Lash Adjuster noise

2wheelz

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Hello,

Over the weekend I suddenly started hearing a pretty gnarly tick which sounded like it was coming from the top end. I took the passenger side valve cover off and didn’t see any broken pieces laying around, but this lash adjuster appears to be collapsed, I’ve ordered replacement rocker arms and lash adjusters. I just wanted to see if this looks out of spec to anyone else. It has noticeable up and down play and the “roller” seems to be lower into the rocker arm than the rest.

Thanks

IMG_5755.png

IMG_5738.jpeg
 

GriffX

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I just replaced all the followers, yours is done. It looks like it was early enough to save the cam. How many miles you have driven?
 

2wheelz

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Depending on the position of the cam there will always be some movement. The first picture clearly shows some wear to the roller.
Yeah the arm moves up and down a good bit more than any others. And the roller is noticeably recessed compared to the others.
 

2wheelz

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I just replaced all the followers, yours is done. It looks like it was early enough to save the cam. How many miles you have driven?
Maybe 20 miles. I heard the noise on start up and drove it home. Assuming that’s when it started.

I was on the fence of doing the ford hot rod cams anyways. Just am hoping this didn’t cause damage deeper in the motor.
 

whitmanink

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The cam lobe shown in the first picture is damaged along with the roller. Replacing the lash adjusters and followers will not repair the cam. That cam should be replaced with the new lash adjusters and followers. The rough surface of the lobe will eat up the new roller and you will be doing this work again.
id say only if he catches his finger nail on the rough surface of the cam,,, it might not be as bad as it looks,,,, my pinion shaft looked tweeked in a pic,, but it was Stright as an arrow?
 

whitmanink

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if the cam is bad, i have a Set with less than 500 miles on them before i got my mutha thumpers, all it would cost is shipping as i save things i dont need "cuz you never know"

just throwing that out there
 

2wheelz

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if the cam is bad, i have a Set with less than 500 miles on them before i got my mutha thumpers, all it would cost is shipping as i save things i dont need "cuz you never know"

just throwing that out there
What would shipping look like to Henrico Virginia?

Im heavily considering doing cams, but I also want to make sure this was the only reason for the engine noise before I drop cam and tuner money
 

Midlife Crises

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There is no question the cam is trash. The roller has failed and allowed the follower to gouge the outside edges of the cam lobe. Look at the surface texture of the cam lobe. This is a great time to install an aftermarket cam set and I would absolutely install a complete Ford Performance cam drive set, new phasers and all. That means the front cover has to come off and you will have an entirely new cam timing system.
:driver:
 

86GT351

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There is no question the cam is trash. The roller has failed and allowed the follower to gouge the outside edges of the cam lobe. Look at the surface texture of the cam lobe. This is a great time to install an aftermarket cam set and I would absolutely install a complete Ford Performance cam drive set, new phasers and all. That means the front cover has to come off and you will have an entirely new cam timing system.
:driver:
The right way to do it!
 

whitmanink

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What would shipping look like to Henrico Virginia?

Im heavily considering doing cams, but I also want to make sure this was the only reason for the engine noise before I drop cam and tuner money

im not sure but i could send just the one cam to make shipping even cheaper,, id say $30 at most ,, i dont even think that , id have to go to the postal center and box it and weigh it to be exact.

i do however agree %100 with midlifecrisis ,, you should redo the who thing with a refresh .,.. but that said u can do that with my spare cam ,, buy a new set of stock cams,,, or if your gonna do cams,, dont do fords ,,
they are more for sound,, why would u do all that work ,and spend all that money for noise?

just my opinion but do mutha thumpers ,, they require loc outs and cmcv delete and 3,73 gears or higher , and a tune,, but the best cam that dont require springs ( as thats a whole new cost,,)

but if your trying to just get her back together and make sure all is well , than i suggest replacing the bad cam and roller follower and changing the oil,,
than after you know shes ok ,, you can look into cams or boost or what have you ,,

mind you this is my 2cents,, and they aint worth much, im just a meathead/ gearhead ,, but speaking from what ive done , and what other have gone through ,, i try to give the best direction for advice if i can ..
 

2wheelz

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im not sure but i could send just the one cam to make shipping even cheaper,, id say $30 at most ,, i dont even think that , id have to go to the postal center and box it and weigh it to be exact.

i do however agree %100 with midlifecrisis ,, you should redo the who thing with a refresh .,.. but that said u can do that with my spare cam ,, buy a new set of stock cams,,, or if your gonna do cams,, dont do fords ,,
they are more for sound,, why would u do all that work ,and spend all that money for noise?

just my opinion but do mutha thumpers ,, they require loc outs and cmcv delete and 3,73 gears or higher , and a tune,, but the best cam that dont require springs ( as thats a whole new cost,,)

but if your trying to just get her back together and make sure all is well , than i suggest replacing the bad cam and roller follower and changing the oil,,
than after you know shes ok ,, you can look into cams or boost or what have you ,,

mind you this is my 2cents,, and they aint worth much, im just a meathead/ gearhead ,, but speaking from what ive done , and what other have gone through ,, i try to give the best direction for advice if i can ..
I really appreciate it. I think I’ll probably look at doing cans as well, I may do the one lash adjuster and follower and make sure that was the cause of the noise I heard. I really want to do cams, tube and headers, just don’t want to spend that money if I’m facing another issue.

Do you think changing lash adjuster, oil, and then starting it to see if the noise is gone would be good? And if it starts with no loud ticking anymore I’d order the cams and tuner. Just don’t want to cause more damage with one start up.
 

2wheelz

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I would not trust the other followers
I have all of them to replace as well. Just really want to isolate what the noise is before replacing everything and sinking money into it without knowing it’s the complete issue.

My plan is/was replace the broken stuff, change oil, start it, and if no noise immediately order new cams and phasers and replace it all.
 

GriffX

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I have all of them to replace as well. Just really want to isolate what the noise is before replacing everything and sinking money into it without knowing it’s the complete issue.

My plan is/was replace the broken stuff, change oil, start it, and if no noise immediately order new cams and phasers and replace it all.
Good plan. I just replaced them with the new style, the change in the oil jet size is huge, tomorrow is the first run, hope I did everything right.
 

2wheelz

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Good plan. I just replaced them with the new style, the change in the oil jet size is huge, tomorrow is the first run, hope I did everything right.
I ordered the tool, is that what you used? Or did you use the screw driver trick?
 

GriffX

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I ordered the tool, is that what you used? Or did you use the screw driver trick?
I used a spring compressor, awful work, unfortunately I was not able to get the wedge tool to remove or lift the cam in Germany. I highly recommend not to use the compressor it takes so much time. (car was in winter storage so I had the time, but the process itself is no fun)
You must lift the cam to change the adjusters (which I didn't know. If I had know I would have imported the wedge tool)
 

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