How do my spark plugs look?

[Miker]

His are the plugs for the new style heads from mid year 2008. I don't think they are going to break.

 

[steinbergjonny]

His are the plugs for the new style heads from mid year 2008. I don't think they are going to break.

They didn't! All but one came out real easy... 1 was pretty snug but some wd40 loosened it right up.

 

[Midlife Crises]

You don’t need to smear antiseize all over that style plug. I just use a very small amount on the threads and torque them to 14 Ft. Lbs.

 

[07 Boss]

You don’t need to smear antiseize all over that style plug. I just use a very small amount on the threads and torque them to 14 Ft. Lbs.

Yeah the newer plugs do not need anti-seize. I wouldn't put any on the threads, it's not necessary. But I always thought the torque spec for the 3v was 21-22 ft/lbs? Anyways I just hand tighten and then give them a little bump to snug it up but I don't ever think I have actually used a torque wrench.

 

[JC SSP]

Steel threads and aluminum heads sounds like a good place for anti-seize to me, it cant hurt.

 

[Miker]

Steel threads and aluminum heads sounds like a good place for anti-seize to me, it cant hurt.

Just make sure not to use a torque wrench if applying anything that lubricates the threads unless the torque spec specifically states to use anti seize.

 

[Midlife Crises]

Just make sure not to use a torque wrench if applying anything that lubricates the threads unless the torque spec specifically states to use anti seize.

Like I said, a very small dab of aluminum based antiseize on the threads and use a torque wrench set to 14 Ft Lbs. I have used NGK and Brisk plugs sense my first mod in 2010 without incident. The spark plugs do not stick to or gaul the threads and they do not come loose by themselves. I inspect my plugs periodically for deposits and ware. Clean the ground post with a stainless steel wire brush and electric motor cleaner. Never touch the porcelain insulator with a metal brush of any kind because it can transfer metal to the porcelain.

 

[Pentalab]

When threads are lubricated, you only require 60% as much torque. I see this all the time with fasteners. When they list tq specs, they have 2 x columns.....marked ...'wet'...and 'dry'. The wet is always aprx 60% of the dry spec.

 

[Autokyrios]

Just replace them. Don't mess around. Plugs are cheap and if you've already gone through taking original plugs out, after 16 years, it's time anyway. Normally the rule of thumb is if the plugs aren't a problem, leave them alone (sub 120k-ish) but if you take them out for any reason, drop kick them into the trash can and put in some nice new ones. Not worth "cleaning" them. Autolites are like $12 and Brisks are like $18 a pop. Put in a better plug (and if $140 is a crunch it shouldn't have been messed with for no reason).

 

[GriffX]

When threads are lubricated, you only require 60% as much torque. I see this all the time with fasteners. When they list tq specs, they have 2 x columns.....marked ...'wet'...and 'dry'. The wet is always aprx 60% of the dry spec.

At least I know for NGK plugs that they have a special metal coat on the thread and you should not use anti-seize on them.

 

[brasil]

changed the plugs yesterday. was fairly easy.. about one hour and a half. Noticed that the car runs much better now. Even when the plugs were not really worn. But need to say, that my Mustang has the newer style plugs. All of the Bullitts had the redesigned one piece SP 509 plugs.
the torque was 9 ftlbs or 12 NM ! The torque number come from the Original Ford Manual for 2008 Mustangs.
The older plugs use a much higher torque. So it is important to keep yourself well informed if you have the black boots (older coil with 2 piece plugs ) or the brown ( newer coil one piece plug )