Man Without a Country?

moostang09

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Sounds great!! I'm excited and happy for you. The hard work is paying off. Congrats!
 

psfracer

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Verify timing. Look for vacuum leaks. Raise the idle some. It seemed to be idling a bit rough.
 

jsimmonstx

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Timing is 10 degrees initial 36 total, plug gap is 0.045, carb has not been tuned. We already know the floats need to be adjusted, and it's probably running pig rich at the moment. The startup was simply to test the electrical/ignition stuff that we've done up to this point, and to verify that the fuel pump would work with a carb'd engine.

We decided it was way to quiet, and pulled off the mufflers. I have a video, but my camera automatically throttles the mic if the incoming sound is too loud, so it would be pointless to post that particular video.
 

rojizostang

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Awesome! Glad to see it's got life in it! Did you ever get the drive shaft welded up and re-balanced? I'm curious how that's going to turn out.
 

psfracer

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Timing is 10 degrees initial 36 total, plug gap is 0.045, carb has not been tuned. We already know the floats need to be adjusted, and it's probably running pig rich at the moment. The startup was simply to test the electrical/ignition stuff that we've done up to this point, and to verify that the fuel pump would work with a carb'd engine.

We decided it was way to quiet, and pulled off the mufflers. I have a video, but my camera automatically throttles the mic if the incoming sound is too loud, so it would be pointless to post that particular video.

Ok good. Yeah the motor will sound like that also if the floats were too high and it was drawing in fuel from the boosters while at idle.
 

jsimmonstx

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There is some question about the alternator hookup. The connector on the power harness has three wires, but two of them appear to be used for monitoring by the ecu. We put an Gen3 alternator from a 95 mustang on the motor. Does anyon e have any idea how do we connect the regulator on it to the s197 harness?
 

dream07

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I can't help with wiring it to work, but will verify that unless you have the right year/body alternator, it puts that charging system trouble code on the bottom of the gauge (speedo I think). I went through that last year when I wanted to use a SN95 alternator to get rid of the clutch-type pulley.
 

avinaj80

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Defnitely a unique build! Have fun with it!
 

lito

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One line command the other monitors, just add the bulb to the old alternator to excite it and it will run.
 

lito

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You can't use the duty cycle controller of the PCM that is intended to manage the regulator of the 6g on that alternator, jut need to make the power and ignition connections (iirc) and wire the resistor that is needed between the ignition switch and the alternator terminal that excites it so it starts charging, depending on cars these resistors came in the form of a bulb (dash battery bulb) or a combination of resistor/bulb for when the bulb went out, when the alternator had no been excited it has ground on this terminal until it's excited (or always if damaged) so the bulb excites it or warns for a non charging system.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk
 

jsimmonstx

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You can't use the duty cycle controller of the PCM that is intended to manage the regulator of the 6g on that alternator, jut need to make the power and ignition connections (iirc) and wire the resistor that is needed between the ignition switch and the alternator terminal that excites it so it starts charging, depending on cars these resistors came in the form of a bulb (dash battery bulb) or a combination of resistor/bulb for when the bulb went out, when the alternator had no been excited it has ground on this terminal until it's excited (or always if damaged) so the bulb excites it or warns for a non charging system.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk

Thanks - I passed that on to the shop, and I'll see if he needs more info.
 

jsimmonstx

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Yesterday, we were working on electrical stuff.

0) We got the alternator hooked up and charging the battery (many thanks Lito!)

1) The radiator fan is working

2) The key now starts the car

3) The tach works

Issues:

0) We had to electrically connect the automatic trans to the car (and put it in park) to get the engine to start with the key. We're not sure yet what we have to do to bypass this circuit.

1) ALL of the lights are on in the instrument cluster when the engine is running. Some we know why (seat belt, air bag, traction control, oil pressure), the others need to be turned off somehow.

2) We discovered a water leak. On small block Fords, there's a backing plate on the water pump. This plate is connected to the water pump with a couple of screws. It seems that the screws on my water pump (bought at Summit Racing) the screws are too tall, and they're keeping the pump from sealing all the way. This means we have to dismantle the entire front of the engine to remove the pump and fix the problem. This is about four hours of work, and everything else is on hold until it's fixed.
 

Shotokan1509

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Ok call me naive, why would you not want the car in park to start it?
 

lito

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0) Check pin 12 on the T connector of the PCM (IIRC is the middle connector on the copperheads), to check you are on the right connector this wire should be WH-GN, my guess is that when the trans is in P, it is grounded but check what happens with a VOM with it in P or not, replicate with wiring. Again, my guess is that you grounding there would suffice but test first.

1) I've never peeled the cluster of a 10+ but if not that different than a 05-09 electric black tape is your friend, cluster removal is easy, remove the plastic cover and lift the black plastic that cover the gauges from the sides with care, you need tp cover the desired parts with pieces of black tape, was quite easy on the CJ clone we made where we removed everything except the PCM and we had a Christmas tree of lights due to this. We ended covering the message center too as there were tons of errors due to the missing modules and parts, we left wrench, cel, battery, etc that we could control.
 

lito

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Ok call me naive, why would you not want the car in park to start it?

Because it is non an auto anymore, lol.

If using a modern clutch pedal that can house a switch, you can wire it there so you can still keep the stock behavior of a manual where you need to depress the clutch to crank it.

Usually you may have an unused brake pedal switch now that you can move there and rewire.
 

jsimmonstx

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0) Check pin 12 on the T connector of the PCM (IIRC is the middle connector on the copperheads), to check you are on the right connector this wire should be WH-GN, my guess is that when the trans is in P, it is grounded but check what happens with a VOM with it in P or not, replicate with wiring. Again, my guess is that you grounding there would suffice but test first.

1) I've never peeled the cluster of a 10+ but if not that different than a 05-09 electric black tape is your friend, cluster removal is easy, remove the plastic cover and lift the black plastic that cover the gauges from the sides with care, you need tp cover the desired parts with pieces of black tape, was quite easy on the CJ clone we made where we removed everything except the PCM and we had a Christmas tree of lights due to this. We ended covering the message center too as there were tons of errors due to the missing modules and parts, we left wrench, cel, battery, etc that we could control.

When the country falls into anarchy and gearheads rule, I'm gonna nominate you for president. You freakin' rock, dude. :)
 

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