rford426
Resident 5.0 H8R
beautiful man looks amazing hope it all goes well this go around!
Going For 800 Rwhp
- Thread starter 05stroker
- Start date
ZmanM3
The Evil One
You sure do have a pretty engine bay.
05stroker
Never enough power guy!
It has to! Lol
Thanks, at this point I'd like to see a lot less of it though.
Back@itagain
Member
Any thought for check valves on each of the lines going from the fuel hat to the Y block? According to the Walbro tech I spoke to their pumps have internal check valves but I would assume in this case it melted away clearing a path of least resistance for fuel to return to the tank...just a theory
05stroker
Never enough power guy!
The way this pump looked, I dont think it was letting anything back into the tank. It was fubared.
Back@itagain
Member
The way this pump looked, I dont think it was letting anything back into the tank. It was fubared.
Yeah...I just couldn't see from the picture if there was a possible route in the dark area of the lower portion of the pump.
one eyed willy
Pizzle fo shizzle
damn.....good thing the car didnt catch on fire...thats ALOT of heat to melt all that!
Cal26Stang
Member
How did the pump get melted that bad??! that's insane
05stroker
Never enough power guy!
Yea, that would have been bad!
Not sure? It may be from the way the MSD BAPs are wired. I have two 30 amp BAPs wired together with one large wire that powers all three pumps. I am calling MSD tech today to try to figure it out.
I called MSD today and they confirmed that the way my BAPs are wired is fine for this setup. What I did was take two MSD BAPs (30a each) and wire them both with batt. power though a 60a Bosch relay with the fac. inertia switch as the trigger wire, then I wired the output from the BAPs together and out to the fuel pumps with one wire to the three pumps. Doing it this way will allow for a 60a draw on the BAPs with no issue. (though I may only see 30-40a)
So, still not sure why the pump failed in such a bad way.
Last edited by a moderator:
toorbeenee
turbine lunatic
i still have one fuel pump in the tank feeding the surge tank, that fuel pump has been there for the past 3 years, with no load on it.
those fuel pumps have the most load, but still they are out and i can fix them/change them whenever i want.
05stroker
Never enough power guy!
What is a surge tank for,and how does the two pumps pictured connect to the fuel tank?
toorbeenee
turbine lunatic
I'll type when I get home I can't type with the iPhone
05stroker
Never enough power guy!
Here is some updates from today. I wanted to due some testing before trying to start the car.
First here is a thread from today about my siphon issue.
http://s197forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=83729
Next here is the new pump installed in the hat and the ground wire to the third pump is separated so it can be wired to a Hobbs switch tomorrow morning to come on at 10 psi.
Next is the engine being primed. I went ahead and put all 7.5 quarts in via the sprayer. The cheap Fram filters are for flushing the motor only and the first one will be changed after startup and then the oil will be changed with another Fram filter for a couple miles of driving and then the Moroso filter will go back on with fresh oil after maybe 20 miles or so.
I then started the testing of the vac. lines. I rigged up a unit to test the lines with my compressor. Here is the unit.
I then started to add the air. At about 15 psi I started to here a leak. I found it here and tightened up the banjo fitting and the leak went away. This could be the reason for the odd function of the WG. It works great now and opens via the air pressure at 17 psi.
Then I cranked the pressure up. At about 30 psi I can here air starting to pass the WG. I tested to 42 psi and everything held fine. All vac. lines are zip tied and tight.
Need to wire up the Hobbs switch to the third pump and resolder the fuel pump wires in the morning, then double check everything and start.
First here is a thread from today about my siphon issue.
http://s197forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=83729
Next here is the new pump installed in the hat and the ground wire to the third pump is separated so it can be wired to a Hobbs switch tomorrow morning to come on at 10 psi.
Next is the engine being primed. I went ahead and put all 7.5 quarts in via the sprayer. The cheap Fram filters are for flushing the motor only and the first one will be changed after startup and then the oil will be changed with another Fram filter for a couple miles of driving and then the Moroso filter will go back on with fresh oil after maybe 20 miles or so.
I then started the testing of the vac. lines. I rigged up a unit to test the lines with my compressor. Here is the unit.
I then started to add the air. At about 15 psi I started to here a leak. I found it here and tightened up the banjo fitting and the leak went away. This could be the reason for the odd function of the WG. It works great now and opens via the air pressure at 17 psi.
Then I cranked the pressure up. At about 30 psi I can here air starting to pass the WG. I tested to 42 psi and everything held fine. All vac. lines are zip tied and tight.
Need to wire up the Hobbs switch to the third pump and resolder the fuel pump wires in the morning, then double check everything and start.
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toorbeenee
turbine lunatic
^^looking all good,
back to the Q you asked about my setup,
what is a surge tank?
A surge tank is an important part of any turbo's fuel system as it stops your engine from starving of fuel. Under harsh driving fuel is thrown from side to side of a fuel tank and this can leave the fuel pick up sucking in air rather than fuel. A surge tank however enables your pump to continuously suck up fuel and never have to worry about starving your engine of fuel.
i have one fuel pump in the tank feeding the surge tank, once the surge tank is full, it goes back to the main fuel tank,(under wot i use half of the surge tank but it fills up very fast)
from the 2 pumps there is T connector that feeds fuel to the fuel rail, with a regulator, and a returne line to the surge tank.
any more Q ill be more than happy to answer
back to the Q you asked about my setup,
what is a surge tank?
A surge tank is an important part of any turbo's fuel system as it stops your engine from starving of fuel. Under harsh driving fuel is thrown from side to side of a fuel tank and this can leave the fuel pick up sucking in air rather than fuel. A surge tank however enables your pump to continuously suck up fuel and never have to worry about starving your engine of fuel.
i have one fuel pump in the tank feeding the surge tank, once the surge tank is full, it goes back to the main fuel tank,(under wot i use half of the surge tank but it fills up very fast)
from the 2 pumps there is T connector that feeds fuel to the fuel rail, with a regulator, and a returne line to the surge tank.
any more Q ill be more than happy to answer
05stroker
Never enough power guy!
Thanks!
05stroker
Never enough power guy!
Worked thru some fuel system issues today.
http://s197forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=83729
Also tested the fuel system and lines. Everything is good. I will give her a crank tomorrow evening. Here is what I came up with for the fuel system issues.
I have two pumps running with the key on and the third one comes on at 10 psi. The baps are disconnected but still in place so they can be hooked up later to come on around 20 psi if needed and maybe will be done anyhow later for further safety at 20 psi. I have tested the fuel system with the key on engine off and all is well. I have also tested the third pump with compressor air with the key on and engine off and the third pump comes in as it should at 10 psi. With the engine off the FP goes from 55 psi to 70 psi when the third pump comes on. We are moving some fuel without the baps for sure. Seems if the triple pump setup is used a -8 return line should be used for all pumps to be ran at once from start.
Not sure why the rail gauge and my Auto meter gauge in the car read different but I will look into that after the car is started.
http://s197forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=83729
Also tested the fuel system and lines. Everything is good. I will give her a crank tomorrow evening. Here is what I came up with for the fuel system issues.
I have two pumps running with the key on and the third one comes on at 10 psi. The baps are disconnected but still in place so they can be hooked up later to come on around 20 psi if needed and maybe will be done anyhow later for further safety at 20 psi. I have tested the fuel system with the key on engine off and all is well. I have also tested the third pump with compressor air with the key on and engine off and the third pump comes in as it should at 10 psi. With the engine off the FP goes from 55 psi to 70 psi when the third pump comes on. We are moving some fuel without the baps for sure. Seems if the triple pump setup is used a -8 return line should be used for all pumps to be ran at once from start.
Not sure why the rail gauge and my Auto meter gauge in the car read different but I will look into that after the car is started.
Mike K
WANNA BE FAST
Looking good. Your engine bay is a thing of beauty.
05stroker
Never enough power guy!
Well, I fired it up tonight. I have popping in the exhaust. Not sure whats up, I just know I'm not starting it again till I pull the valve covers. I know for a fact the cam timing is good and I have metal tensioners . I also primed the motor with 7.5 quarts of oil before starting , so I know there is no way it jumped a tooth or anything like that.
The o2 sensor look off from each other on the data logs. (those have been sent to Lito)
With all that said, what else would make the exhaust pop at idle. Lash adjusters, follower off, coils, damaged o2 sensors from the oil when the motor blew?
The o2 sensor look off from each other on the data logs. (those have been sent to Lito)
With all that said, what else would make the exhaust pop at idle. Lash adjusters, follower off, coils, damaged o2 sensors from the oil when the motor blew?
MindIfISmoke?
Wrecking Crew
Popping from running rich? Shit mines done it a couple times.
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