Decided to keep it huh, awesome. Way too much work has gone into it to let someone else enjoy all of your hard work.
Man Without a Country?
- Thread starter jsimmonstx
- Start date
jsimmonstx
forum member
Carbs, fuel lines, distributor, and small parts are in the mail. Gonna order the blower today or tomorrow.
jsimmonstx
forum member
This weekend, I spent some time pulling the front end apart to afford easier access to the front of the engine.
I called Dyers Blowers on Friday, and they said they needed my existing crank pulley and reluctor wheel (using the OEM crank position sensor to drive the factory tach) so they could make a custom blower pulley adapter. This will let me keep my fox body serpentine accessory system.
Things I'm gong to have to give up are the A/C and heater, as well as removing the OEM radiator fan, and replacing it with an aftermarket pusher fan mounted in front of the radiator. Obligatory pics:
I called Dyers Blowers on Friday, and they said they needed my existing crank pulley and reluctor wheel (using the OEM crank position sensor to drive the factory tach) so they could make a custom blower pulley adapter. This will let me keep my fox body serpentine accessory system.
Things I'm gong to have to give up are the A/C and heater, as well as removing the OEM radiator fan, and replacing it with an aftermarket pusher fan mounted in front of the radiator. Obligatory pics:
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jsimmonstx
forum member
Welp, I think I've ordered all the parts I need. The blower kit will be shipped in a couple of weeks (they have to fab the intake and a crank pulley for my application). and the carbs/fuel lines were shipped today. Still waiting for my distributor and air scoop/air cleaners to be delivered.
The only remaining concern involves the radiator/fan, but we have a couple of ways we can go:
0) Relocate the rad to be in front of the core support which will allow us to retain the OEM fan.
1) Leave the radiator in it's stock location and replace the OEM fan with two pusher fans.
We know for certain that the new crank pulley will be too close to the radiator to keep the OEM fan if we leave the rad in its OEM location. Relocating the radiator would involve modifying the mounting style, and may interfere with the radiator cover.
The only remaining concern involves the radiator/fan, but we have a couple of ways we can go:
0) Relocate the rad to be in front of the core support which will allow us to retain the OEM fan.
1) Leave the radiator in it's stock location and replace the OEM fan with two pusher fans.
We know for certain that the new crank pulley will be too close to the radiator to keep the OEM fan if we leave the rad in its OEM location. Relocating the radiator would involve modifying the mounting style, and may interfere with the radiator cover.
jsimmonstx
forum member
Word of the day: CARBURETORS!
BruceH
BBB Big Bore Boss 322
I wouldn't think that iats will be an issue with the fuel being sucked through the blower. That's the first thing that popped into my head when I read about the 6-71.
Any idea of where you will be end up or is the end still not finalized?
Any idea of where you will be end up or is the end still not finalized?
jsimmonstx
forum member
3 pounds of boost - should be a 20-30% increase in hp. That would be about 690 crank HP, and 585 at the wheels.
jsimmonstx
forum member
Weekly update...
Still waiting on the following parts:
Blower (I'm hoping for mid/end next week)
Distributor (don't understand the holdup here)
I order the following parts this weekend:
Accessory Brackets (changing from stock fox body brackets to billet aluminum)
Radiator fans, and temp sensor for fans
I removed the AC stuff (including the OEM lines that run to the firewall). There's no point in keeping it in the car, since I've driven through three Texas summers without it, and I'm still alive.
I put the carburetor back to its original jet and air bleed sizes, so I can sell it.
I painter taped the fenders and strut towers to avoid damaging the paint during the blower install.
There's still some question regarding the hood. I'm gonna have to cut a hole in it, and my engine guy thinks it would look cooler if I cut my Cervini Mk IV hood, but I can probably sell it for $600, or swap it for a cowl hood that I think would look better and be easier to deal with.
Still waiting on the following parts:
Blower (I'm hoping for mid/end next week)
Distributor (don't understand the holdup here)
I order the following parts this weekend:
Accessory Brackets (changing from stock fox body brackets to billet aluminum)
Radiator fans, and temp sensor for fans
I removed the AC stuff (including the OEM lines that run to the firewall). There's no point in keeping it in the car, since I've driven through three Texas summers without it, and I'm still alive.
I put the carburetor back to its original jet and air bleed sizes, so I can sell it.
I painter taped the fenders and strut towers to avoid damaging the paint during the blower install.
There's still some question regarding the hood. I'm gonna have to cut a hole in it, and my engine guy thinks it would look cooler if I cut my Cervini Mk IV hood, but I can probably sell it for $600, or swap it for a cowl hood that I think would look better and be easier to deal with.
jsimmonstx
forum member
I figured I'd post an update, seeing as how it's January 01 and all...
Let me preface the following by saying that I like to get all my ducks in a row BEFORE doing something major to the car, because I hate surprises and delays caused by not being prepared. When I initially did the motor swap, I had all of the parts in a pile and the engine built BEFORE starting the swap. From start to finish, my engine/trans swap took just 28 calendar days, and we only had two minor fabrication items that we didn't expect. All in all, it went real smooth, and everyone was surprised at how quickly we finished. I want this blower install to be a similar experience.
- I decided to remove all A/C parts because, I don't need A/C and it kinda clutters the engine compartment. Fortunately, Ford made removing the A/C lines a minor exercise, and I managed to get them out without having to cut them. Of course, the fact that I have so much room in the engine compartment with the narrow Windsor motor really helped out.
- I had to remove the OEM radiator fan because the blower crank pulley and belt needed the space, and this caused me to have to order some pusher fans to mount on the front of the radiator. I got a call last Thursday saying they were on back-order for 2-4 weeks (best case), so I ordered them from Summit (at a higher cost), and they should be here by Tuesday or so. This was my first disappointment of the weekend.
- I got my distributor (Ford Duraspark from Performance Distributors), and had communicated with them that I needed a steel gear on it. Potential problem - the gear doesn't look like a steel part, and there's nothing in the box noting that it is steel. A cast iron gear will chew up my cam gear, and to be absolutely sure that the gear is steel, I had to spend an additional $75 on a new gear. This pissed me off to some extent. I specifically requested a steel gear, and they didn't do it, and it cost me more money as a result. This was my second annoyance.
- Regarding the distributor again, they delivered it with the big two-piece cap (it's the updated duraspark setup). Because of the blower, I cant use the big cap, so I had to get a standard ford cap. I'm putting a 4-inch spacer between the intake and the blower. so I can use a cap with male terminals (like my MSD cap has). This means I won't have to "re-engineer" my plug wire ends.
- Up to now, I've been using OEM fox body accessory brackets. To say that they're ugly is a rather severe understatement. Besides that, removing the A/C compressor obviated the need to change the power steering bracket. I found and purchased a rather inexpensive billet aluminum alternator/power steering bracket kit that said it fit 79-93 302 and 351 Windsor engines. While it didn't say anything about serpentine belts, I assumed that the year range implied that the kit was appropriate. I got the kit yesterday. To put it bluntly, the kit was not appropriate for my application. This is what I get for trying to save a little money by buying something on Ebay. I identified the appropriate March brackets, and ordered them from Summit Racing (they're about 4x the cost of the Ebay kit).
- I got the carburetors used from a guy that switched over from carbs to EFI on his 671 blower, so I had to clean the carbs up a little. I also had to make some correct height air cleaner studs from 5/16-18 stainless all-thread.
- Dyer's needed my balancer, trigger wheel and crank pulley so they could determine if they needed to make an adapter, or make a whole new pulley because of my serpentine accessory belt. This is a free service if you buy a blower kit (which I did).
Dyer's says it should only take 4-5 hours to install the blower. I have confidence that my engine guy can do it in less time, especially since I've "plowed the road" for him by removing the front body work, radiator, fan and A/C stuff, and existing carburetor from the car, and the new crank pulley will already be installed, not to mention, all of the parts we've been able to identify will be on-hand.
Onward and upward.
Let me preface the following by saying that I like to get all my ducks in a row BEFORE doing something major to the car, because I hate surprises and delays caused by not being prepared. When I initially did the motor swap, I had all of the parts in a pile and the engine built BEFORE starting the swap. From start to finish, my engine/trans swap took just 28 calendar days, and we only had two minor fabrication items that we didn't expect. All in all, it went real smooth, and everyone was surprised at how quickly we finished. I want this blower install to be a similar experience.
- I decided to remove all A/C parts because, I don't need A/C and it kinda clutters the engine compartment. Fortunately, Ford made removing the A/C lines a minor exercise, and I managed to get them out without having to cut them. Of course, the fact that I have so much room in the engine compartment with the narrow Windsor motor really helped out.
- I had to remove the OEM radiator fan because the blower crank pulley and belt needed the space, and this caused me to have to order some pusher fans to mount on the front of the radiator. I got a call last Thursday saying they were on back-order for 2-4 weeks (best case), so I ordered them from Summit (at a higher cost), and they should be here by Tuesday or so. This was my first disappointment of the weekend.
- I got my distributor (Ford Duraspark from Performance Distributors), and had communicated with them that I needed a steel gear on it. Potential problem - the gear doesn't look like a steel part, and there's nothing in the box noting that it is steel. A cast iron gear will chew up my cam gear, and to be absolutely sure that the gear is steel, I had to spend an additional $75 on a new gear. This pissed me off to some extent. I specifically requested a steel gear, and they didn't do it, and it cost me more money as a result. This was my second annoyance.
- Regarding the distributor again, they delivered it with the big two-piece cap (it's the updated duraspark setup). Because of the blower, I cant use the big cap, so I had to get a standard ford cap. I'm putting a 4-inch spacer between the intake and the blower. so I can use a cap with male terminals (like my MSD cap has). This means I won't have to "re-engineer" my plug wire ends.
- Up to now, I've been using OEM fox body accessory brackets. To say that they're ugly is a rather severe understatement. Besides that, removing the A/C compressor obviated the need to change the power steering bracket. I found and purchased a rather inexpensive billet aluminum alternator/power steering bracket kit that said it fit 79-93 302 and 351 Windsor engines. While it didn't say anything about serpentine belts, I assumed that the year range implied that the kit was appropriate. I got the kit yesterday. To put it bluntly, the kit was not appropriate for my application. This is what I get for trying to save a little money by buying something on Ebay. I identified the appropriate March brackets, and ordered them from Summit Racing (they're about 4x the cost of the Ebay kit).
- I got the carburetors used from a guy that switched over from carbs to EFI on his 671 blower, so I had to clean the carbs up a little. I also had to make some correct height air cleaner studs from 5/16-18 stainless all-thread.
- Dyer's needed my balancer, trigger wheel and crank pulley so they could determine if they needed to make an adapter, or make a whole new pulley because of my serpentine accessory belt. This is a free service if you buy a blower kit (which I did).
Dyer's says it should only take 4-5 hours to install the blower. I have confidence that my engine guy can do it in less time, especially since I've "plowed the road" for him by removing the front body work, radiator, fan and A/C stuff, and existing carburetor from the car, and the new crank pulley will already be installed, not to mention, all of the parts we've been able to identify will be on-hand.
Onward and upward.
jsimmonstx
forum member
Jan 12 Update - Mainly just waiting for the blower...
- I got a call from Dyers last week, saying they were waiting for a couple of parts to come back from the polishers, and that the blower kit would ship this week. There's only one day left in the week, and I still haven't heard from them. I also found out that they ended up making me a whole new crank pulley from billet aluminum that the blower pulley bolts to. They needed to do this so I could keep my serpentine belt setup.
- I got the new March accessory brackets and installed them. The alternator kit required me to cut 1/4-inch off of two of the bolts so they could be threaded in all the way, but other than that, it was pretty easy going. The power steering side was a bit more problematic because I already had a March pulley on the power steering pump, and I couldn't use a standard power steering puller on it. I ended up having to combine three tools in order to get it off. I threaded the PS puller stud into a harmonic balancer puller, and threaded the PS puller nut onto the puller stud on the pulley side of the harmonic balancer puller. The, I put the box end of a 11/16 wrench on the PS puller nut. Finally, I used three long-ish bolts through the harmonic balancer to thread into the PS pulley. Wait a pain in the ass. Mounting the actual bracket and pump, and reinstalling the pulley was trivial (didn't need any weird tool combinations). BTW, I google it, and there doesn't appear to be a puller available just for the March pulley.
- After installing the new PS bracket, the pressure hose from the pump touches the header. Worst case - I may have to have a shorter hose made. Grrrrr...
- When I disconnected the power steering lines from the firewall, I was left with the two holes that the lines went into, a stud that was used to retain the bracket, and a weird trapezoidal recess in the firewall. I got some 1/8-inch aluminum sheet, and cut out an appropriately shaped piece, and covered the offending holes. I used the existing stud to attach it to the firewall. I wonder why Ford felt compelled to cut that hole the way they did (at about a 20-degree angle, and larger at the top than at the bottom).
- AN fittings are a big expense. I probably have $300-400 tied up in fittings alone. Beyond the modifications required to the existing fuel line, I had to come up with a method to vent the crankcase. It seems that when you run a blower, you shouldn't run a PCV valve. My solution was to replace my (newly polished) 427 ribbed valve covers with a set of fabricated covers that don't have breather holes in them, and weld male bungs onto them to accept a vent line that feeds into a catch can. I think I could have gotten away with -10AN, but I went with -12. We also have to decide on where to mount the catch can.
- I think I've found an OEM hood (that's even the right color) that I can cut up. I have to make a two-hour drive to pick it up, but that's okay. I won't know for sure until Friday because the seller is trying to find a local buyer before committing to also making a two-hour drive.
- We're going to relocate the expansion tank back to its general OEM location at the trailing edge of the radiator core support. The only issue there is that the OEM fan is no longer going to be used, so we have t fabricate a bracket to mount it (the expansion tank originally attached to the OEM fan shroud.
- I took a little time to polish some of the carb linkage parts.
- I got a call from Dyers last week, saying they were waiting for a couple of parts to come back from the polishers, and that the blower kit would ship this week. There's only one day left in the week, and I still haven't heard from them. I also found out that they ended up making me a whole new crank pulley from billet aluminum that the blower pulley bolts to. They needed to do this so I could keep my serpentine belt setup.
- I got the new March accessory brackets and installed them. The alternator kit required me to cut 1/4-inch off of two of the bolts so they could be threaded in all the way, but other than that, it was pretty easy going. The power steering side was a bit more problematic because I already had a March pulley on the power steering pump, and I couldn't use a standard power steering puller on it. I ended up having to combine three tools in order to get it off. I threaded the PS puller stud into a harmonic balancer puller, and threaded the PS puller nut onto the puller stud on the pulley side of the harmonic balancer puller. The, I put the box end of a 11/16 wrench on the PS puller nut. Finally, I used three long-ish bolts through the harmonic balancer to thread into the PS pulley. Wait a pain in the ass. Mounting the actual bracket and pump, and reinstalling the pulley was trivial (didn't need any weird tool combinations). BTW, I google it, and there doesn't appear to be a puller available just for the March pulley.
- After installing the new PS bracket, the pressure hose from the pump touches the header. Worst case - I may have to have a shorter hose made. Grrrrr...
- When I disconnected the power steering lines from the firewall, I was left with the two holes that the lines went into, a stud that was used to retain the bracket, and a weird trapezoidal recess in the firewall. I got some 1/8-inch aluminum sheet, and cut out an appropriately shaped piece, and covered the offending holes. I used the existing stud to attach it to the firewall. I wonder why Ford felt compelled to cut that hole the way they did (at about a 20-degree angle, and larger at the top than at the bottom).
- AN fittings are a big expense. I probably have $300-400 tied up in fittings alone. Beyond the modifications required to the existing fuel line, I had to come up with a method to vent the crankcase. It seems that when you run a blower, you shouldn't run a PCV valve. My solution was to replace my (newly polished) 427 ribbed valve covers with a set of fabricated covers that don't have breather holes in them, and weld male bungs onto them to accept a vent line that feeds into a catch can. I think I could have gotten away with -10AN, but I went with -12. We also have to decide on where to mount the catch can.
- I think I've found an OEM hood (that's even the right color) that I can cut up. I have to make a two-hour drive to pick it up, but that's okay. I won't know for sure until Friday because the seller is trying to find a local buyer before committing to also making a two-hour drive.
- We're going to relocate the expansion tank back to its general OEM location at the trailing edge of the radiator core support. The only issue there is that the OEM fan is no longer going to be used, so we have t fabricate a bracket to mount it (the expansion tank originally attached to the OEM fan shroud.
- I took a little time to polish some of the carb linkage parts.
jsimmonstx
forum member
A pic of the new March brackets installed:
jsimmonstx
forum member
jsimmonstx
forum member
Looks like a pretty tight fit there.
jsimmonstx
forum member
At this point, I gotta say that Dyer's has given me the absolute best customer service I've ever experienced in any industry.
They've been very patient with my endless questions.
I'm using a serpentine belt system, and they requested that I send them my balancer, trigger wheel and pulley so they could make a custom crank pulley for me for no additional charge over the cost of the kit.
It's taken a bit longer than usual for my stuff to be ready, and they're giving me a Duraspark distributor (the one in the picture) and a couple of t-shirts.
I told them I'm going to be using a 4-inch spacer between the intake and the blower, and they're sending me an appropriate-length belt at no extra charge.
Absolutely outstanding. (I think they're also the only blower shop that supports the serpentine accessories on SBFs).
They've been very patient with my endless questions.
I'm using a serpentine belt system, and they requested that I send them my balancer, trigger wheel and pulley so they could make a custom crank pulley for me for no additional charge over the cost of the kit.
It's taken a bit longer than usual for my stuff to be ready, and they're giving me a Duraspark distributor (the one in the picture) and a couple of t-shirts.
I told them I'm going to be using a 4-inch spacer between the intake and the blower, and they're sending me an appropriate-length belt at no extra charge.
Absolutely outstanding. (I think they're also the only blower shop that supports the serpentine accessories on SBFs).
08StangGT_CS
forum member
Great to hear!
jsimmonstx
forum member
08StangGT_CS
forum member
Wow... That thing looks beautiful. Still doing most of your work at 210 performance?
jsimmonstx
forum member
Yup. Chris will be installing the blower starting this weekend (I hope).
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