Val Valdez

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I have 2 o2 sensor codes. I replaced all the o2 sensor with NTK sensors. Cleaned MAF and Throttle body. replace coil pack, wires and plugs. Codes are still coming up. Any tips on to get rid of these.
 

Dino Dino Bambino

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I have 2 o2 sensor codes. I replaced all the o2 sensor with NTK sensors. Cleaned MAF and Throttle body. replace coil pack, wires and plugs. Codes are still coming up. Any tips on to get rid of these.

Most O2 sensor codes are caused by an underlying fault and not by the o2 sensors themselves. Tell us which codes you're getting, and what symptoms you're experiencing when driving the car, so we can help you troubleshoot the problem.
Is the engine down on power?
Does the engine misfire, bog down, hesitate, stumble, or run rough?
Does the engine have an uneven idle or stall?
Have you done any mods?
Does the ECU have an aftermarket tune?
More information would be helpful.
 

Val Valdez

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I have 2 o2 sensor codes. I replaced all the o2 sensor with NTK sensors. Cleaned MAF and Throttle body. replace coil pack, wires and plugs. Codes are still coming up. Any tips on to get rid of these.

Sorry I disappeared, but I'm back now.

Ran the codes again to be sure. It came up with nine codes with four of those repeated. Here are the codes in order
P0135 - O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Bank 1 Sensor 1
P0141- O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Bank 1 Sensor 2
P0155- O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Bank 2 Sensor 1
P0161- O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Bank 2 Sensor 2
P0443 - Evaporative Emission System Purge Control Valve Circuit
P0135 - O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Bank 1 Sensor 1
P0155- O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Bank 2 Sensor 1
P0161- O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Bank 2 Sensor 2
P0443 - Evaporative Emission System Purge Control Valve Circuit
 

Val Valdez

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Sorry i disappeared, but I'm back now.

See the codes I'm getting below and answers to your questions

Most O2 sensor codes are caused by an underlying fault and not by the o2 sensors themselves. Tell us which codes you're getting, and what symptoms you're experiencing when driving the car, so we can help you troubleshoot the problem.

Is the engine down on power? No
Does the engine misfire, bog down, hesitate, stumble, or run rough? No, but it did. That is what caused the check engine light to come on. I had three O2 sensor codes and a couple misfires. After changing all four sensors, the coil pack, wires and plugs all was better but O2 Sensor codes didn't go away. So i cleaned MAF and Throttle Body and they're still coming up.
Does the engine have an uneven idle or stall? No
Have you done any mods? No
Does the ECU have an aftermarket tune? No
More information would be helpful.

Here are the codes in order
P0135 - O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Bank 1 Sensor 1
P0141- O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Bank 1 Sensor 2
P0155- O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Bank 2 Sensor 1
P0161- O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Bank 2 Sensor 2
P0443 - Evaporative Emission System Purge Control Valve Circuit
P0135 - O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Bank 1 Sensor 1
P0155- O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Bank 2 Sensor 1
P0161- O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Bank 2 Sensor 2
P0443 - Evaporative Emission System Purge Control Valve Circuit

Should I change out the EVAP Purge Valve and see what that does?
 
Last edited:

Juice

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Alot of those codes make me think you have a blown fuse or fuses. I belive all the O2 heaters run off one circuit. The other codes could be a no 12v supply also.

Check all your fuses. Atleast the ones under the hood.
 

GlassTop09

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Sorry i disappeared, but I'm back now.

See the codes I'm getting below and answers to your questions



Here are the codes in order
P0135 - O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Bank 1 Sensor 1
P0141- O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Bank 1 Sensor 2
P0155- O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Bank 2 Sensor 1
P0161- O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Bank 2 Sensor 2
P0443 - Evaporative Emission System Purge Control Valve Circuit
P0135 - O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Bank 1 Sensor 1
P0155- O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Bank 2 Sensor 1
P0161- O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Bank 2 Sensor 2
P0443 - Evaporative Emission System Purge Control Valve Circuit

Should I change out the EVAP Purge Valve and see what that does?
These DTC's are all circuit DTC's meaning the PCM is not seeing the +12v at the PCM terminal pins (these parts are PWM controlled by the PCM using - circuit grounds) so it looks for the +12v voltage signal from the BEC fuse box thru the wiring thru the O2 sensor heaters\EVAP CPV coil thru the return wiring to the PCM terminals on KOEO to determine if the wiring\parts are electrically sound & the power is there to operate them.
The 1st place to check is the fuse in the BEC.....fuse #45 I believe is the 10A mini fuse that powers these 2. Since you're getting the DTC codes for both B1\B2 1\2 O2 sensor heater circuits AND the EVAP CPV circuit it's most likely the fuse is blown as these separate control circuits are powered thru the same fuse. In the Owner's Manual fuse #45 10A mini is listed as the PCM fuse in the BEC (fuse box under the hood) but this fuse powers the O2 sensor heater circuits, EVAP CPV coil circuit, both VCT solenoids circuit & brake pedal circuit...according to wiring schematics from the Ford Workshop Manual.

Now if you do find the fuse is blown you'll then need to find the culprit(s) that is shorting out the circuit. If the fuse is not blown then you'll need to find the break in the wiring.

Hope this helps you out.

PS--What Juice said...…………...
 

Val Valdez

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These DTC's are all circuit DTC's meaning the PCM is not seeing the +12v at the PCM terminal pins (these parts are PWM controlled by the PCM using - circuit grounds) so it looks for the +12v voltage signal from the BEC fuse box thru the wiring thru the O2 sensor heaters\EVAP CPV coil thru the return wiring to the PCM terminals on KOEO to determine if the wiring\parts are electrically sound & the power is there to operate them.
The 1st place to check is the fuse in the BEC.....fuse #45 I believe is the 10A mini fuse that powers these 2. Since you're getting the DTC codes for both B1\B2 1\2 O2 sensor heater circuits AND the EVAP CPV circuit it's most likely the fuse is blown as these separate control circuits are powered thru the same fuse. In the Owner's Manual fuse #45 10A mini is listed as the PCM fuse in the BEC (fuse box under the hood) but this fuse powers the O2 sensor heater circuits, EVAP CPV coil circuit, both VCT solenoids circuit & brake pedal circuit...according to wiring schematics from the Ford Workshop Manual.

Now if you do find the fuse is blown you'll then need to find the culprit(s) that is shorting out the circuit. If the fuse is not blown then you'll need to find the break in the wiring.

Hope this helps you out.

PS--What Juice said...…………...

I checked the fuse. It's not blown. What would you suggest to try next? Change out EVAP CPV?
 

Juice

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If it's fuse #45, Theres a 10a in there now. not blown. should it be a 15a?
If it is not blown, leave it. 10 A is fine.
Out of curiosity, are you using a test light to check fuses?
Its the fastest way, turn key to On, engine Off. And just probe the two slots on each fuse.
 

GlassTop09

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I checked the fuse. It's not blown. What would you suggest to try next? Change out EVAP CPV?
1st, how did you verify that the fuse isn't bad? Visual inspection or tested w\ a test light? A test light is the better method as it will confirm that the fuse is 1.) actually getting power from the ignition switch (need to verify this as if no power from the ign switch then the fuse isn't the issue) as well as 2.) verifying the fuse itself is good (sometimes the visual inspection of the fusible link section of a fuse can be misleading as the link can be broken internally from either blade w\ the viewable link section in the middle still intact).

Again......what Juice said...…………..

Your issue is an electrical circuit problem so you will need to check the power & wiring integrity from the BEC w\ KOEO, thru the fuse, then to each of the O2 sensor harness side connectors & the EVAP CPV connector as the wiring splits downstream of the fuse under the BEC to then run separately to the O2 sensor harness connectors, the EVAP CPV\CVS harness connectors to see if the power, once verified is getting to then thru the fuse, is getting to these connectors to the parts. Or verify power is getting to then thru the fuse then KOEO & check the PCM to see if the codes have cleared. This side is the easier to rectify...……….

You have already spent money & swapped out the O2 sensors w\o the DTC's clearing for them which has verified that 1.) your original O2 sensor heater circuits were good thus the O2 sensors themselves were not the culprits & 2.) there is still no power getting to\thru the O2 sensor heater circuits to the PCM so the odds of the same being true w\ the EVAP CPV, since they share power w\ the O2 sensors, is very high but you can change it out if you want......it's your money.
 

Val Valdez

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@Juice & @GlassTop09 Will do. I gotta pick up one of these light testers. I have an AC Voltage detector, that isn't picking up anything lol I guess its not the same lol
 

Val Valdez

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@Juice @GlassTop09 New update fellas! I picked up test light and checked the fuse. Works fine. I got anxious and bought the EVAP Purge valve, replaced it and rechecked the codes. No more "P0443 - Evaporative Emission System Purge Control Valve Circuit" code. All four "O2 Sensor Heater Circuit" codes still coming up.
 

Val Valdez

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1st, how did you verify that the fuse isn't bad? Visual inspection or tested w\ a test light? A test light is the better method as it will confirm that the fuse is 1.) actually getting power from the ignition switch (need to verify this as if no power from the ign switch then the fuse isn't the issue) as well as 2.) verifying the fuse itself is good (sometimes the visual inspection of the fusible link section of a fuse can be misleading as the link can be broken internally from either blade w\ the viewable link section in the middle still intact).

Again......what Juice said...…………..

Your issue is an electrical circuit problem so you will need to check the power & wiring integrity from the BEC w\ KOEO, thru the fuse, then to each of the O2 sensor harness side connectors & the EVAP CPV connector as the wiring splits downstream of the fuse under the BEC to then run separately to the O2 sensor harness connectors, the EVAP CPV\CVS harness connectors to see if the power, once verified is getting to then thru the fuse, is getting to these connectors to the parts. Or verify power is getting to then thru the fuse then KOEO & check the PCM to see if the codes have cleared. This side is the easier to rectify...……….

You have already spent money & swapped out the O2 sensors w\o the DTC's clearing for them which has verified that 1.) your original O2 sensor heater circuits were good thus the O2 sensors themselves were not the culprits & 2.) there is still no power getting to\thru the O2 sensor heater circuits to the PCM so the odds of the same being true w\ the EVAP CPV, since they share power w\ the O2 sensors, is very high but you can change it out if you want......it's your money.

I re-read what you wrote. If i'm understanding correctly... Since I have now verified that power is getting to the fuse from the BEC, and EVAP CPV is no longer an issue, i now need to verify power is going thru the fuse to the connectors of the o2 sensors, correct?
 

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