Man Without a Country?

ArtQ

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Test-fitted the headers and k-member, and measured for hood clearance. It looks like the engine will fit under the hood that I already have. Wo
fitting_01.jpg

fitting_02.jpg

What mounts are you using to connect to the K member?
 

jsimmonstx

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What mounts are you using to connect to the K member?

They're from American Muscle. I don't know who makes them.

Not much to report today. Buttoned up the transmission, re-installed the driver's seat, and found that the passenger side header does in fact clear the bell housing.

When we installed the center console panel, we found that the shifter base rubs the driver's side of the trim panel when we try to go into first. I think we're going to grind down a raised boss on the base because it's just barely hitting.

Transmission crossmember - we had to drill a whole set of new mounting holes - understandable if you consider that the trans kit is designed to go behind a mod motor instead of a Windsor.

trans_crossmember.jpg


The transmission, installed.

trans_installed.jpg


The throwout bearing (from Exedy) installed. You can see the spacers behind it.

tob_installed.jpg


The undercarriage.

undercarriage.jpg


The passenger-side header clears!

passenger_header.jpg


Today, we're going to start on the exhaust system, and hopefully, the fuel return line.
 
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jsimmonstx

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well, we have to set it all the way down on the ground before we can do any thinking on it, and that probably won't happen till Saturday because we're doing exhaust and fuel system today and tomorrow.

We also found out today that the OEM expansion tank doesn't fit where it's supposed to go (the alternator pulley prevents it from fitting), so we're thinking we may relocate it to the driver's side behind the headlight. If an aluminum one would fit - a donated part would be awesome, even if it was just to borrow so I could make sure its gonna fit before I spend the oney on it - I'd buy one.
 
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psfracer

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Wow, that pan and rack "just" fit...Looking good.:thumb2:

Thats how I set everything up also---I moved the engine as far back as the oil pan would allow with the flaming river manual rack to see what had to be done engine mount wise and trans mount wise.
 

jsimmonstx

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Thats how I set everything up also---I moved the engine as far back as the oil pan would allow with the flaming river manual rack to see what had to be done engine mount wise and trans mount wise.

I think it was you that said I had to disconnect the factory fuel pressure regulator. Do I have to remove the driver's side fuel hat to do that, or can I just cut a wire somewhere?
 

jsimmonstx

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Added the fitting for the return line to the passenger side fuel hat.

pass_fuelhat_02.jpg


I also dropped off the driveshaft, and it should be ready today.

We discovered that the radiator expansion tank won't fit where it was originally (the alternator pulley hits it), so we're going to relocate it to be behind the passenger side headlight. Eventually, I'll replace that ugly piece of crap with an aluminum tank.

Other cooling stuff - we're using Fox Mustang upper/lower radiator hoses. The upper hose is smaller than the opening on the radiator, but it can be adapted.
 

dream07

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You will be glad that you used that spacer behind the throwout bearing slave cylinder. I didn't think it was necessary when I swapped my 5.4 DOHC and an Exedy clutch to handle it and sure enough, I have to almost get the clutch pedal to the floor for full engagement and as soon as that pedal is leaving the bottom of its travel, we are moving. It is very difficult to shift under power (when G-forces are pushing you back and you have to mat the clutch pedal). Now when I have time to pull the trans again, I have to put a freakin' spacer in.

Nice swap too.
 

jsimmonstx

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You will be glad that you used that spacer behind the throwout bearing slave cylinder. I didn't think it was necessary when I swapped my 5.4 DOHC and an Exedy clutch to handle it and sure enough, I have to almost get the clutch pedal to the floor for full engagement and as soon as that pedal is leaving the bottom of its travel, we are moving. It is very difficult to shift under power (when G-forces are pushing you back and you have to mat the clutch pedal). Now when I have time to pull the trans again, I have to put a freakin' spacer in.

Nice swap too.

Luckily, the spacers I used (0.187 inches) are relatively cheap ($15 each at summit). I needed three.
 

jsimmonstx

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Excuse my ignorance....why is a return fuel system needed with a carbureted motor?

Because I'm using the OEM pump which delivers fuel at a higher rate than a mechanical pump. If I try to feed the carb with 55psi, it'll overload the floats and the carb will be in a permanent flooded condition. Gotta dial it down to 6.5 psi with an add-on regulator, and give the excess fuel a place to go.
 

jsimmonstx

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Swap Day 07 Update

Drive shaft is in
driveshaft_01.jpg


Exhaust is done - headers go out for coating on Monday
exhaust_01.jpg


Headers prevented "normal" use of dipstick, so we had to be the crap out of the tube
dipstick_01.jpg


Top and bottom radiator hoses came from a Fox mustang
top_hose.jpg


bottom_hose.jpg


We moved the radiator a bit farther forward to resolve a clearance issue with the water pump and the fan
waterpump_clearance.jpg


Mounted carburetor and installed linkage. We're having a problem with the throttle cable popping off the throttle ball at full throttle. Gotta think on it some
carb_linkage.jpg


We had to modify the air cleaner base so that the air cleaner would clear the firewall. This entailed cutting the carb hole out with more material on one end than the other, turning it around, and welding it back into place. Then, we made a "S"-shaped stud to accommodate the offset.
air_cleaner_01.jpg


air_cleaner_02.jpg


We have 5-7 working days before we get the headers back from the coater, and that will give us time to finish running the fuel line, mount the expansion tank, and do the electrical stuff. By the time the headers come back next week, we should be ready to start the engine for the first time.
 
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rojizostang

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did i see that right? there's a slip joint at the back of the transmission, and another slip joint in the drive shaft itself at the rear end? is this your transmission in the picture, and it takes a slip joint, right? and you have another slip joint on the other end of the drive shaft?

M-7003-M6295-4.jpg


http://www.s197forum.com/forum/showpost.php?p=2047545&postcount=161

the information from tremec's site says the transmission uses a 1 piece drive shaft

http://www.moderndriveline.com/Tech..._2005-up_Ford_Mustang_S197_Shift_problems.htm

i'm probably missing something i'm sure
 
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jsimmonstx

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did i see that right? there's a slip joint at the back of the transmission, and another slip joint in the drive shaft itself at the rear end? is this your transmission in the picture, and it takes a slip joint, right? and you have another slip joint on the other end of the drive shaft?

M-7003-M6295-4.jpg

That's a Magnum (same trans with different tail shaft), but yeah. We're gonna well the rear slip joint.
 

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