Man Without a Country?

jsimmonstx

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Well, I've been planning a swap to power steering (ostensibly so the wife can drive the car, but truth be told, the manual steering is killing me as well), and here's some stuff I've discovered along the way:

- I have to use a power steering rack from a 2005-2010 Mustang. This wasn't unexpected, and all S197's in that model year range use the same rack, including the Shelby's. This rack bolts right up to the BMR K-member that's already in the car. I have a rack.

- I have to use a pump from a Fox Mustang. Again, this was expected since the S197 pump mounts to the side of the block instead of a bracket on the front of the engine, as well as the need to have the pulley line up with the existing pullies. I have a pump and pulley.

- I contacted a place called "GottaShow", who specializes in custom power steering and A/C lines. I described what I was trying to do, and they told me which of their kits to get. Well, they were wrong. It seems that the kit expects a threaded connection on the rack, and that's not how the lines connected. They push in (sealing with an O-ring, kinda like a QD fitting) and are held in place with a bracket that bolts to the rack. I have to return the kit I bought.

Where I'm at with the lines right now:

The generic parts stores don't list a return line, and nobody in town had the pressure line, so I called Ford. The pressure line includes the bracket (but not the bolt), so I ordered all three parts (pressure line, return line, and bolt), and should have them by Wednesday. Then the fun begins.

I essentially have to remove the crimped-on rubber hoses, flare the rack ends of the hard lines, and build custom (stainless braided) lines with AN fittings to attach to the pump. I haven't called GottaShow yet because I want to make sure I'm going to be getting the right size fittings/hose - I'm pretty sure they'll have all the fittings I need. This means that the 18th is going to be the earliest I can try to do the steering swap.
 

jsimmonstx

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How's the ride doing?

I had the car in the shop this week to replace the UCA - last remaining OEM suspension component - with a BMR adjustable UCA, a Steeda bracket, and a Prothane pinion bushing. While that was being done, I had a new steel drive shaft made, using brand new 1350 u-joints.

All of that was done in an effort to chase down a driveline vibration that starts at about 85mph in 6th gear - I can feel it in the pedals and the shifter, and pushing in the clutch when it happens doesn't stop it, so I suspect the pinion angle is the reason, especially given that I've done all the stuff listed above.

When the holiday weekend is over, I'm gonna have the pinion angle checked.

Other than that one thing, it runs REALLY sweet, and is an instant attention getter at meets and shows.
 

DILYSI Dave

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FWIW - Last time I did a custom PS setup, I had the lines made at a local hydraulic shop. Took in the rack and the pump and told them to make a line that was however long and coupled the two. Worked great, cost $80, and was made while I waited.
 

jsimmonstx

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FWIW - Last time I did a custom PS setup, I had the lines made at a local hydraulic shop. Took in the rack and the pump and told them to make a line that was however long and coupled the two. Worked great, cost $80, and was made while I waited.

That's what I did - we cut a 2009 pressure line a few inches after the 90-degree bend at the rack end, and cut a Fox pressure line at the rubber just before the rack end, and took it to a hydraulic shop and told them where to cut it and how to align in. Cost $35 for a custom line. We also had to make custom hard lines for the rack to clear the oil pan.
 

jsimmonstx

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A couple of updates:

- The OEM fuel pump crapped out on in March. I think it was because the pump wasn't designed to be in a return style fuel system. We disassembled the OEM fuel hat and replaced the stock pump with a Walbro. So far so good.

- Ever since completing the swap, I've had the "charging system" error flashing on the info display, despite the fact that volt gauge shows 14v at startup and eventually settling down to about 13.5. I also had the original battery die on me. I recently found out that the 2012 alternator is a 135-amp part, and I'm running a Gen-3 130-amp alternator. I figure the dash display might be on because the PCM doesn't see the enough amps coming off the alternator, so I've ordered a 150-amp alternator from Summit Racing. As for the inability to keep the battery charged, I'm kind of at a loss (unless it's simply because the unit is used, and has an unknown history).

I suppose

In other news, I went racing a few weeks ago to see what the car would do, and bent a pushrod, but not before doing three passes (street tires, pump gas, no special preparation in terms of suspension or weight distribution).

13.2335 @ 117.8mph - 60-ft 2.4210

13.3929 @ 96.59mph - 60-ft 2.1076 (rolled thru some oil on track at the big end as I shifted into 4th)

13.2358 @ 117.6mph - 60-ft 2.4134

I've been told those are 11-second trap speeds, so I'm gonna say I ended up with an 11-second car. :)
 

07TR

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This is crazy I don't know what to say other than wow
 

jsimmonstx

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Here's a more recent video. This was after I added a roll bar to the car, but before the racing seats and electric cutouts. I also added an aluminum expansion tank.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qn5xtoIVdZU

I picked up a brand new set of the same valve covers for $50, and I'm in the middle of stripping/polishing them. I also decided to remove the alternator bracket, strip/smooth it, and paint it satin black like the rest of the brackets. I got dinged in a recent car show in the engine compartment (I received only 7 out of 10 points), so I'm taking some steps to clean it up a little. I'm probably going to polish the expansion tank as well.
 

83-88T-Bird Guy

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Here's a more recent video. This was after I added a roll bar to the car, but before the racing seats and electric cutouts. I also added an aluminum expansion tank.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qn5xtoIVdZU

I picked up a brand new set of the same valve covers for $50, and I'm in the middle of stripping/polishing them. I also decided to remove the alternator bracket, strip/smooth it, and paint it satin black like the rest of the brackets. I got dinged in a recent car show in the engine compartment (I received only 7 out of 10 points), so I'm taking some steps to clean it up a little. I'm probably going to polish the expansion tank as well.

Looks sharp !

You guys with the pushrod engine swaps have me thinking about finding a s197 v6 car and doing a 351w swap
 

83-88T-Bird Guy

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I'm currently trying to get the wife to authorize a 671 blower upgrade for xmas. I'm hopeful, but not optimistic.




21alfp.jpg
 

jsimmonstx

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And the purchase has been approved:

Dyers 351w blower kit
Two QuickFuel 650 draw through carbs
Duraspark distributor
Linkage
Fuel Lines
Fan relocation (gonna have to go with a pusher fan).

My current Edelbrock Air Gap intake and QuickFuel 850CFM black diamond carb (with jet and bleed kits) are for sale if anyone needs them.
 

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