Noise Issues that I need help with

[Boaisy]

So I recently installed the following parts yesterday:

DSS Carbon Fiber Driveshaft (courtesy of the sale Lethal had Dec. 19th)
BMR Front Driveshaft brace and loop
BMR Rear Driveshaft brace and loop

1. Part of the reason I upgraded the driveshaft was to get rid of the god awful two-piece (bitch is heavy), and was thinking it would get rid of a couple of noises I've been getting at highway speeds. I had a slight vibration and a howling noise. With the new driveshaft, that vibration has disappeared (YAY!), but there is still the howling noise (though not as bad). It seems to want to kick in around 45 mph, and is the most audible between 60-65 mph. As you approach 70-75 mph, the pitch of the howl gets higher so is starts to die off. If you let the car coast with the clutch engaged, or if you apply throttle, you can hear it (the noise kind of "bounces" a bit when coasting). If I put the clutch to the floor, it goes away (uphill and downhill). NOTE: I still have to replace my differential as I know that it is already bad (next thing on the to-do list), I do have a Whiteline Adj. UCA, and the car is not lowered (yet).

2. The other noise issue I have came up after the install. To install one of the braces, it tells you to loosen the clamps joining the H-Pipe/Rear Mid-pipe so you can wiggle them about to stick the front brace in (also lowering the transmission mount as well). I thought I had moved the pipes back in as far as I could last night until I started driving home. There is a deep grumble of the exhaust that I can hear, and to me sound like it is around the driver area floor.

Today, I loosened the clamps again, and pushed the pipes from the tips and heard the left side slide in more while the passenger side didn't move any further. I had my dad help me check to see if there was any exhaust leaks after tightening the clamps. His method, that he has always used, is to block the tailpipes with rags, and listen for any noises coming from the front. We did not hear anything so I figured it was fixed. However, on my way to work, I would still hear that exhaust grumble from the floor area, and it seems to come up around 2,000 RPM. Could one of the clamps from the H-Pipe/Cats need to be readjusted? Is it a noise that is being transmitted by the add-ons? I did not hear this kind of noise before the parts were added, which is why I am concerned.

Any help would be appreciated.

 

[skwerl]

You gotta crawl under the car to see if the exhaust pipes are all the way into the clamps. Easy enough to see the impressions on the pipes where they were clamped before. You can also have your dad or somebody start up the car then feel around the pipe joints for exhaust leaks.

As far as the noise at speed, possibly the gears. All gears make noise, some more than others.

 

[zeroescape]

What is your pinion angle at now?

 

[Boaisy]

What is your pinion angle at now?

That is something I can't check at home right now. Last time I had the UCA installed (In November), and checked for pinion angle (at a Ford dealer), they said everything was "in spec." They didn't give me a number. I've been thinking about buying a tool myself to measure it.

 

[Deleted member 162826]

A little off topic, but when did you order that dss? Specific time of day? I did mine literally 20 minutes after they released the code around 9:30 my time and still have not received it. Kinda crazy how long it takes to ship something that can be built in a day..

 

[Boaisy]

A little off topic, but when did you order that dss? Specific time of day? I did mine literally 20 minutes after they released the code around 9:30 my time and still have not received it. Kinda crazy how long it takes to ship something that can be built in a day..

I ended up contacting them last Monday, and they said they had just gotten the tracking number on mine. Got it Thursday last week. The BMR stuff that I ordered last Wednesday came on Friday. When I ordered the DSS, it was around noonish CST I believe. They did have a note stating it takes 2-4 weeks for some of the driveshafts to ship because they are built to order. I happened to contact them at the 4th week I guess.



ON TOPIC: As far as the exhaust noise, I think I found out where it is coming from. It is the joint between the Cats/H-Pipe. I had someone rev it up to 2,500-3,000, and you can see it coming out from the passenger side. It isn't "dumping" exhaust, but it is trailing enough "smoke" out to spot it. It is also 20* outside so that helped a bit. I tried messing with it at the house (I don't have a lift here), but couldn't get it sealed right. I made an appointment with the Ford dealer tomorrow, and I'm going to talk with one of the techs to check the pinion angle while he is at it. Since I used to work there, I know half of the techs anyways.

 

[Boaisy]

Dropped it off at the dealer today. They were a bit backed up, so I got a loaner (2011 MX-5 I took in on trade before I left). They called me at work, and the tech they put on it (a newer guy to the dealer) tried to tell me that the exhaust is working how it is intended from the factory, and that the area that I saw the exhaust expelling from is supposed to be an "air tight" seal. I explained to him that he had to rev it to 2,500-3,000 rpm to feel/hear the exhaust leak, and that it never sounded like that (in the 2-3 years I've had this exhaust setup) until Sunday night.

They are going to have the service manager look at it tomorrow morning.

 

[Boaisy]

So I guess when installing my stuff, I ended up bending the tip of the H-pipe that connects to the Cat. The round end is slightly bent inwards causing the "leak." Ford won't warranty it because it was damaged by factors outside of their control I guess you could say. So if I'm going to have to pay to replace the H-Pipe, I told them I'll go ahead and get a Borla X-Pipe and over axle pipe instead.

 

[nyuk98GT]

Boaisy:

For that bent part of the h-pipe, how about using a pipe expander to 're-round' the pipe? It seems a bit extreme to replace the whole pipe for one bent corner. Maybe the bent part is bigger than I am imagining it is?

Got any pics of the carnage?

Chris

 

[Boaisy]

I don't have any pictures right now, and probably won't until the X-Pipe goes on. The X-Pipe and over axle pipe are things I've been planning on doing anyways, just was planning for them much later. I've got another thing to worry about to, but it might be because of the bend. My CEL came on when I went to "lunch" about an hour ago. I'll have to run the tool on it tomorrow to see what code it may be.

What I can do is MS Paint one up real quick just to give you an idea. EDIT: Attached. I believe that is an accurate description.

 

[bullitt boy]

pac man is attacking your car?

 

[skwerl]

Try some Permatex muffler and tailpipe sealer. It comes in a tube like the RTV silicone gasket maker/sealant stuff.

 

[Boaisy]

pac man is attacking your car?

I think it was one of those damn newbie smileys.

 

[Eel Mit]

The whine that changes pitch on/off throttle is often due to improper backlash on a gear install.

If the gears are original, then you should suspect an inner (or outer) pinion bearing. Due to the pitch of the gear cut, the ring and pinion will climb / thread into each other which loads and unloads the pinion bearings, causing the change in whine.

Good luck!

Tim

 

[nyuk98GT]

Boaisy,

Thanks for the e-sketch - easy to understand the shape of the dent.

I think that dent is fixable (not that I know much about muffler piping), maybe with a little heat (torch) to help when trying to reshape the metal.

Good luck with the repair and the new parts.

Chris

 

[Boaisy]

CEL code is P0300. Since the engine isn't running rough, I hope it is something to do with the leak with it being next to the cat/O2 sensors.

I wouldn't mind rebending the "lip," but since X-pipe is on the list of future mods, might as well just put 'er on.

 

[konablue11gt]

That is a random misfire code..tread carefully with that one my friend.

 

[Boaisy]

It went off by itself last night, and has not come back on since. I'll be looking out for it.

 

[Boaisy]

OK. While I have not fixed the exhaust leak yet, I am tackling the rear end. I bought an Eaton Truetrac today (w00t!), and also bought Torco 80W-90 dino gear oil. I was reading quite a few forums, and some people said they have had some good success with it and the Eaton. Also putting a new Ford Racing 3.73 and bearing kit (M-4210-B2) since the rear end is going to be open anyways. Topping it off with the Whiteline Watts Link (Even more exciting!).

My question is when I was shopping for this oil, I also noticed that it came in a 85w-140 variant (dino oil still). Would that be too heavy for the rear end? Would it be better than the 80w-90? Reading their site, it said it was more for heavy loaded/heavy shock racing.

 

[5lho]

I use Redline HD shockproof. That stuff will stick to the ceiling if you toss it at the roof. It's for extreme pressure applications like drag racing on slicks. I like the extra protection since I launch the car at high rpm on slicks. If you aren't doing this then the 80W90 is fine.