Probably have to use 2013/2014 units, which are supposed to have gotten the problem under control. Maybe somebody will figure out how to backfit the hydraulic power steering system from earlier S197's. Norm
Hi guys Here is the answer I received from the dealer : " This is still a valid part. They are not discontinued and are just on backorder until Mid June." It's pretty reassuring but we have to wait june now...(hope there won't be another delay)
You would have to eliminate the AC in order to fit the pump on the front of the Coyote. I'm more hoping that someone figures out how to reflash the earlier racks, since the ONLY difference between the '11-12, '13-14, and BOSS R/S is the programming.
Maybe the aftermarket has a solution for swapping the Coyote engine into a chassis that uses hydraulic PS. Norm
That's exactly what my car mechanic said, he tried to reflash the Ecu with a Boss302 number but nothing change. Now I have to solve the issue quickly but I can't understand why Ford isn't able to propose something (maybe because they have an interest IN steering rack changing...)
Question : I have to make a reprogramation after the new steering rack installation ? Or it's useless ? Thank you guys
Sorry guys another question : I've (finally) changed the steering rack, I've made a wheel adjustement and my issue seems to ne solve. However the steering wheel is a bit harder than before : Is it normal ? Thank you
Did you install a ford racing? My 11 gt with the brembo has this issue because I upgraded to BMR A-Arms. I'm starting to look into a 13/14 rack. I did come across 1 instance where someone upgraded a 11 to a 13 rack and the shudder went away. I really think Ford doesn't want to fix this considering a new rack is about a $1000 from Ford and is your only solution.
Because Ford is under no obligation to provide supporting mods to support the installation of non-Ford components. It sucks that some of the OE R&P units are so sensitive to other suspension modifications . . . for that matter, it sucks that they inserted drift-pull and active nibble compensations into the Mustang's EPAS mix in the first place. Norm
I've got an early-build 2011, so I've completely held off on doing ANYTHING to the front control arms because of this issue. Has anyone had this issue when installing only a bump steer kit and taller ball joints?
Hi, resurrecting this thread because I am looking at 2012 cars and I want to avoid this issue . . . did we ever figure out the build date when the fix was implemented in the 2012 cars? I am looking at a 2012 with a December-2011 build date . . . that seems like a fairly late build and probably OK, but it would be great if I could make sure. I skimmed back through a few pages of posts and saw lots of questions about the build date but could not find a consensus on the date. thanks in advance
Have have a 2011 and I just replaced the stock Front LCA with new stock LCA and now I have this problem after 70k miles. When upgrading with a 13/14 rack will I still need to have it programmed?
SOLVED!?? Okay guys I have been reading through all 23 pages of this and I have at the moment solved my steering wheel shudder on my 2011 GT. My symptoms were not the same or as extreme as some people have reported but I have always had a mild shudder that got worse with 20" amr wheel and tire package as well as koni yellows and k springs. The shudder sometimes came and went and depending on the road surface got better and worse but it was always somewhat of an issue especially at high speeds and hard turns. I tried fighting alignment and wheel balance with luck. To finally solve the issue I got a bluetooth obd2 adapter with the hs/ms switch and downloaded the forscan app for my android. When I scanned the steering module it found some calibration faults that weren't throwing CEL's. I simply reset the steering, abs, and restraint modules using the FORSCAN app and restarted the car. The car now feels like a completely different vehicle. The steering is very smooth and shudder free at high speeds and the only vibrations I feel in turns are only the feedback from the road surface. The car no longer shudders on braking. I have 172,000 miles on the car and this seems to good to be true but it feels great so far. I doubt this fix will solve everyone's problem but if on the off chance that it could help someone else, I thought I'd post it. I'd be happy to share details instructions or any other information anyone needs on this thread or via email. [email protected]
If you’re willing, please post detailed instructions here, for posterity if nothing else. You never know when someone might find the information useful. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
There is an explanationon what causes this shudder on Maximum motorsport website. Found it while looking at their K member. Here is what MM says: Steering Vibrations The advent of the electric rack in 2011 brought both good and bad. The stock EPAS anti-nibble programming was based on the stiffness of the stock rubber front control arm bushings. Replacing those bushings with stiffer urethane or Delrin causes the feedback loop in the anti-nibble programming to become unstable, causing the system to oscillate. These oscillations are felt in the steering wheel as vibrations. By allowing the use of the stock control arm bushings, we are able to minimize any EPAS steering related issues until a solution cheaper than upgrading to the FRPP rack can be found.
Yeah, no. Put stiffer bushings up front and you WILL have the problem. Only way to fix it is with different firmware that eliminates the "nibble" function in the earlier racks. And the only way to get that firmware is with a '13-14 or BOSS rack.
