Lethal Performance 2012 BOSS.. Toned down!

[G.T]

i'm running stock headers and cats!
as much as it would benefit from long tube headers, those would only increase underhood temps and make it even worse..

i'm still tempted to retrofit 2013 hood vents on, and a GT500 style heat extractor by the radiator.. let's see

 

[Pentalab]

i'm running stock headers and cats!
as much as it would benefit from long tube headers, those would only increase underhood temps and make it even worse..

i'm still tempted to retrofit 2013 hood vents on, and a GT500 style heat extractor by the radiator.. let's see

I disagree. Ceramic coated LT's will decrease under hood temps a whole bunch. I can easily push my fingers down hard on any of the 8 x primaries... 3 mins after shutting the eng off. I used a fluke 62 IR point and shoot thermometer, and underhood temps dropped 40 deg F. Some of that redux is coming from the ceramic coated headers, and some of it is from the high flow cats below the seats. Oem cats on my 2010 are at the base of the eng bay..and will easily hit 1875 F at WOT.

I just saw a u tube video, where they tested a 1/2 doz headers on a 427 cu in eng..... but eng was on a stand... in the dyno room, not in a vehicle. That made for fast swapping of different LT's. The ceramic coated LT's were sitting at aprx 285 F.... while the uncoated LT's were sitting at 800 ++ deg F.... it was a huge difference in temps.

The ceramic coated LT's are coated inside....and out. The theory is, the heat is retained inside the primaries. The hotter it gets inside the tubes, the faster it flows. B4 I installed the coated LT's, my black, steeda strut tower brace would cook, now its barely warm.

If folks are going to the hassle of installing lt's, use ceramic. It's well worth the results. They don't discolour. Mine are battleship grey. They look the same now, as when 1st installed.

 

[G.T]

i absolutely agree with everything you said Pentalab.. but who makes a proper set of ceramic coated headers for these cars?
the quality of most of the big brands (not naming and shaming now) has turned to shit lately.. using chinese hardware that bends and rusts over time.. so i'm skeptical their ceramic coated versions are anywhere near decent..

 

[thump_rrr]

Have you tried a Meziere electric water pump on any of the vehicles with cooling issues?
I've had mine on my 05 since 2006 with no issues.

 

[travelers]

I sent my ARH headers to Swain coating for their ceramic coating and they make a difference in exhaust temperatures. Not cheap but well worth it.

 

[Pentalab]

I use JBA brand titanium ceramic coated LT headers. They come in either silver ceramic, or titanium ceramic. The titanium version is good for an extra 100 deg F, and is battleship grey. They are ceramic coated stainless steel. Stainless steel doesn't rust. The finish is superb. No discolouration, looks the same as when it was installed 2.5 yrs ago. Made in the USA. Fit like a glove. However, I did buy new FRPP gaskets, these are the D shaped type.

If u buy Lt's, get either ceramic coated SS.... or buy SS header's...then get em ceramic coated.

Only brand that I know of that is chinese made is pypes. They are stainless steel too, and a 100% rip off of kooks headers. Even they fit just fine. There are no doubt piss poor brands of headers out there. I wouldn't mess with chrome plated LT's, since the chrome will turn blue. Plane steel Lt's (non SS) will eventually rust out. Painted plane steel ( also non SS) are also useless, the paint will burn off within a month, then the tubing starts to rust.

Good ceramic coated SS LT's are well worth the effort and expense. The big increase in hp and TQ is the 1st thing I noticed. The heat redux in the eng bay is blatantly obvious. When mine were 1st installed, ( along with the mating SS midsection containing the catted H), the AFR was on the lean side, (with blower on) so it required a re-tune. No big deal. I added 2-4% more fuel via the SCT-X3 as a temp measure, till I got it re-tuned...by VMP.