How to Install a 2010-2014 Mustang Steering Wheel into a 2005-2009 Mustang

RepulsiveReject

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Hello everyone! I decided to create an in-depth tutorial on how to create the wiring harness and install a 2010-2014 Mustang steering wheel with audio controls into an 2005-2009 Mustang! I know there's been a couple tutorials out there, but this one is supposed to be the "end-all" beginner/advanced tutorial for any level of experience! This ALSO INCLUDES a tutorial for the newer Dynavin radios, such as the N7 Pro or N8 Pro (which I personally have myself.) Thanks guys, and if the link dies or something happens, let me know! I should be able to refresh the link soon after!! :)

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1a-pYGuLFhT1mZ_OeV3itvsuV9duPDeI9/view?usp=sharing

Good luck!!
 

JC SSP

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Excellent! Thank you and someone should pin this on the forum.
 

RepulsiveReject

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Excellent! Thank you and someone should pin this on the forum.
Thanks so much buddy! I didn’t do this alone, I did use a couple of other tutorials out there! I think we should start revising some of these old tutorials and making them new and better again, I think it’ll benefit the new users tenfold, to be honest. Thank you!
 

VGMStudios

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Good stuff! Personally I prefer the one made by akdoggie since I helped him with it but this one is really good as well. Good job.
FYI You don't need a PAC adapter, even if one installs an aftermarket radio.
I do like that you have info about the Dynavin units.
Did all this like 2 years ago (the Dynavin) and had a 2010 steering wheel installed for 9 years now in my 05-09. This will surely help others.
 
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Good stuff! Personally I prefer the one made by akdoggie since I helped him with it but this one is really good as well. Good job.
FYI You don't need a PAC adapter, even if one installs an aftermarket radio.
I do like that you have info about the Dynavin units.
Did all this like 2 years ago (the Dynavin) and had a 2010 steering wheel installed for 9 years now in my 05-09. This will surely help others.
Hm, interesting about not needing the PAC. Every time I’ve watched tutorials on YouTube or read articles, they require a PAC except for the Dynavin head unit (and a few others with similar installation requirements/wiring) Good to know, and thank you!
 

VGMStudios

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You are most welcome.
Before I put in the Dynavin unit, I installed an OEM Nav unit and got everything working. No PAC needed. If you are interested in seeing the guide I used just to compare, lmk and I'll post it.
 

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You are most welcome.
Before I put in the Dynavin unit, I installed an OEM Nav unit and got everything working. No PAC needed. If you are interested in seeing the guide I used just to compare, lmk and I'll post it.
Ohh, one of those. I don’t really need a guide, I just figured i’d throw that one in there just in case anyone had some head unit that was weird and needed the PAC, haha. :D
 
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Want to do this project soon, im looking to purchase carbon fiber steering wheel for 2014 and install it into my 06 with dynawin unit. Ive heard i would need the new U bracket that holds airbag and horn assembly right? anyone knows the part number for that?, also i would need the harness wiring that is inside the steering wheel from 2014, since carbon wheels come bare, any one knows the part number for those harnes(es) as well?, thanks!
 

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Want to do this project soon, im looking to purchase carbon fiber steering wheel for 2014 and install it into my 06 with dynawin unit. Ive heard i would need the new U bracket that holds airbag and horn assembly right? anyone knows the part number for that?, also i would need the harness wiring that is inside the steering wheel from 2014, since carbon wheels come bare, any one knows the part number for those harnes(es) as well?, thanks!
I don’t know the part number, unfortunately. My horn is having issues (doesn’t work at all), and i’ve been trying to figure out if it’s the u plate you’re mentioning, or something else… tear :(
 

VGMStudios

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I don’t know the part number, unfortunately. My horn is having issues (doesn’t work at all), and i’ve been trying to figure out if it’s the u plate you’re mentioning, or something else… tear :(
Try this.
Take the airbag off. Unscrew the screws to the plate. Remove the plate and make sure the connector to the plate is connected. Place the plate back and push on it making sure the plate touches the metal balls. If the horn sounds it means you tighten the screws to much or it wasn't sitting properly. Happened to me a few times.
 

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Try this.
Take the airbag off. Unscrew the screws to the plate. Remove the plate and make sure the connector to the plate is connected. Place the plate back and push on it making sure the plate touches the metal balls. If the horn sounds it means you tighten the screws to much or it wasn't sitting properly. Happened to me a few times.
Gotcha… I haven’t wanted to mess with the airbag with the battery connected. too nervous that something bad’ll happen - aka BOOM! i’ll definitely try that today at some point, sounds like it’ll work.
 

VGMStudios

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Gotcha… I haven’t wanted to mess with the airbag with the battery connected. too nervous that something bad’ll happen - aka BOOM! i’ll definitely try that today at some point, sounds like it’ll work.

That's totally understandable. I guess I don't care cause I have always just disconnected it without unplugging the battery. Lol.
Good luck. Hope it works out for you.
 

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That's totally understandable. I guess I don't care cause I have always just disconnected it without unplugging the battery. Lol.
Good luck. Hope it works out for you.
forgot to update you! it ended up working, guess i had a wire in the way. i plan to make a new post on this forum relatively soon asking some more strange questions and hoping for answers :)
 

VGMStudios

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forgot to update you! it ended up working, guess i had a wire in the way. i plan to make a new post on this forum relatively soon asking some more strange questions and hoping for answers :)
Glad to hear it worked out. As a matter of fact that also happened to me once lol. If I can, I'll try to help. A lot of strange stuff happened to me over the years with my cars so I'm no stranger to finding solutions haha.
 

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Glad to hear it worked out. As a matter of fact that also happened to me once lol. If I can, I'll try to help. A lot of strange stuff happened to me over the years with my cars so I'm no stranger to finding solutions haha.
haha. it’s so frustrating, the little issues end up making you look all around at all the possible different problems with the car, yet it’s something right there with your own wiring :rolleyes:
 

cjust2006

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Yo! Posted this in another thread too, just trying to get some traction on this:

Everything seems good except the phone, voice, and OK buttons aren't not working. I'm kinda hung up on the fact that we didn't use the blue and yellow wires from the new steering wheel's audio control plug. Is that correct? And I did see on another tutorial that they grounded out that blue wire AND the yellow wire also went to the WPT connector (though we don't see where he uses it). Those buttons are working for him, but, they were using the PAC SWC controller... I'm also chasing the crazy loud thump/pop when the Dynavin turns on. Am on the Dynavin 9.
 

VGMStudios

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Those buttons will not work with the Dynavin in the 05-09 with 2010 steering wheels. Im looking for a solution but it's slow going. Ya you can try a PAC unit but I'm going to try to get it working without one. Btw how is the Dynavin 9?read it has some more features than the 8. As for the popping I believe it's a fuse? What year is your car?
 

cjust2006

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It's a 2009 GT500 w/Shaker 1000 setup. Might upgrade speakers later, but for now, just head unit... Liking the D9 so far, it's nice and snappy for the most part. Runs awfully hot. Wireless Android Auto (and I think Car Play but N/A to me). As for the massive POP at power on, I checked the remote/amp-signal wire, and it puts out 5v like you'd want for these cars. BUT, the problem is that the amps are switched on the moment the key enters the barrel (albeit off again after 10 seconds). Thought about putting a delay in that circuit, but if I don't start the car within the three seconds or so, it'll still do it. AND THEN, after shutting the car off, the system keeps everything energized for 20 min! And it's not like it's on and able to be listened to, just off but still consuming power! Amp too. Gonna kill the battery. Talking to support, because this seems like it would affect every single D9 they sell... Plus, sucks that it doesn't at least keep running like stock up until you open the door to exit the car. There's the plug/harness that sends a CAN signal to the stereo to tell it when to turn on and off, just seems like it should be able to use that to either start a power-off timer, or monitor door_open and shut off then. I digress...

One possible solution to the pop, if they are unable to help, is to use the extra aftermarket amp 12v remote wire which is ONLY switched on after the stereo starts up, and put a resistor on it for 5v. It comes with the added benefit of killing the amps as soon as the stereo is off, not the 20 min wait.

Let me know about the wheel buttons. Any idea what those blue and yellow wires were for? Thought about grounding the blue, as seen in a PAC tutorial (can't hurt, right?), and then possibly combine the yellow wire with the purple wire, and if that fails, the second wire in the Dynavin connector (though that might just be ground). Have you tried either of those?
 
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cjust2006

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Little update. The blue and yellow must be for those buttons. If you tie the audio control yellow in with the audio control purple wire (which goes into the Dynavin), nothing happens UNTIL you ground that audio control blue wire (as in other guides). It ends up triggering other actions, but I still can't program those buttons. If I understand correctly, this all works via voltage fluctuations. All buttons are distinguishable by their unique voltage returned. I'm guessing that these tying into the same wire on the Dynavin are sending voltages that are out of range, and therefor can't be translated into the buttons.

Looking like a PAC is the only way. Sure seems like they omitted that in this guide...

EDIT: Pop has been fixed by an acknowledged firmware bug.
 
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