Sounds great!! I'm excited and happy for you. The hard work is paying off. Congrats!
Awesome! Glad to see it's got life in it! Did you ever get the drive shaft welded up and re-balanced? I'm curious how that's going to turn out.
Timing is 10 degrees initial 36 total, plug gap is 0.045, carb has not been tuned. We already know the floats need to be adjusted, and it's probably running pig rich at the moment. The startup was simply to test the electrical/ignition stuff that we've done up to this point, and to verify that the fuel pump would work with a carb'd engine.
We decided it was way to quiet, and pulled off the mufflers. I have a video, but my camera automatically throttles the mic if the incoming sound is too loud, so it would be pointless to post that particular video.
just add the bulb to the old alternator to excite it and it will run.
You can't use the duty cycle controller of the PCM that is intended to manage the regulator of the 6g on that alternator, jut need to make the power and ignition connections (iirc) and wire the resistor that is needed between the ignition switch and the alternator terminal that excites it so it starts charging, depending on cars these resistors came in the form of a bulb (dash battery bulb) or a combination of resistor/bulb for when the bulb went out, when the alternator had no been excited it has ground on this terminal until it's excited (or always if damaged) so the bulb excites it or warns for a non charging system.
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Ok call me naive, why would you not want the car in park to start it?
Ok call me naive, why would you not want the car in park to start it?
0) Check pin 12 on the T connector of the PCM (IIRC is the middle connector on the copperheads), to check you are on the right connector this wire should be WH-GN, my guess is that when the trans is in P, it is grounded but check what happens with a VOM with it in P or not, replicate with wiring. Again, my guess is that you grounding there would suffice but test first.
1) I've never peeled the cluster of a 10+ but if not that different than a 05-09 electric black tape is your friend, cluster removal is easy, remove the plastic cover and lift the black plastic that cover the gauges from the sides with care, you need tp cover the desired parts with pieces of black tape, was quite easy on the CJ clone we made where we removed everything except the PCM and we had a Christmas tree of lights due to this. We ended covering the message center too as there were tons of errors due to the missing modules and parts, we left wrench, cel, battery, etc that we could control.
Because I'm insane. Actually, it's because the car is now a manual car (and I'm also quite insane).