How well do these cars hang with the LSX powered vehicles?

calebparkin3

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A 2.0 60 foot is bad, btw. 90+ degree weather actually helps


I agree 100% a 2.0 60ft is bad, i never said it was a good 60ft. But for the track that we have here a 1.9-2.2 is what most people get with street tires. here if you want anything under 1.9 your pretty much going to need a drag slick. The times that i have went the track prep wasnt the greatest. yes 90+ should help with traction, but your car is not going to run near as good as it will with 60 degree weather.
 

itsslow

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I agree 100% a 2.0 60ft is bad, i never said it was a good 60ft. But for the track that we have here a 1.9-2.2 is what most people get with street tires. here if you want anything under 1.9 your pretty much going to need a drag slick. The times that i have went the track prep wasnt the greatest. yes 90+ should help with traction, but your car is not going to run near as good as it will with 60 degree weather.

I got a 2.0 with a slipping clutch and street tires. On top of that, it was my first time racing! Lol
 

tigerhonaker

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I got a 2.0 with a slipping clutch and street tires. On top of that, it was my first time racing! Lol

I think your 60' times were not really all that bad at all.

You might find this Time-Slip of interest.
This was my fastest pass at this yrs. NMRA World Finals in Bowling Green, KY.
The weather was perfect for day racing.
No wind and a nice as I recall 70 something temp. day.
This is with an Auto Tranny not a stick Mustang.
And the track was definitely treated for sure for traction.
Just keep in mind that mine has a lot of HP & Trq. and a long ways from stock.
I'm posting this to just show you as an example of 60' times with a highly modified Mustang.
The more HP/Trq. the harder it is to get good 60' times.
And this is me racing it just like I drove it on the street.
I drove it back and forth to the track and then raced it.
Tires were then the, Continental DW Extreme 285/35/19's on the rear.
Fronts were then, 255/40/19's.
Air pressure was as I recall 30psi. rears.
Fronts 45psi.

2012NMRATrueStreetbestET.jpg


Terry
 

Ryan331

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I think your 60' times were not really all that bad at all.

You might find this Time-Slip of interest.
This was my fastest pass at this yrs. NMRA World Finals in Bowling Green, KY.
The weather was perfect for day racing.
No wind and a nice as I recall 70 something temp. day.
This is with an Auto Tranny not a stick Mustang.
And the track was definitely treated for sure for traction.
Just keep in mind that mine has a lot of HP & Trq. and a long ways from stock.
I'm posting this to just show you as an example of 60' times with a highly modified Mustang.
The more HP/Trq. the harder it is to get good 60' times.
And this is me racing it just like I drove it on the street.
I drove it back and forth to the track and then raced it.
Tires were then the, Continental DW Extreme 285/35/19's on the rear.
Fronts were then, 255/40/19's.
Air pressure was as I recall 30psi. rears.
Fronts 45psi.

2012NMRATrueStreetbestET.jpg


Terry

That's a good reference! My whimpy little 3V ran an almost identical 1/8th mile, down to the 60'.. I really need to get out to a full 1/4 mile again with the new things done..

That being said, LS* powered vehicles try to pick on me pretty frequently
 

shiznight

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exhaust and tune on my 3v 2010 gt i do decent from a stop being auto and your typical street light run. but at a roll i don't do well at all.
 

Ssiptang

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exhaust and tune on my 3v 2010 gt i do decent from a stop being auto and your typical street light run. but at a roll i don't do well at all.

Because yours is an auto. Mine sucks on roll racing too because it takes a second or two to go in proper gear while the other car is already long gone. I got a ratchet shifter and its a lot better now.

And I hang or beat bolt on LS1 at the track all day long. But cammed LS1 with drag radial was whole another story. It was just out of my league. ET wasnt that big of difference but they trap way higher than any bolt on 3v could.
 

shiznight

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Because yours is an auto. Mine sucks on roll racing too because it takes a second or two to go in proper gear while the other car is already long gone. I got a ratchet shifter and its a lot better now.

And I hang or beat bolt on LS1 at the track all day long. But cammed LS1 with drag radial was whole another story. It was just out of my league. ET wasnt that big of difference but they trap way higher than any bolt on 3v could.

I was wondering about manually shifting the auto. It's strange but when i do even when i shift early it still hits the rev limiter. I just leave it in drive with od off and just dig race. Think it might be the tune? Not sure but i do know i don't want to do things incorrectly. Let me know your thoughts.
 

fdjizm

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I think that you have an automatic transmission and it AUTOMATICALLY shifts for you.
Always funny when I think of people wanting to MANUALLY shift their AUTOMATIC transmissions :roflmao:
 

shiznight

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There is no WANT behind me MANUALLY shifting THE auto. Nice USE of CAPS though REALLY answered THE question
 

tigerhonaker

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I was wondering about manually shifting the auto. It's strange but when i do even when i shift early it still hits the rev limiter. I just leave it in drive with od off and just dig race. Think it might be the tune? Not sure but i do know i don't want to do things incorrectly. Let me know your thoughts.

Brian .....

Here is what I can share with you on manually shifting the Auto Tranny.

I don't know if this applies to the stock auto tranny really.
But like mine that is the TCI Super Street Fighter.
My understanding is there is no benefit at all to try to manually shift it.
The Performance Tune that is in mine far exceeds the shift speed that I could do manually.

Also I think you wanted to know about doing roll ons on the street.
It just does not work well with an auto tranny as I think you have already mentioned.
And with a built auto tranny like mine you do-not want to floor it while rolling and have it down-shift multiple gears.
That will eventually (Destroy) a tranny like mine.
(That's not my opinion it is Fact)

I just saw where you were asking about manually shifting and it hits the Rev-Limiter.
That's because in a stock car the electronics just don't react quick enough to the movement of the shifter.
It is completely different with a Custom-Tune set up for an auto tranny.
The reaction time then is much quicker when shifting manually.

I hope this helps a little with what you were wanting to know.
If not ask me again and I will give it another try.

Keep in mind I can't really speak of what stock tranmissions do as I don't have one.

Terry
 
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shiznight

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This is exactly what i was wondering. Sums it up perfectly. And i'm not a fan of roll racing to me it isn't safe or actual racing. But i will Admit i get suckered into it when the guy pacing is just begging for it. But at the track i just leave it in drive with od off. Thanks for the reply.
 

tigerhonaker

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This is exactly what i was wondering. Sums it up perfectly. And I'm not a fan of roll racing to me it isn't safe or actual racing. But i will Admit i get suckered into it when the guy pacing is just begging for it. But at the track i just leave it in drive with OD off. Thanks for the reply.
Brian ..... You are correct on defeating the OD at the track.

My tune will not let mine shift into 5th gear unless I was way up in the RPM.
But just to make sure I just touch the OD Btn. on the TCI Ratchet Shifter and that turns off OD.

I have been approached a few times on the road by others to do roll ons.
I usually just let them go on their merry way.
Because I know I would have to Mat the throttle and have it drop back in the gears.
That just is not worth it to me.
So I just pass on those times.

Have a good Christmas Buddy.
merry20christmas.gif



Terry
 

HankyGT

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I guess I'll chime in for shit's and giggles as I've piloted a stock 3v, a stock lt1, and a stock ls1 down the same track in nearly identical conditions.

I owned the lt1, I owned the 3v, the ls was my brother's 99z28. Both f cars had over 150k miles, no tuneups. The 3v had 24k miles with no tuneup. All manual trans. All getting around a 2.1-2.0 60'. 3:42 gears in f cars, 3:55s in stang.

Track is known for being about .2 off the ET and 2mph. Quaker City Raceway, Salem OH. Rises about 30' from the 1/8th to 1320.

Aaaanyhow, all on stock tires. (Have slips if need be)

Lt1: 14.4 @ 96.5 3v: 14.1 @ 99.36 LS1: 13.4 @ 104.3

On another local (read level) track Thompson, I ran 13.9 @ 101 in the 3v. Was hard to launch on pirellis and the wheelhop wouldnt even allow a burnout.

I JUST bought a 2002 WS6 after selling my since blown 3v... so if it doesn't get heads/cam over winter I'll give you a time on that too. That said it runs noticably stronger than a stock 3v.

The 3v is a very easy car to bring out at the track as they really weight transfer well and the chassis is about 10x better/stiffer. Had to lower it to be rid of the hop. On lower rolls the 3v takes pretty good advantage of the VCT (cam timing) that lets it feel bigger than it really is. I could see a set of gears taking full advantage of this. They hang with the fbody longer than most want to admit. The ls1 does run away albeit slowly.


I don't care what anyone says, the 10 bolts are junk in an fbody. If you could successfully launch a stock ws6 at 5000-5500 on a slick stock it would go high 12s @ 106-108 imo. Maybe more with a freak with good air. But that's not a repeat performance. Pushed far too many onto trailers at the track lol. The t56 is also WORLDS better than the 3650; however the stock GM clutch hydraulics blow.

The mustang is a much better overall car for function, package, and quality. However I think they are huge in stature and designed like a brick. I couldn't get over the slabby bulkiness nor the fixed roof. Planned on a c5 but the ws.6 fell into my lap and I always wanted one. I like cars that are sleek and feel more lowslung. That said a stock f car feels a bit bulky with the dash and clunky doors.

I never did boltons but went straight to a blower. Manifolds/cats/non intercooled. Would get pulled by brothers cam/243 (untouched) headed ls car ALL day quite hard depending on temp. With longtubes/x/ intercooler he was too scared to run as mine pulled much harder than his (442/403 vs 398/382). Was in about $5k+ in easy to do that though. My ls1 will be making similar if not more on motor for under $2k.

I guess one feels like an older car, more like my sn95s and that's something I LIKE. It's crappier but its a little raw and it feels right once you adjust to the old crappiness of 90s-early 2000 style cars. My 06 was too removed for me. Like a fast bmw or some kind of sedan. Just different strokes I guess.

There's my unbiased review. Easier to go fast in the f car; but save for that rearend. T tops and 6spd ftw. The s197 is the better chassis/drag car but you need to put more under the hood when the going gets tough. 8.8 with factory 31 spline and carbon clutches is a Godsend though. I think the cars are +/- $2500 by the time you setup each with with the ls1 having a little more window bottom end wise.

Oh and miatas are Gods gift to the unbiased enthusiast. Absolutely love mine and sold my s197 in my sig over it as I would rather drive the stock miata.


btw this is sexy:

3-4_zps9eaa6833.jpg
 

marcspaz

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Dude, seriously? A stock 3v on street tires and you only pulled a 14.1? That sucks. I had a bone stock 2007 on the track in Petersburg... no DR's, nothing done, car had 1,800 miles on it. I ran a 13.4 @ 102.

I wonder if something was wrong with your 3v, cuz that's damn close to a second slower than mine and many others I've seen. Shit, CAI and a tune and I pulled a 12.98 still on street tires and got down to a 12.7 on DR's.
 

fdjizm

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I thought the firebird was a nice car without those 4 nostrils up front though.
Almost bought a used one many years ago, but then I thought... do I really want to date my sister? :roflmao:
 

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