cut the tire on the launch. FAIL. haha. Now it leaves like the 3rd and 4th pic below.

ArtQ gave me the one he never put on..it is the stock style one. Even though they only have pictures of their extended one, it looks just like the pictures below but stock length.

2005mustangflatext.jpg

2005mustangflatbot.jpg
 
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Give a detailed list of what suspension parts you have . I'm considering doing some stuff to achieve a 1.4 with my 700 rwhp turbo car and need some input. I like the ride of the car . I don't want to compromise ride quality. Can i run stock lowers and uppers.
 

BMR Tech

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My car launches straight as an arrow and doesn't veer in either direction..I just have the torque twist on the launch. Correct me if I'm wrong but what the anti roll bar is there to accomplish is to keep the passenger tire and the driver's side tire essentially squatting the same on the launch so the car is level. That would mean to me that I need the passenger side to be pulled down away from the body since it gets thrown up towards the body from the torque and the driver's side gets pushed down into the ground by the torque so I would want to push that one up towards the car.

To me that all means that I must either shorten the passenger side link thus pulling down on that axle tube or lengthen the driver's side to push that one up towards the chassis.

Well, technically.....if the car goes straight as an arrow - then you don't need to adjust the ARB. I recommend setting the ARB to neutral, and adjusting preload based on the car pulling to the left, or right.

In your case - it looks as if you may need to step up to a more aggressive ARB - with shorter arms and all bearings. OR, you could replace your ARB bushings with Delrin pieces. You would have to make them, though.

That said, you can also partially eliminate the roll you have with more anit-squat and stiffer shocks settings.

As for the roll in relation to the ARB adjustment, I already posted it above. The issue is, when doing that - you are going to cause the car to steer left or right based on what you do (what side you preload)

I think you need a more aggressive ARB, or replace the bushings in it.

Good luck!
 

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