I give up, can't get EVAP to "ready" state

[crownaviation]

Failed inspection today, turns out NJ does visual inspection if they suspect you have tampered wirh the car. So no cats, no pass.

Thinking of welding these to pass the "visual" test:
http://www.siliconeintakes.com/prod...d=572&osCsid=be7e08f582135c484c5dc289ab7fc4e3

That is bad ass that someone actually sells them. .Beats the shit out of having to hollow them out

 

[ixtlan]

The EVAP test must be completed within the first 30 minutes of operation or it will not invoke.
Starting with a COLD engine and ambient temp above 40F (40 to 100F) with 1/2 to 3/4 tank of fuel.
Load your Emissions Tune with your XC2 or Diablo, or whatever you use.
Plug in the Reader.
Turn Key ON without starting the engine.
Clear any codes and this will also reset your emission monitors to clear.
Turn Key OFF.
Turn Key ON and start the engine.
Idle 15 seconds before you do anything else.
Then go drive on a level as possible road at 40 to 55 mph for about 10 minutes avoiding sharp turns or hills that will slosh the fuel around.
A little pre-planning of your route helps here.
Use an even and slow throttle depressions to accelerate and decel.
Monitor the reader for the EVAP ball to go steady.
May take a few attempts to get this one but if you can get by EVAP the other tests are easy to get done by just popping on the freeway and driving around town.

Cold Soak Note
To bypass the EVAP/secondary AIR soak timer
(normally 6 hours), the PCM must remain powered after
clearing the continuous DTCs and resetting the emission
monitors information in the PCM.
In other words RESET your monitors and do not Key Off.
Follow the steps above and watch for your EVAP ball to clear.
May take a few try's but you will get there.

Now another question to ask.
Does your state allow one non completion and still pass the emissions test?
Some do, because EVAP testing is nearly impossible in the winter.
Call your emissions test station and ask.
My state allows one non completion.
Mainly due to GM vehicles that there is no Bypass built in like Ford has.

 

[MassMustang]

Resurrecting an old thread but I'm having a heck of a time getting my Evap and one Cat sensor ready. No CEL but I've filled the tank and driven from NH to back to MA. I also drove it 50 miles to/from work. I think I need to cruise a bit slower on the highway as I typically cruise around 75 mph.

I might have to trade my 2005 in for an older car to avoid these tests!!!

 

[lskiller]

The procedure shown by ixtlan (post above you) works. You have to drive steady for 10 miles or so and at the suggested speeds. I've used that procedure several times to set my EVAP.

Use the "cold soak" method and do not turn the key off. If you do, just start the procedure over.

 

[MassMustang]

The procedure shown by ixtlan (post above you) works. You have to drive steady for 10 miles or so and at the suggested speeds. I've used that procedure several times to set my EVAP.

Use the "cold soak" method and do not turn the key off. If you do, just start the procedure over.

Roger that! Just trying to figure out a route that'll allow cruising for 10 miles at 40-55mph without sloshing around the fuel AND getting a cold engine to start with. I live about 5-10 minutes from any open roads.

 

[ixtlan]

The temp above 40 is important. Also the sloshing when accelerating is also important.
When you accelerate especially from a stop you need to take off like your dragging an anchor behind you SLOW. Keep your speed steady too, and I mean as steady as you can. Traffic doesn't help so as I say try to pre-plan your route to a flat low traffic road.
My route is about 10 miles one way. If it doesn't clear going I stop do the reset and head back. Sometimes it takes a few tries but it clears the test every time. It is frustrating for sure to get this one to go.

 

[07 Boss]

It always took me quite a long time to get the evap system to read ready. Sometimes it is not ready and I get by because I'm allowed one not ready here for my year car. Anyways, now I'm not sure on this but it is what pops into my head when i read this. I think the part of the driving cycle that triggers the evap system is the cruising at a certain speed and then slowing without using the brake or gas for a long period of time. I think you have to be going 45-55 and then spend like 30-45 seconds coasting to a slower speed. Now I'm not 100% positive on this but I thought I remember the engine having to be at a certain vacuum for a certain period of time with no load on the engine for the evap system to do its thing. I think.

 

[MassMustang]

I have a flapping BOV (I ordered a softer spring). I wonder if that is causing an issue getting the Evap in a ready state too.

 

[boomer9999]

Here is the operation of the evap system per Ford so you know exactly what's going on. At least it might be helpful to review the entry conditions for the test and the timers, codes, etc.

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[SeanD]

So when it says the EVAP test will only run within the first 30 minutes of operation, does this mean after a 6+ hour cool down period? Or can you turn off the engine, clear the codes and try again?

 

[ixtlan]

So when it says the EVAP test will only run within the first 30 minutes of operation, does this mean after a 6+ hour cool down period? Or can you turn off the engine, clear the codes and try again?

It will only run within 30 minutes after the cool down.
But the reset method allows you to bypass the 6 hr cool down.
Ford was smart in that it allows you to bypass that cool down period by shutting off the engine then going key on, clear all codes, and start engine without shutting the key back off.
The drawback is any other tests that had completed also get reset.
So like I said; get the EVAP to clear then do the other drive cycle tests.
They are easy to get done driving in traffic and a pop on the freeway.
The EVAP is the tough one.

 

[46addict]

To get the EVAP to run there is two way. There is an 8 hr cold soak that needs to be set for it to run. The way I do it. (Faster way) is clear the codes right when u jump in the car. (Cold) this will bypass the 8 hr cold soak requirement. Then u have 15min to jump on the highway for steady state driving. Pls not yur fuel tank should be about 1/2 (to keep it simple ) and your IAT need a to be between 70-100 degs. I it's higher it won't run. If this is the case. Use a resistor and jump the IAT. Make it red about 90 degs. (I have done this many times on FI cars ) and it will pass. Good luck


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Tell me more about how to jump the IAT. Which wire am I tapping into?