How can I lower my temps (water/oil)?

[tmcolegr]

Bruce take a very close look at the snout of the crankshaft where the oil pump inner gear is driven. Check it for any burrs or a wear shoulder from the previous oil pump that may have prevented the inner gear of the oil pump from sitting squarely (perpendicular) on the shout of the crankshaft. If the inner gear of the oil pump was cocked during installation of the oil pump, the gear could have orbited as it rotated creating those gouges in the oil pump cover and creating a sharp lip on the gear.

 

[psfracer]

I have a 160* from BBR. However, to eliminate any questions about the engine temp leading to this cause I identified at exactly what point I started to have this failure and it was well below normal operating temps. With that finding I know it's not an engine cooling problem. Which I also think I have fixed.

Yeah that is why I was saying I don't know if what you see is significant enough to cause these problems. Did you compare it to my stock pump? How do they compare?

One thing to do (in my opinion) is do one thing at a time to diagnose the problem. I would change the oil pump to my stock one (since it was known to work fine) and put everything back together to see if it makes any difference. That way you can eliminate the oil pump as a potential problem.

Another thing you can do pretty easily is check all of the plugs, see if you see anything weird going on there. You can also do a compression check very easily to.

 

[Greg Hazlett]

Really...huh....never thought to look into the Xcal 3 for those adjustments! Thanks!

 

[Boozshey]

Bruce take a very close look at the snout...

Checked it out. Everything looks good and I don't feel anything. Feels smooth all the way around.

Yeah that is why I was saying I don't know if what you see is significant...

Fighting this damn bottom pickup tube bolt. I am not sure I will be able to get it back on... :/

Really...huh....never thought to look into the Xcal 3 for those adjustments! Thanks!

As long as your tuner left those options open for you, you should be able to adjust it.

 

[Boozshey]

Good News and Bad News....

Good news, I got everything back together again.

Bad news, I think there is still a problem. It was a lot cooler tonight (thunder storm rolling in) so I don't want to say for certain. Water temp was 180, oil temp was 150, oil pressure 25. However at higher RPM's the oil pressure was in the 50 range. After the car was warmed up and driven about 3 miles the car would hesitate coming out of the upper RPM range to a neutral idle begin to buckle drop it's RPM's to 300 and try and stall.

I think I am going to have the tune looked at, the stalling shouldn't be happening coming out of a neutral idle. So I really want to get that fixed and then mess with the oil pressure some more.

 

[one eyed willy]

how long you letting it warm up,mine bucks like a bronco till it gets 180-190

 

[Boozshey]

Well it started to rain so I went home. I really want to run it in hotter weather... More to come.

 

[Boozshey]

Made 2 discoveries tonight. 1 - My oil temp gauge is off by 40* compared to the oil temp reading on the datalog. It's showing 40* cooler btw. 2- I'm blowing this shit up!!!

Anyways, so I made a really long datalog. It's a cooler night so it took a while longer to heat up. Which made this a perfect test. Again I will say it starts to run like shit as soon as it gets to what my gauge shows as 150* which in reality is 190*. As soon as I saw that I headed back to the house. I pulled to a stop light and saw the RPM's drop. I then threw two codes, I don't know if they came at the same time or what but they are P0022 and P0345. Both are camshaft codes which my guess is being caused when the RPM's drop taking the oil pressure with it.

Anyways that's where it stands. I am still trying to get a hold of my tuner. I had this same sort of problem when I had the thumpr cams and he was able to fix it right away in the tune. So right now I am going to leave it until he gets a chance to look it over. After that I will know that's all set and it is something else.

Any thoughts... Datalog attached...

 

[one eyed willy]

so how do you know which gauge is accurate....i remember someone telling you to pull the sensor out and test it.........

 

[Boozshey]

How do I know which is accurate. Well the water temp gauge it spot on with the vehicle is reading.

The oil temp sensor in the oil pan is brand new. Wouldn't what the car be reading be the accurate reading over what autometer is reading?

 

[one eyed willy]

not sure unless you remove one and test it with a thermometer.i wouldnt trust the factory 100%.....another reason for the different temps may be the location of the sensors, isnt the factory sensor sitting in the pan and you autometer is at the filter?

 

[hammeron]

well i'm glad the oil temperature sensor is now wired up, the readings from it look good and now we have a better idea of what's really happening with the oil.

i don't see anything that jumps out from the datalog, hopefully Lito will have a chance to look at it for you.

it is looking more tune related, as time goes on.

 

[Boozshey]

isnt the factory sensor sitting in the pan and you autometer is at the filter?

Yes that is the correct locations.

it is looking more tune related, as time goes on.

Thanks for taking the time to look it over. I don't know a ton about tuning and how to read the charts perfectly. I had my tuner give me a quick crash course on reading them and pretty much when it comes to a lot of things as long as the o2's banks are pretty close then you know there isn't a problem with a cylinder missing or anything like that.

I sent the datalog to BBR to see what Chris says.

 

[hammeron]

what's leading me to think tune, is the fact that you say the engine pretty much always starts running bad when it gets to around the same temperature. it seems that if it were a hardware or sensor problem, it would
happen at other temperatures as well, at least once in awhile.

 

[Boozshey]

what's leading me to think tune, is the fact that you say the engine pretty much always starts running bad when it gets to around the same temperature. it seems that if it were a hardware or sensor problem, it would
happen at other temperatures as well, at least once in awhile.

It starts running good, not bad. But yes, all other things are correct. I was also looking at the oil temp in the data log. The temps level off at 204-205* which tells me that it's doing some sort of cooling or it seems that temp would continue to climb.

I finally got ahold of Brian from EFI Unlimited who will make a house call tomorrow and we will do a driveability tune on it. If I get all the main issues worked out then, I will drop in the 127550 cams, have him make another house call, followed up by a Dyno tune. More to come tomorrow...

 

[RRRoamer]

It is passively cooled. The oil in the pan dumps heat to the air. Plus, the oil also dumps some heat to the water cooled block as well.

 

[one eyed willy]

what did you figure out on the tss pump.....is it bad? was the large hex head plug looking thing nice and tight? that plug basicly controls your pressure!!

 

[Boozshey]

I will check it out tonight. I honestly am not sure if it was the problem. Until I get the car running smooth through a tune i don't want to say I know exactly what it is.

So I will know more tomorrow.

 

[94tbird]

not sure if this is related or not, but with the LarryH motor i would see 180-190 al lthe time on coolant. with the new motor i see 190-220. outside temps are in the high 80s low 90s and humidity has been horrible. But im also retuning so I dont know what the fans are set to right now either. whats a normal operating temp? I have a meziere EH2O pump and a fluidyne rad. the only other difference is the trans cooler is in front of the rad now where i didnt have that with the manual trans, obviously

 

[Boozshey]

Wasn't able to get my tuner to my house. We are shooting for Monday morning.