KB Boost-A-Spark Installed

05bluestang

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Well I finally had time to take the car to Tillman to get the module wired (didn't have the balls to cut the wires myself). Well I my case (<-- disclaimer) it worked. The car acts and drives totally different, it feels like it got a lot more power. I am running Autolite HT0's ungapped, the idle with a cold or hot engine is totally smooth and she pulls really hard all the way to 6500 rpm. Right now I got it set at about 60%, which I think is around 45K volts at the plug. I know that the general concensus is that it does not do anything for cars that run around 10psi but in my case it worked and it's one of the best $230.00 I have spent. Now to find the time to get her back on the dyno to see how much it helped...............:sigh1:
 

JeremyH

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Yeah if u wanna make claims about a boost-a-spark you shoulda posted some dyno before after info. That would help alot. And im sure many are interetsed in seeing that.

The gains you feel may be from your sytem having blow out as mentioned or you might have some cops going bad and now you just masked the problem with a boost-a-spark imho.

If you had cops going bad replacing them would be alot better and would have fixed the problem as well.

It also would have been cheaper to go with a solid ss cop connector over the stock spring style when trying to upgrade the ignition stuff over a boost-a-spark.

Glad to here the cars running good though!

My 02 cents
 

05bluestang

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Yeah if u wanna make claims about a boost-a-spark you shoulda posted some dyno before after info. That would help alot. And im sure many are interetsed in seeing that.

The gains you feel may be from your sytem having blow out as mentioned or you might have some cops going bad and now you just masked the problem with a boost-a-spark imho.

If you had cops going bad replacing them would be alot better and would have fixed the problem as well.

It also would have been cheaper to go with a solid ss cop connector over the stock spring style when trying to upgrade the ignition stuff over a boost-a-spark.

Glad to here the cars running good though!

My 02 cents

Car is going on the dyno this Saturday. We know there are some underlaying issues and the BAS masked them. We did all the legwork like using different plaugs, COP's leak teat and all that happy hore shit. Everything came back good, CR @ Tillman seems to think I have coil supply voltage issues....
I am not making any claims about the BAS, (hence the disclaimer in the first post), I can only tell you what the car feels like before and after and there is difference. Is that going to show on the dyno, honestly I have no idea, we'll see Saturday....................
Oh BTW, on a "good day" it makes 465WHP, on a "bad day"" it makes between 420 and 430whp, it's as moody as my wife...........................
 

JeremyH

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Interesting wonder what the votlage drop would be from as the voltage is generated in each cop maybe meter the voltage going to the cops or ugrade to a thicker gauge supply wire to the cops. Let us know how it turns out!

It should show something on the dyno if u can feel the difference, hell going from old to new spark plugs can show 5rwhp on the dyno.
 

05bluestang

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Interesting wonder what the votlage drop would be from as the voltage is generated in each cop maybe meter the voltage going to the cops or ugrade to a thicker gauge supply wire to the cops. Let us know how it turns out!

It should show something on the dyno if u can feel the difference, hell going from old to new spark plugs can show 5rwhp on the dyno.

CR @ Tillmann seems to thing there is an intermittened short in the harnness but neither of us have bee able to find it. I have been looking for an 05 engine harness to replace mine but so far no dice................
 

RRRoamer

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unless you were getting spark blow out you will not see any difference in dyno numbers

That is not a completely true statement. "Lighting the fire" is more than a simple it did / it did not type of thing. "Spark blowout" (aka: no spark due to inability of the coil to generate sufficient voltage to ionize the spark gap) is only he WORSE case scenario of insufficient ignition.

Basically, an electrical spark is a REALLY crappy way to light off an air/fuel mixture! Why do you think IC engines are SO picky about A/F? An open flame can light mixtures that are MUCH richer or leaner than an electrical spark can. But, it is MUCH easier to generate an electrical spark at the right time inside a combustion chamber, so that is what we have.

The more power you can dump into that spark, the "hotter" the spark is and the better the initial ignition event is. A coil that JUST has enough energy to generate the ionization voltage will NOT have much energy left to generate current in the spark gap. Power = Voltage * Current, so you really need BOTH voltage and current to create a strong, powerful spark.

So how do we get a "hotter" spark? Well, we need to get MORE energy into the coil on the primary side so the energy will be there to generate the voltage and current on the secondary side. Boost-A-Spark claims to do just that by RAISING the voltage on the primary side of the coil. Power is also equal to Voltage squared divided by the resistance of the circuit (coil). So, raising the voltage SQUARES the power going into coil. For example, raising the voltage by 10% will raise the power stored in the coil by 21%. If you could double the voltage to the coil then you would have FOUR times the power stored in the coil.

Once you have more power in the coil, you can play games with the spark gap to increase the voltage of the spark event itself. This larger gap helps create that "hotter" spark AND it exposes MORE of the A/F mixture to the initial spark, so it gets the ball rolling quicker. Again, all good things.

So, a better spark CAN increase power even if you DIDN'T have spark blow out simply by getting the ignition even going faster and cleaner initially. Remember, ignition advance is an attempt to get around the fact that the ignition and combustion event does NOT take place instantly.

In a perfect world, we would want ALL of the mixture to burn instantly at TDC so it would have the maximum combustion pressure pushing the piston down the bore as long as possible. We play with advance to get that peak pressure to occur shortly after TCD. The faster we can light the fire, the shorter the combustion event, the closer we can get to the optimum situation.
 

blueone

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I just had one installed along with a TB and a 6060 and I will have another pull done when it's all done(waiting on DS) but it will be hard to tell where the gains came from if any, since the TB was installed at the same time. My car would stumble bad if I got on it before I drove a couple of miles, it's always near or at running temperature before I drive it but I still have to drive a couple of miles before I can get on it. I thought the BAS might help.


http://www.evoperform.com/shop/inde...id=124&zenid=bce8bc2f2f35498f5bd3e289bd3955f2
 

MikeVistaBlue06

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That is not a completely true statement. "Lighting the fire" is more than a simple it did / it did not type of thing. "Spark blowout" (aka: no spark due to inability of the coil to generate sufficient voltage to ionize the spark gap) is only he WORSE case scenario of insufficient ignition.

Basically, an electrical spark is a REALLY crappy way to light off an air/fuel mixture! Why do you think IC engines are SO picky about A/F? An open flame can light mixtures that are MUCH richer or leaner than an electrical spark can. But, it is MUCH easier to generate an electrical spark at the right time inside a combustion chamber, so that is what we have.

The more power you can dump into that spark, the "hotter" the spark is and the better the initial ignition event is. A coil that JUST has enough energy to generate the ionization voltage will NOT have much energy left to generate current in the spark gap. Power = Voltage * Current, so you really need BOTH voltage and current to create a strong, powerful spark.

So how do we get a "hotter" spark? Well, we need to get MORE energy into the coil on the primary side so the energy will be there to generate the voltage and current on the secondary side. Boost-A-Spark claims to do just that by RAISING the voltage on the primary side of the coil. Power is also equal to Voltage squared divided by the resistance of the circuit (coil). So, raising the voltage SQUARES the power going into coil. For example, raising the voltage by 10% will raise the power stored in the coil by 21%. If you could double the voltage to the coil then you would have FOUR times the power stored in the coil.

Once you have more power in the coil, you can play games with the spark gap to increase the voltage of the spark event itself. This larger gap helps create that "hotter" spark AND it exposes MORE of the A/F mixture to the initial spark, so it gets the ball rolling quicker. Again, all good things.

So, a better spark CAN increase power even if you DIDN'T have spark blow out simply by getting the ignition even going faster and cleaner initially. Remember, ignition advance is an attempt to get around the fact that the ignition and combustion event does NOT take place instantly.

In a perfect world, we would want ALL of the mixture to burn instantly at TDC so it would have the maximum combustion pressure pushing the piston down the bore as long as possible. We play with advance to get that peak pressure to occur shortly after TCD. The faster we can light the fire, the shorter the combustion event, the closer we can get to the optimum situation.

+100000000000000000000

Energy from coil = 1/2 L I² L = inductance I = current.

Good coils (MSD for example) will show you how many milliamps they're pulling. The higher the number, the better the spark, since Energy goes as current squared (same as [voltage/resistance]²).


Boosting the voltage on the primary side raises the current; more current = more spark energy.

A good coil will have a shitload of inductance and low internal resistance to alllow current to flow; that means windings with larger diameter wire.

Don't be fooled by voltage output as the way to compare a coil. Look for high inductance and low resistance (higher current flow).

:2cents: & HTH

Mike
 

MikeVistaBlue06

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Well I finally had time to take the car to Tillman to get the module wired (didn't have the balls to cut the wires myself). Well I my case (<-- disclaimer) it worked. The car acts and drives totally different, it feels like it got a lot more power. I am running Autolite HT0's ungapped, the idle with a cold or hot engine is totally smooth and she pulls really hard all the way to 6500 rpm. Right now I got it set at about 60%, which I think is around 45K volts at the plug. I know that the general concensus is that it does not do anything for cars that run around 10psi but in my case it worked and it's one of the best $230.00 I have spent. Now to find the time to get her back on the dyno to see how much it helped...............:sigh1:

I put an MSD 6A box and blaster 3 coil on my old truck and it really woke it up from a starting and also pep standpoint. It made a difference in throttle response. Also, with a high octane tune, I can run 87 with the 6A box and colder plugs and not ping.

HTH

Mike
 

JeremyH

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So what would be a better gap size for running increased spark energy? Just as stock spark energy has a set gap.
 

05stroker

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So what would be a better gap size for running increased spark energy? Just as stock spark energy has a set gap.
Good question ! I am putting a Dis 4 setup on this weekend , so I was wanting to try to start at .038 and if it blows out then go down from there . I Have not done very much research on this yet though . It may be way to large for boost.
 

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