Never ending problem!!!! Limp Mode/Wrench Light

[SwissBullitt]

I just make it short...

I have the famous wrench light coming up since this summer
at the beginning just once in a long while, than it started more often and now its every day more times a day...this is what I did to solve the problem:

changed tunes, replaced 2 TPS sensors, replaced the whole TB with sensors, adjusted the TPS voltage several times (cuz it was on 1.47 volts when I checked and thought that I've finally found the problem, I was wrong)

now I've come to a point that I don't know more what to do, I tried to search other solutions on other "wrench light" threads and forums, but there isnt a right solution for everyone...

if someone has an idea I would really appreciate it because its has been a while that I can't enjoy driving my mustang.

thanks for you help
regards

Chris

 

[SwissBullitt]

ahh the code that I always get its the P2135...
throttle position sensor - voltage correlation etc...

just that code, no others!

 

[GrnBullitt08]

Are you still running the stock CMCV plates
?

 

[19COBRA93]

I have a feeling it's something to do with the new TPS sensors. Ford has a "reprogram" for when the TPS is replaced on certain years. There's a calibration difference. I've heard SCT has a patch for this calibration change. I put a new throttle body on mine and started getting the same thing (failsafe mode almost everytime I drove it). I have since reinstalled my original throttle body and problem went away. I'm still looking into the programming change, but until then I'm just running my original throtttle body and sensors.

 

[SwissBullitt]

Are you still running the stock CMCV plates
?

well I think no since I have a S/C... the stock intake was replace with the one of the S/C... I hope I'm not saying stupid things

 

[SwissBullitt]

I have a feeling it's something to do with the new TPS sensors. Ford has a "reprogram" for when the TPS is replaced on certain years. There's a calibration difference. I've heard SCT has a patch for this calibration change. I put a new throttle body on mine and started getting the same thing (failsafe mode almost everytime I drove it). I have since reinstalled my original throttle body and problem went away. I'm still looking into the programming change, but until then I'm just running my original throtttle body and sensors.

I've passed trough 3 TBs, my stock one, the one a friend had and the new one I just installed...problem is still there...I did the TPS voltage calibration like it should be done, getting it between 1.19-1.31 volts...but it did not change anything...well just for a few days only!

 

[GrnBullitt08]

well I think no since I have a S/C... the stock intake was replace with the one of the S/C... I hope I'm not saying stupid things

I didnt see that....and yes your right that would be a no

 

[07VistaChicago]

Did you lengthen your TPS wires? I had this problem and the intermittent P2135 wrench. Go back and solder each connection. I soldered on one half of the connections and it happened to be the other half. Soldered them, then fixed the problem. I am willing to bet, if you lengthen your wires, that is the problem.

 

[BlownAway05]

Make sure you have no loose wires. I had a loose wire in the wiring harness and it caused erratic failsafe modes. Replaced throttle body, TPS, all that and it still happened. Ended up being a loose wire.

 

[SwissBullitt]

Did you lengthen your TPS wires? I had this problem and the intermittent P2135 wrench. Go back and solder each connection. I soldered on one half of the connections and it happened to be the other half. Soldered them, then fixed the problem. I am willing to bet, if you lengthen your wires, that is the problem.

no I didnt, I was looking for the TPS wire extension that are sold in some kits, I think the roush has it, but anyways couldnt find it...

well I will try this week end to solder them and make them also longer...

this seems to be a really common problem...

thank you guys for your help..will keep u posted!

 

[kevinatfms]

check your tp1(TB) to your tp2(pedal assembly) numbers with your handheld. they should have the same values but one goes from neg to pos while the other goes pos to neg. if the correlation between the two isnt the same they think either the pedal assembly is grounded internally or the tb is sticking and will cause the car to go into failsafe mode. this is to prevent an out of control vehicle if they were to ever get stuck open.

 

[19COBRA93]

check your tp1(TB) to your tp2(pedal assembly) numbers with your handheld. they should have the same values but one goes from neg to pos while the other goes pos to neg. if the correlation between the two isnt the same they think either the pedal assembly is grounded internally or the tb is sticking and will cause the car to go into failsafe mode. this is to prevent an out of control vehicle if they were to ever get stuck open.

If the values are off, how do you correct for it?

 

[SwissBullitt]

check your tp1(TB) to your tp2(pedal assembly) numbers with your handheld. they should have the same values but one goes from neg to pos while the other goes pos to neg. if the correlation between the two isnt the same they think either the pedal assembly is grounded internally or the tb is sticking and will cause the car to go into failsafe mode. this is to prevent an out of control vehicle if they were to ever get stuck open.

can you give me a quick step-by-step explanation where to check those values in my handheld?

 

[TexasBlownV8]

Also, in the Ford Service manual, it gives procedures for diagnosing failsafes. In addition to the TPS, the crankshaft position sensor and maf are in the list of things checked.