Help with new list of mods

ILW84U

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I am going forward with my next major mod & need some opinions. It's time to increase the boost & a motor that will handle it is a must. My current mods are in my sig. Below is the list I have come up with. I know I can get away with not doing heads & cams but I only want to do this once.

Livernois 298 Stroker shortblock
Livernois CNC Stage 3 heads
BBR Stage 2 camshaft
COMP Cams Cam Phaser Limiter Kit
FRPP GT500 Dual fuel pump
60# fuel injectors
26 spline input shaft
BMR tubular K member (lowering)
ARH long tube headers with catted H pipe
Spec 3+ clutch
Spec steel flywheel

Am I missing something on my list?

BBR list two different stage 2 cams on their site, billet & regrinds. Which would be my better choice?

With the current vendor special from Livernois, I want to get my order in soon. :beer:
 

Flaks05GT

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I see a few things you may want to add to your list IMHO
Boost-A-Pump for your new twins.
Coil Packs..more than likely your stock will fault under those conditions.
Better chalk up some 8ans fuel lines with inline filter cuz them twins are gonna be hungry..lol
I am sure I'll come up with some more later.
 

DirtyDogOfTheDesert

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Good list there Rick.

I recommend the full lockouts, and not the limters.
Regrinds will save you some money over the billet cams, and performance will be the same, as they are the same spec.

Depending how far you want to up the boost, that fuel system will be enough. I did end up just recently having to add a dual BAP to my GT500 system, still on stock lines and rails. I'm spinning my P1-SC-1 to 18psi now.
Coil packs are a waste of money. My stock ignition is working just fine.

Where do you think you'll get a 26spline input shaft? They are not just available off the shelf. I've been down that road, and Promotion Powertrain will not sell me the parts, and they insist on me sending my tranny to them, for them to build it. If you decide to do that, then I would look at a factory Shelby twindisc clutch. Better drivablity than the Spec 3+, and still with lots of holding power, although more money.

The BMR K-member is also cool, but there is no need for the lowering one. I have the standard one in my car.

Brian
 
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ILW84U

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I was hoping for a few more responses. Anyone having clearance problems with the lowiring BMR K member? I don't need the hood clearance but it will probably help if I have to pull the tranny again. Last time I had to tilt the engine toward the back.
 

DirtyDogOfTheDesert

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When I did my tranny swap last month I went pretty smooth, with the engine in the factory location. With the Procharger tubing and everything still attached up front, the front of engine want to tilt forward a bit. I just used a rachet strap around the headers, to pull the back of the motor down a bit, and it went slick and easy.

With all that said, I don't think there really is a down side to using the lowering K-member. I just don't think you really need it either. Look to see how close to the sway bar is to the lower pulley. There may be an issue with that.
 

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