LCA's and or UCA's do we need them on a DD that has been lowered?

[5.0 Probie]

As the title asks. Do we? Is the geometry really messed up? Cause drive ability to suck without?

I do not want to fall into some endless money pit just to find out it was ego or opinions instead of based off facts.

Our goal with our Mustang is it to do what we ask. If it is to get get groceries to going to the local racetrack for an afternoon of spirited driving (Not racing). That is what we want.

This car is a keeper for us and I want to do what is best for the car over the long haul.

I just installed the Steeda Sport springs.. PHB should delivered this Thursday as well as the new rims...

Plan is/was to get it all installed and then get an alignment. Then a few months from now get the next round of mods for Pepper...

 

[skwerl]

For me, even taking a turn at an intersection was spooky before I got the relocation brackets for the lower control arms. But if you're convinced that your car drives fine then that's your choice. Some people drive a car while others just turn the wheel and step on the pedals.

 

[5.0 Probie]

I have not yet driven it to know (Will in about 30 minutes). I may very well go yikes!

However I also want to ask those that have been there and done that. I absolutely listen the the car and the feel. I want a stable/predictable car so I know how far I can pull the rear end so to speak (In other words, knowing what the entire car is going to do even when I am steering with the rear of the car do to driver error or gravel), while maintaining control...

 

[SSStang]

I recently purchase BMR LCA, UCA with bracket, relo brackets and panhard. Along with that I installed P springs. I didn't get the chance to install the UCA and bracket yet. My cars handling has improved leaps and bounds! Also I do not have ANY wheel hop. Prior to the install the car would get bad wheel hop. I'm kinda hold off installing the UCA now since I don't have any issues with wheel hop. I did not some gear whine after the install.
Hope this helps you.

 

[Bill220]

I'm running Steeda Sport springs, Koni STR.T's, Freedom Racing PHB and LCA's. I think that the car rides like shit now (just my opinion) due to the springs. Our roads are pretty bad here in PA and the bumps and road imperfections leave me constantly irritated while driving the car. It does seem to handle better on smoother roads but throw in some bumps and the car feels very unsettled. My dad's 96' corvette rides better than my car does.

I know that I need to get relocation brackets and hopefully that will help the situation. If not, I'm going to pull the springs and put the stockers back on.

The car does look better lowered, however.

 

[fdjizm]

You don't HAVE to, the car will drive normally.
If you're not into performance driving/hard driving etc... you'll be fine.

 

[Department Of Boost]

For me, even taking a turn at an intersection was spooky before I got the relocation brackets for the lower control arms. But if you're convinced that your car drives fine then that's your choice. Some people drive a car while others just turn the wheel and step on the pedals.

I got around the race track very, very fast with no relocation brackets.

Some people drive a car while others just turn the wheel and step on the pedals............. And other people know how to DRIVE.

 

[Mustangfan]

I got around the race track very, very fast with no relocation brackets.

Some people drive a car while others just turn the wheel and step on the pedals............. And other people know how to DRIVE.

Amen! Put a great diver in a v6 camry and they will toast a mediocre driver
in a mustang with relocation brackets.

 

[Whiskey11]

I got around the race track very, very fast with no relocation brackets.

Some people drive a car while others just turn the wheel and step on the pedals............. And other people know how to DRIVE.

This. They aren't required but they are another tuning tool in the toolbox. What I do recommend is getting the UCA and mount if for no other reason than to eliminate the majority of wheel hop that you may or may not encounter. By virtue of replacing the UCA you can also get the opportunity to fix the pinion angle and save your pinion bearings from the abuse they suffer when you do a lot of driving without correcting the pinion angle.

 

[2005Redfire6]

You don't HAVE to, the car will drive normally.
If you're not into performance driving/hard driving etc... you'll be fine.

This.....

I lowered my car without it all before and it would just wheel hop, etc. To be honest, it was 4 years ago so I can't give you the details but it was much more responsive, rigid with the LCAs/Brackets.

 

[FIVE-OH]

I would at least get the LCA's and relocation brackets if you drop it. Plus they help launch and handling as a whole. Only side effects are some minor noise here and there and maybe a slightly stiffer ride...worth it overall though.

 

[5.0 Probie]

Man I am so happy with all of your responses, thank you!

OK. First things first. Love the heck out of the new springs. Totally different car. The responses/reactions I am getting from the car are much closer to what my old spirited driving skills look for. Not to be confused with heavy foot, just safe clean responses from the car that allow me to "Drive"...

With that said... Need to clear up some confusion for me. I understand the LCA's. And the UCA's. But I am reading different opinions as to which one stops wheel hope and or allows for more power/drivability. Which one is which?

I get that it is the driver that makes or breaks a car. But dropping another $600-$1000 for a few more tenth is not what I am after.

What I do care about is the natural geometry and the pinion angles etc. Having a car that is happy and has as close to full range to it's original design is my goal, while owning the roads I drive.

 

[BruceH]

I recently purchase BMR LCA, UCA with bracket, relo brackets and panhard. Along with that I installed P springs. I didn't get the chance to install the UCA and bracket yet. My cars handling has improved leaps and bounds! Also I do not have ANY wheel hop. Prior to the install the car would get bad wheel hop. I'm kinda hold off installing the UCA now since I don't have any issues with wheel hop. I did not some gear whine after the install.
Hope this helps you.

Man I am so happy with all of your responses, thank you!

OK. First things first. Love the heck out of the new springs. Totally different car. The responses/reactions I am getting from the car are much closer to what my old spirited driving skills look for. Not to be confused with heavy foot, just safe clean responses from the car that allow me to "Drive"...

With that said... Need to clear up some confusion for me. I understand the LCA's. And the UCA's. But I am reading different opinions as to which one stops wheel hope and or allows for more power/drivability. Which one is which?

I get that it is the driver that makes or breaks a car. But dropping another $600-$1000 for a few more tenth is not what I am after.

What I do care about is the natural geometry and the pinion angles etc. Having a car that is happy and has as close to full range to it's original design is my goal, while owning the roads I drive.

With my car the lca helped control hop but it took the uca to eliminate it. Billet aluminum lcas will transmit less noise to the cabin than round crome moly steel ones will. I've had both.

 

[5.0 Probie]

Sweet. I do not know why. But I like the idea of messing with the UCA first, in combination with my PHB and see how that does for my car.

Now to hunt for a sale... I really like the look of the MM one, but am leaning towards the Steeda one... Just hate the bland color of the PHB and the UCA from Steeda. But ih well, function matters more than look for me =]

 

[skwerl]

No one will ever see the UCA.

 

[Riptide]

At least with the 5.0 cars you don't have to drop the tank to get the mount out if you do that. Makes it a bit easier.

 

[Sarge1400]

If you lowered the car, you should change the UCA to an adjustable one, or at least one designed for a lowered car. You need to do this to correct the pinion angle.

If you're trying to get AROUND the track in the least possible time, replace the LCAs with some good aftermarket units.

If you're trying to get DOWN the track in the least possible time, put some relocation brackets on the LCAs. This will correct the rear of the LCAs, which are now pointing at the sky instead of the ground.

 

[Whiskey11]

If you lowered the car, you should change the UCA to an adjustable one, or at least one designed for a lowered car. You need to do this to correct the pinion angle.

If you're trying to get AROUND the track in the least possible time, replace the LCAs with some good aftermarket units.

If you're trying to get DOWN the track in the least possible time, put some relocation brackets on the LCAs. This will correct the rear of the LCAs, which are now pointing at the sky instead of the ground.

Relocation brackets have their purpose for corner carving just as much as they do for drag racing (the effect is essentially the same) however the caveat is that it isn't necessary for us to do it because we are not entirely focused on raw launching capability but about the ability to put power down as a whole while cornering.

There is also that pesky issue of roll steer. Too much of either is bad.

 

[Sarge1400]

Relocation brackets have their purpose for corner carving just as much as they do for drag racing (the effect is essentially the same) however the caveat is that it isn't necessary for us to do it because we are not entirely focused on raw launching capability but about the ability to put power down as a whole while cornering.

There is also that pesky issue of roll steer. Too much of either is bad.

Agreed, Whiskey. Was just trying to keep the explanation as simple as possible for the OP.

 

[5.0 Probie]

I appreciate the help and get that I have a LOT to learn. I am going to start with the UCA (Just learned there is only one and I have been using a plural instance inaccurately) and then get the LCA's with new arms.

And good point skwerl. Fugly that is not seen makes no difference.

And BruceH. Thanks for the tip. I will hunt for the Aluminum versions.