MCleod RST, RXT clutch

[skwerl]

Shane, I believe he means you don't want to take the big gold ring off the red plate. It's held together with 12 point bolt heads so your six point sockets wouldn't fit anyway.

 

[AlbertD]

Edit: Misinformation...

 

[AutoXRacer]

The pic above is incorrect. You do not want to remove the gold ring. The bolts circled above are ok to r&r.

Do not remove the gold ring bolted to the flywheel.

Btw, that Magnum safety loop may not be compatible with your MAC install. I could not use it due to interference with my exhaust.

 

[rzaenglein]

yes I checked with tasca and jpc today, looking at $220 for the oem slave, I may of confused the pricing when I replaced my master cylinder. I believe I'm going to try the 13+ plus gt500 master cylinder. Only $75 from tasca. Supposed to move more fluid quicker for quicker clutch release.

 

[AlbertD]

The pic above is incorrect. You do not want to remove the gold ring. The bolts circled above are ok to r&r.

Do not remove the gold ring bolted to the flywheel.

Btw, that Magnum safety loop may not be compatible with your MAC install. I could not use it due to interference with my exhaust.

Hmm... that is interesting. Must be different for the TR6060 then, my flywheel came without the adapter ring installed. The only portion I thought shouldn't be messed with was the floater plate. I may be wrong, but could you explain the reasoning behind not removing the adapter ring?

Edit: nevermind, I read the instructions for the modular install and see that it is different than the TR6060. Disregard my comment, sorry for the confusion!

 

[BruceH]

Hmm... that is interesting. Must be different for the TR6060 then, my flywheel came without the adapter ring installed. The only portion I thought shouldn't be messed with was the floater plate. I may be wrong, but could you explain the reasoning behind not removing the adapter ring?

Edit: nevermind, I read the instructions for the modular install and see that it is different than the TR6060. Disregard my comment, sorry for the confusion!

They are the same clutch except for the hubs spline count. You are correct, the floater is setup on the ring with specific shimming and you don't want to screw with it. I thought that is what we were talking about in the first place? It's what I was talking about anyway. Maybe I worded it wrong or in a strange way.

 

[AutoXRacer]

yes I checked with tasca and jpc today, looking at $220 for the oem slave, I may of confused the pricing when I replaced my master cylinder. I believe I'm going to try the 13+ plus gt500 master cylinder. Only $75 from tasca. Supposed to move more fluid quicker for quicker clutch release.

NO!!!! The 2011 and newer GT500 is a totally different slave and will not work unless you use a GT500 clutch!!!

 

[AutoXRacer]

OK, lets clear this up...

When you buy a clutch and flywheel setup from McLeod or send yours to be speced/inspected and setup, McLeod will install the gold ring onto the flywheel.

This is the part that had a lot of issues in the past because it was manufactured incorrectly. McLeod has specific tolerances and it has to be setup perfectly otherwise you will have the issues we all had a few years back where you can no longer shift after the car/clutch is hot (bottom disc drags). I remember a conversation with McLeod where they told me some of the issues with their clutch stemmed from owners installing the gold ring and then using loctite (lots of it) on the bolts which got between the ring and flywheel and created tolerance issues. Thats how critical it is.

OK, so McLeod will setup the gold ring onto the flywheel and it should not be removed!! If you purchase a McLeod clutch kit and use your own flywheel, then of course the gold ring will have to be installed by you. But McLeod recommend sending the flywheel and clutch kit to them and they will set it up for you and ship it back.

This is the gold ring installed onto a flywheel.

If you get your clutch setup by McLeod, then DO NOT touch the bolts below!!

When you get your clutch and flywheel back from McLeod, all you have to do is remove the pressure plate, top disc, floater plate, and bottom disc.

Pressure plate (red)

Top Disc

Floating plate

Bottom disc (don't have a picture). lol

Gold ring and flywheel.

Oh and I highly suggest to get a set of ARP flywheel bolts!!!
Do not use the stock bolts as according to McLeod, the stock bolts, the head is taller and has been found to contact the clutch disc. Not sure if this was an isolated case or its common, but the ARP bolts, the heads are flatter and are advised to be used with the McLeod twin disc clutches.

Pay attention to the black stripe on the clutch as it has to be installed with all parts clocked correctly.
And make sure NOT TO USE loctite on any of the bolts; McLeod provides locking washers.

DO USE loctite on the ARP flywheel to crank bolts!!!

I hope this helps!!

 

[07 procharger]

I to had to remove my Jpc driveshaft loop. It was contacting my kooks x pipe.

 

[BruceH]

I've always removed the adapter ring from the flywheel. The clutch kit itself comes without a flywheel so the point is mute. The torques need to be followed though. IMO the part not to remove is the floater plate. There is a set of instructions floating around that say to remove it and verify the shims. That's an old set of instructions and iirc they were for the gen 4 Camaros.

 

[rzaenglein]

NO!!!! The 2011 and newer GT500 is a totally different slave and will not work unless you use a GT500 clutch!!!

using the gt500 master cylinder, not the slave cylinder. From what I've read on another tread people on here have used them with good results

 

[AutoXRacer]

using the gt500 master cylinder, not the slave cylinder. From what I've read on another tread people on here have used them with good results

What is the difference between the GT and GT500 master cylinder?
Isn't it a PITA to R&R??

 

[rzaenglein]

What is the difference between the GT and GT500 master cylinder?
Isn't it a PITA to R&R??

From what I have gathered, Its made of metal vs plastic (so no flexing or swelling) and has a bigger bore to move more fluid quicker for a quicker clutch release. I ordered one today from JPC, they said it would fit and work on our cars.

I've installed 2 different ways, with the pedal assembly in the car its a bit of a pain to get the back bolt in and out, Its honestly a lot easier IMO to take the whole pedal assembly out, few bolts, clips, sensors, and 2 body control modules of some sort, I'm assuming and its out. You can then change the master effortlessly.

Here is a link to a thread about it if anyone wants more info:
http://www.s197forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=104247&highlight=gt500+master+cylinder

 

[BruceH]

What is the difference between the GT and GT500 master cylinder?
Isn't it a PITA to R&R??

It's not that bad. 45-60 minutes. Just know that the pedals have to be unbolted and don't spend a bunch of time trying to get around it.

 

[AutoXRacer]

It's not that bad. 45-60 minutes. Just know that the pedals have to be unbolted and don't spend a bunch of time trying to get around it.

Is it worth the 45-60 mins install time?
I have never had an issue with my stock master cylinder.

 

[rzaenglein]

If you have no issue with shifting your car I would leave it as is. I think the slave getting killed by stiff diaphragm springs and getting everything shimmed correctly is the main thing. I just decided to do everything at once, I shift very quickly and wanna make sure that my clutch is FULLY disengaged when banging gears on my tr6060

 

[DiMora]

I've always removed the adapter ring from the flywheel. The clutch kit itself comes without a flywheel so the point is mute. The torques need to be followed though. IMO the part not to remove is the floater plate. There is a set of instructions floating around that say to remove it and verify the shims. That's an old set of instructions and iirc they were for the gen 4 Camaros.

I'll call and speak with Lee at McLeod after I get my setup back and clarify everything and then post up the skinny here. I really need to make sure it is done right.

 

[tbrock]

I was one of the unlucky few that got several of their clutches with bad floater plates, and yes it was installed correctly. Lee walked the Ford tech through the install. Clutch was butter smooth for about 1000 mile and then I couldn't get the car out of gear. Same story with the 2nd clutch, and the 3rd. Every time same issue drove me freakin nuts! I used their aluminum FW and a new slave cylinder. I spent a year chasing the issue along with a butt ton of money due to their crappy product. Not a fan at all. Mach 500 now with a stock FW 2 years, several track days and thousands of miles later car still shifts great.

Get it done right and good luck.

 

[AutoXRacer]

All the McLeod issues stemmed from bad machining of the gold ring...nothing wrong with the floater.

There are no shims in the floater...shims are used with the gold ring.

 

[BruceH]

All the McLeod issues stemmed from bad machining of the gold ring...nothing wrong with the floater.

There are no shims in the floater...shims are used with the gold ring.

The adapter ring is what bolts to the flywheel. The bolts you showed aren't fastened until the clutch is installed so removing them is a moot point.

The floater is installed to the adapter ring (which happens to be gold on your clutch, the colors have changed over the years) What you don't want to do is remove the floater from the ring. It is shimmed by McLeod to keep the clutch disks at the proper distance from the flywheel and pressure plate.