Intercooler Pump Issues

Jon_Purdy

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Just completed the bench testing of my D.O.B Powa Pump. What is happening is very strange.

I took the battery out of the trunk. Put the power wire and the trigger wire on the positive post at the same time and the negative to the negative post. Pump runs. However, when I pull the trigger wire off the positive post (to simulate the key in the off position), the pump continues to run. Why? Also, if I put the positive wire and the trigger wire to positive post one after the other, pump will not run.

Hoping someone out there can help. I’m new to the electrical side of things.
 

JC SSP

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Have you reached out to the manufacture? Not sure how your pump is designed, but many will not work dry, so they don't burn up. Again, no pics or schematics or instructions, I am not really sure what you're doing...
 

Jon_Purdy

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Have you reached out to the manufacture? Not sure how your pump is designed, but many will not work dry, so they don't burn up. Again, no pics or schematics or instructions, I am not really sure what you're doing...
I did reach out to the manufacturer but he hasn't gotten back to me yet.

When I had everything installed in the car (power to lug at fuse box, ground to passenger side strut tower, trigger to rf noise suppressor), the pump wouldn't run at all even though I'm getting power at both the fuse box and noise suppressor.
 

whitmanink

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i hope you get somewhere with D.O.B.
on facebook , a guy claiming to be d.o.b and an employee for them ,,
we got into an argument because they said about installing cams into a 3v and having to "degree" them to make sure no POC would happen ..(he charged people for this service) .
i argued the pin on the cam sets the cam , so top dead center for the crank and line the L and R up with the marked chain link and send it,,,
i told him how i didnt degree anything with my locked out mutha thumpers,and never heard anyone having to do such,,, now 2 v is another story but we are talking our engines .(3v)

point is ,, they seem iffy ,, so i wouldnt be shocked if you might have gotten a pump built by them thats wired wrong..
 

Badd GT

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Go to DOB Facebook page and scroll down to April 6 and somebody’s asking about your particular situation, you’ll find your answer there.
 

Jon_Purdy

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Go to DOB Facebook page and scroll down to April 6 and somebody’s asking about your particular situation, you’ll find your answer there.
I saw very post. Helpful but it doesn’t completely solve the issue. Pump works just as it should when I test it outside the car. For some reason, it doesn’t want to turn on when I put the battery and harness back in.
 

Jon_Purdy

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i hope you get somewhere with D.O.B.
on facebook , a guy claiming to be d.o.b and an employee for them ,,
we got into an argument because they said about installing cams into a 3v and having to "degree" them to make sure no POC would happen ..(he charged people for this service) .
i argued the pin on the cam sets the cam , so top dead center for the crank and line the L and R up with the marked chain link and send it,,,
i told him how i didnt degree anything with my locked out mutha thumpers,and never heard anyone having to do such,,, now 2 v is another story but we are talking our engines .(3v)

point is ,, they seem iffy ,, so i wouldnt be shocked if you might have gotten a pump built by them thats wired wrong..
It works outside the car. Inside all wired up is another story. Does that indicate a bad ground?
 
Last edited:

Jon_Purdy

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i hope you get somewhere with D.O.B.
on facebook , a guy claiming to be d.o.b and an employee for them ,,
we got into an argument because they said about installing cams into a 3v and having to "degree" them to make sure no POC would happen ..(he charged people for this service) .
i argued the pin on the cam sets the cam , so top dead center for the crank and line the L and R up with the marked chain link and send it,,,
i told him how i didnt degree anything with my locked out mutha thumpers,and never heard anyone having to do such,,, now 2 v is another story but we are talking our engines .(3v)

point is ,, they seem iffy ,, so i wouldnt be shocked if you might have gotten a pump built by them thats wired wrong..
Jason did get back to me saying "I'll have to figure it out." He needs to realize that not everyone knows as much about this stuff as he does and shouldn't get offended when people that don't know a lot about this stuff ask questions.
 

86GT351

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Jason did get back to me saying "I'll have to figure it out." He needs to realize that not everyone knows as much about this stuff as he does and shouldn't get offended when people that don't know a lot about this stuff ask questions.
Why would you say he is offended? Sounds like a truthful answer that he wants to help figure it out.
 

DieHarder

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Just completed the bench testing of my D.O.B Powa Pump. What is happening is very strange.

I took the battery out of the trunk. Put the power wire and the trigger wire on the positive post at the same time and the negative to the negative post. Pump runs. However, when I pull the trigger wire off the positive post (to simulate the key in the off position), the pump continues to run. Why? Also, if I put the positive wire and the trigger wire to positive post one after the other, pump will not run.

Hoping someone out there can help. I’m new to the electrical side of things.

I took the battery out of the trunk. Put the power wire and the trigger wire on the positive post at the same time and the negative to the negative post. Pump runs. However, when I pull the trigger wire off the positive post (to simulate the key in the off position), the pump continues to run. Why? Ans: As far as precedence; the trigger wire is connected first (key on). That action then enables B+ to connect to the motor (Best to connect the pump positive lead to the Battery Positive lead). When the key is turned off the pump may continue to run for a short time. Nothing to worry about.

References: https://static.summitracing.com/global/images/instructions/emp-e2512a.pdf (see pg 18)

https://static.summitracing.com/global/images/instructions/emp-e2512a.pdf
https://static.summitracing.com/global/images/instructions/emp-e2512a_hp.pdf

Again, the cleanest/simplest installation for this pump would be the following:

PUMP -
(Using the 4 pin connector at the pump; see last page of emp-e2512a_hp.pdf instructions)
Pin 1 - No connection
Pin 2 - (Ground) - (black wire) connect to any metal body ground nearest to the pump. The shorter, the better.
Pin 3 - (B+) (Red battery pos) - This is the thick line (10 or 12 gauge) that should have been included with the kit. Run it back to battery positive (best) or the positive lead at the fuse box in the engine bay. Just be sure to add a 30 amp fuse in line.
Pin 4 - (Ignition Pos - aka Switched Pwr) - closest point is the RF Suppressor on the front of the engine. Spice into it.

Note: Do Not run the pump without water. It can damage the seals.
 

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