I want a 450-500 HP N/A Mod Motor

[Sharp07GT]

Someone tell me if this is possible. Or should I just do a D1SC and a forged stroker with cams and heads? Which is more cost effective?

 

[Brn N Rubr]

I guarantee the most cost effective route will be forced induction. You can make that power on an untouched motor with a blower only. But, I think an N/A motor with that kind of power would be fun. I'm guessing it will take at least 302ci, if not more. Best of luck!

 

[Beauch]

Everyone on this board will swallow you whole if you give a Hp number and no goal. I'll be the first to say it to you...

What is the car going to be used for? Do you just want a dyno sheet that says the car has Hp?

Cost effective would be to wait. Wait for the 2011 NA motor to be a FRPP crate option. Wait for the Aluminator to be an FRPP crate blow-out sale. Wait for someone to total a Super Snake and buy the motor.

Right now, building the 4.6L NA in your 2007 to 450 Hp is doable, but you will need to run some crazy rear gears, hella cam, and the car would be useless as a DD. I think Jim DIII has a Saleen that is close at JDM.

 

[Tom]

This thread is active, but if you havent seen it. here you go. Let me know if you have any questions!!
http://s197forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=27662

 

[stkjock]

your not getting there IMHO on stock CID. i'll cost you 2-3x more based on what I've read then adding a blower to your stock s/b

 

[BRNS197]

fly wheel HP or rear wheel HP? you have the following options:

1. wait for the newer 2011 5.0, it should do better N/A because its bigger and more efficient.

2. buy an LS3/LS7 Engine and do the conversion, it would net you over 500 whp on manual cars.

 

[spyder7724]

fly wheel HP or rear wheel HP? you have the following options:

1. wait for the newer 2011 5.0, it should do better N/A because its bigger and more efficient.

2. buy an LS3/LS7 Engine and do the conversion, it would net you over 500 whp on manual cars.

#2 is just way too expensive and difficult trying to marry a GM\drivebywire engine into an s197 doesn't make sense to me. might as well put a big block carburetor motor in it and be done with it.

i can tell you that my engine ( read car of the month for jan 2010 here on the forum) makes 550+hp at the crank and a very conservative 421rwhp with a high stall converter and auto trans but doing things this way isn't cheap and never will be. you have to want to do it NA or you can't justify it at all.
check it out
http://www.s197forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=26603

 

[BRNS197]

#2 is just way too expensive and difficult trying to marry a GM\drivebywire engine into an s197 doesn't make sense to me. might as well put a big block carburetor motor in it and be done with it.

i can tell you that my engine ( read car of the month for jan 2010 here on the forum) makes 550+hp at the crank and a very conservative 421rwhp with a high stall converter and auto trans but doing things this way isn't cheap and never will be. you have to want to do it NA or you can't justify it at all.
check it out
http://www.s197forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=26603

I agree that its too much of a hassle, but we have done conversion to older mustangs with gen3 ls1 PCM and painless wiring. Car drove fine and they make 500+whp with LS7 and unlocked TH350 Trans. I just think its too much to ask 500+whp N/A. Big block engine will cost more than LSX as you have to run a standalone ECU if your gonna use fuel injection. LS-conversion with LS PCM and tranny is less hassle believe me.

By the way i like the work you have done to your car. If i get a video of the 9 second pass with an older mustang with an LS-conversion, i will send you a PM. It has dipped into the high 9's with 4000+stall speed.

 

[Sharp07GT]

Think I'll just blow it, should be more streetable that way too. Thanks for the help guys!! BTW, It ran a best of 8.49 @ 86.8mph in the 1/8th before I had the Steeda Pulleys,Line lock, DR's and dyno tune!! I've done some weight dropping since then, Rear seat delete-40lbs, Steeda lower radiator support-31lbs, Removed all audio equipment- 23lbs, Spydershaft-23lbsand removed spare tire-25lbs?Now if I can lose about 100lbs I'll be doing good!! LMAO,

 

[bigwilly43729]

Think I'll just blow it, should be more streetable that way too. Thanks for the help guys!! BTW, It ran a best of 8.49 @ 86.8mph in the 1/8th before I had the Steeda Pulleys,Line lock, DR's and dyno tune!! I've done some weight dropping since then, Rear seat delete-40lbs, Steeda lower radiator support-31lbs, Removed all audio equipment- 23lbs, Spydershaft-23lbsand removed spare tire-25lbs?Now if I can lose about 100lbs I'll be doing good!! LMAO,

What kind of rear seats do you have that weigh 40lbs?

 

[Sharp07GT]

What kind of rear seats do you have that weigh 40lbs?

I saved 40lbs with the delete kit dude.

 

[bigwilly43729]

I saved 40lbs with the delete kit dude.

I'm not trying to bust your balls; I just think your numbers are a bit off. I have the seats out of my car right now and they sure as hell aren't 40lbs.

This thread disagrees as well.

 

[marcspaz]

Even if you pull the seat belts and all of the hardware, I don't think you can shave 40 lbs. 30, but not 40. Plus, the delete kit is going to add some weight back.

450-500 hp at the wheels, NA, stock 4.6 displacement... not happening. A twin screw at 8 or 9 PSI will do the trick.

 

[trill gear head]

It will most likely cost more than you bought your car for. Unless you mean 450 at the flywheel. 400hp and the rear wheel is very doable and that is over 450 once you add the drivetrain loss.

 

[470 GT/CS]

Even if you pull the seat belts and all of the hardware, I don't think you can shave 40 lbs. 30, but not 40. Plus, the delete kit is going to add some weight back.

450-500 hp at the wheels, NA, stock 4.6 displacement... not happening. A twin screw at 8 or 9 PSI will do the trick.

I agree about the power, I don't think there is much more N/A power attainable if at all than Hurricane Performance's shop car which made 440rwhp, unless it's a 5.4 setup like Ron's.

 

[Matt D]

Here we go again with another Na thread. The end result is you will pay out of your ass to make big na hp , and when you get to your "goal" and you want to make more all motor power... you have to start all over with differn't parts.

All motor= The Us Marines " The few and Proud"

If your car is not set up for an all motor set up (gearing, rims tires, etc) You will get beat by many blower cars that spent a fraction of the money you did.

450-500hp All motor out of a 3 valve is very easily said on the web. Try and make that power in the real world is another giant mountain to climb and only a few have reached the top

 

[Tom]

I agree about the power, I don't think there is much more N/A power attainable if at all than Hurricane Performance's shop car which made 440rwhp, unless it's a 5.4 setup like Ron's.

Unfortunately if you staying all motor, then you will spend some coin. We believe we can get a few more out of our shop car, but I wouldnt expect to see much , much more

To build a motor like the one in out car would be costly but wouldnt be outrageous since we have done it and know exactly what to do. Would be it easier to get a blower. I would say yes, so at that point it all becomes give and take, and truly knowing what you want!!!

 

[470 GT/CS]

Unfortunately if you staying all motor, then you will spend some coin. We believe we can get a few more out of our shop car, but I wouldnt expect to see much , much more

To build a motor like the one in out car would be costly but wouldnt be outrageous since we have done it and know exactly what to do. Would be it easier to get a blower. I would say yes, so at that point it all becomes give and take, and truly knowing what you want!!!

Yeah I agree, we were going to mod our car but we're probably going to trade it for a new 5.0 instead. I was going to buy a 4.6 3v with 30k miles to build up as a project(then swap into a s197 v6 most likely)from someone on these forums for about 500 bucks but it was already pending by the time I pm'ed the guy.


I know F/I is less costly, but N/A seems more fun for some reason. I'd like to see you guys get 450rwhp out of your car. Just imagine what it could do with 12:1 to 14:1 compression.

 

[Sharp07GT]

Even if you pull the seat belts and all of the hardware, I don't think you can shave 40 lbs. 30, but not 40. Plus, the delete kit is going to add some weight back.

450-500 hp at the wheels, NA, stock 4.6 displacement... not happening. A twin screw at 8 or 9 PSI will do the trick.

The rear seat delete said it would drop 40 lbs http://search.americanmuscle.com/search/Generation-2005-2009--keywords-rear_seat_delete_kit

 

[NastyStang113]

The rear seat delete said it would drop 40 lbs http://search.americanmuscle.com/search/Generation-2005-2009--keywords-rear_seat_delete_kit

They lied..