I think it's a little bit of both option 1 and 2 to be honest, but I think it came from ford that way, since all the suspension on this car is original stock crap.Uh a Sunday morning mystery, I like that.
The bolt is a 10,9, they rust, but not as fast as lower grade alloys. It should turn with a breaker bar.
Option 1: The owner before over torqued the bolt, squeezed and bend everything together and damaged the threads.
Option 2: The metal sleeve of the bushing is probably made from aluminum alloy (?) and has corroded. Al2O3 is one of the hardest crystal on earth, together with the increase of volume, it can be impossible to turn the bolt inside it. Oil will not go to it and the bushing will protect it from heat. German cars have this problems a lot. 10.9 bolts in aluminum control arms. Audi with the "asshole bolt", Mercedes with the rear suspension arms.
I would try to turn it from both sides. Unfortunately if it is is option 2, if you snap off the nut the bolt will not come out.
Good luck![]()
I tried a breaker bar and it had that im about to snap feeling so I backed off and went the soak it for a while route.
I will go back at it tomorrow and work it until it either comes out or snaps and I drill the rest out.
I just need to find the part numbers for these bolts so I can have them on hand in case I have to cut them out.
Does anyone have the part numbers for the suspension bolts by any chance?
Im going to try all of the suggestions tomorrow until these bolts finally submit one way or another. Unfortunately when I tried my impact last time, my Milwaukee was just going to snap it off had I kept going.put a wire wheel on a grinder , and clean the hell out of the threads and nut to make them as shiny as can be,, get the bolt head as well,,
spray with pb blaster ,,
a good impact,, and a 6 or 8 point shallow socket
my harbor fright impact not only snaped off the weld nuts on the power steering rack ..
but was also able to get all my rear end axle and suspension bolts out