Opinions on motor mounts please

Phil1098

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I'm considering installing aftermarket motor mounts, just wondered from real experiences what everyone that has put them in think. The considered are: Steeda, BMR, Prothane bullets, and any other suggestions. Looking for some middle ground, want some compliance, but realize firmer means more NVH.
 

The01Cav

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I have the prothane on my car, they're nice looking, but do give a noticeable amount of vibrations at idle and just off of idle. Otherwise I like them.
 

AnotherS197

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I have the prothanes. On first start up I thought something was wrong from so much added vibration, now I don't even notice the extra amount and it feels the way the car should IMO. Girlfriend didn't notice, but a few car-savvy friends did. My cams emphasize the vibrations I'm sure.

Didn't notice much as far as performance, still get an occasional 1-2 crunch when really revved up and torqued (ie, doing a burnout and starting to leave, I've never had an issue at the track), which I was hoping to eliminate. Overall I like the mod.
 

07 Boss

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I had a set of prothane Bullet mounts but gave them away to someone here, I believe, when I swapped k-members. If you use a BMR K-member you have to use their mounts.

 

BruceH

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I have the prothanes. On first start up I thought something was wrong from so much added vibration, now I don't even notice the extra amount and it feels the way the car should IMO. Girlfriend didn't notice, but a few car-savvy friends did. My cams emphasize the vibrations I'm sure.

Didn't notice much as far as performance, still get an occasional 1-2 crunch when really revved up and torqued (ie, doing a burnout and starting to leave, I've never had an issue at the track), which I was hoping to eliminate. Overall I like the mod.

I've had the same experience, you really notice the vibrations at first but then you get used to it. Ran Prothanes, went to stock for awhile when I was demodding and went back to a Prothane copy due to headers.
 

Pentalab

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I used the steeda HD eng mounts on my 2010. They came with 4 x red poly bushings..and 2 x black poly bushings. The black ones have a slightly higher durometer, and recommended for higher hp applications. So used one red + one black on each side. (the GT-500 gets 4 x black ones, no red ones included).

I noticed a very slight increase in NVH, but only just above my 600 rpm idle
( automatic, in drive, with foot on brake)... like a real narrow range... 640-675 rpm.
Idle has since been increased to 750 rpm, so it's now a moot point. It was a non issue anyway, since I was through the 640-675 rpm range asap. It was only barely noticeable if accelerating real slow, like easing out from a stop sign, trying to turn left.

A lot stiffer than oem mounts. The steeda hd mounts, like several other similar aftermarket mounts, allowed for either stock eng height... or a 1/4 - 1/2 - 3/4 inch eng drop. I used the 1/4" drop option, so I could have a tiny bit more clearance between my steeda STB and Roush CAI. b4, they were just touching.

But you can only go so low. Go way too low, and the primary #8 on the LT would get too close, and possibly touch the steering shaft.
 

Phil1098

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This is what I was wondering, if the Steeda mounts are any different than the Prothanes. Sounds to me from what has been posted the Prothanes are a bit harsh. Keep it coming.
 

Department Of Boost

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This is what I was wondering, if the Steeda mounts are any different than the Prothanes. Sounds to me from what has been posted the Prothanes are a bit harsh. Keep it coming.

The Steeda mounts are garbage. If you pull the "through bolt" to either adjust the height of unbolt the motor mount the entire thing comes apart and parts fall into the K-Member. Dumbest thing I have ever seen.

Prothane FTW.
 

drive_55_not

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The Steeda mounts are garbage. If you pull the "through bolt" to either adjust the height of unbolt the motor mount the entire thing comes apart and parts fall into the K-Member. Dumbest thing I have ever seen.

Prothane FTW.


I had a bolt back out of a Prothane mount also, luckily the lower plate and bushing fell down into the K member so all had to do was fish it out and bolt it back together, using RED loctite.

I used the black bushing mount on my car and really didn't notice any NVH,

The wife beeched that the ride on her '14 was too rough after I lowered it so I installed the red bushing mounts on her car and she didn't notice any vibrations on it either.

.
 

Department Of Boost

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I had a bolt back out of a Prothane mount also, luckily the lower plate and bushing fell down into the K member so all had to do was fish it out and bolt it back together, using RED loctite.

I used the black bushing mount on my car and really didn't notice any NVH,

The wife beeched that the ride on her '14 was too rough after I lowered it so I installed the red bushing mounts on her car and she didn't notice any vibrations on it either.

.
The "through bolt" on the Prothane goes in from the bottom and holds the mount together. Once out together it never needs to be messed with again (if it has Loctite). The Prothane uses an additional/different bolt to hole the mount to the engine mount/wing/ear deal. So when you want to jack the motor up, pull it, move it to the side, etc all you have to do is pull that one top bolt and the motor is free.

The Steeda uses the "top bolt" that goes through the engine mount/wing/ear deal to hold the entire mount together. If you pull that bolt, which you absolutely have to do if you are going to add/remove spacers the mount falls apart into the K-Member. It's dumb design.
 

Phil1098

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The "through bolt" on the Prothane goes in from the bottom and holds the mount together. Once out together it never needs to be messed with again (if it has Loctite). The Prothane uses an additional/different bolt to hole the mount to the engine mount/wing/ear deal. So when you want to jack the motor up, pull it, move it to the side, etc all you have to do is pull that one top bolt and the motor is free.

The Steeda uses the "top bolt" that goes through the engine mount/wing/ear deal to hold the entire mount together. If you pull that bolt, which you absolutely have to do if you are going to add/remove spacers the mount falls apart into the K-Member. It's dumb design.

I'm wondering if they changed their design, now it shows a hex head on the bottom (bolt) and a hex headed bolt coming down from the top.
 

o2sys

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Had BMR K-member with their stiff ass mounts. When it was a weekend car it was fine, when I drove it daily it got tiring quick so went back to OEM.
 

BMR Tech

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OP, I am bias....as I should be. ;)

Myself and Dylan both use our "motor mount" kit on our cars, and NVH isn't too bad at all IMO.

Maybe Dylan will chime in.
 

BMR Tech 2

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I have the BMR mounts in my personal car and I love them. Previously, I had a set of Prothane mounts in for about 2 days before they came out. The car had a NASTY vibration around 2500 RPM that wouldn't go away. I'm not trying to bad mouth Prothane, I had another set of their mounts in the car before the second set and they weren't bad.

When we first came out with our mounts, I was really reluctant to put them on my car since it's a daily driver, but after a few days, I got used to them. The car feels so much more solid (in a good way) and the NVH in my experience is pretty limited. You can definitely tell they're there, but at anything past idle, the car feels like stock. I've had them on the car for about 6 months now and have no desire to go back to the stock mounts.
 

Phil1098

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Do the BMRs fall down into the K member after the top nut is removed? It looks like it has a through bolt. Would I have to have a helper to install, one to be underneath holding the bolt and one person top side tightening the nut?
 

BMR Tech 2

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Do the BMRs fall down into the K member after the top nut is removed? It looks like it has a through bolt. Would I have to have a helper to install, one to be underneath holding the bolt and one person top side tightening the nut?

Yeah, the bolt will drop if you're not holding it. It can tightened without a helper, or you could drop the bolt through the top and leave it hanging while you put the nut on the bottom and hold the lower washer in place. The only thing that will drop when you unbolt the through bolt is the big washer on the bottom.
 

07 Boss

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Any time you go to a stiffer mount you're gonna get more vibration. If you don't like it stick with the OEM hydrobushing things. Personally I don't think I can get this car to vibrate enough to ever bother me. I have had many a car that would rattle the fillings out of your teeth at idle and blur your vision when you punched it. I think it's just part of the game.
 

Department Of Boost

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Any time you go to a stiffer mount you're gonna get more vibration. If you don't like it stick with the OEM hydrobushing things. Personally I don't think I can get this car to vibrate enough to ever bother me. I have had many a car that would rattle the fillings out of your teeth at idle and blur your vision when you punched it. I think it's just part of the game.

I've run solid aluminum mounts on a 3v. It really wasn't that bad. Was it a daily driver? No.
 

MIKE93SVT

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The "through bolt" on the Prothane goes in from the bottom and holds the mount together. Once out together it never needs to be messed with again (if it has Loctite). The Prothane uses an additional/different bolt to hole the mount to the engine mount/wing/ear deal. So when you want to jack the motor up, pull it, move it to the side, etc all you have to do is pull that one top bolt and the motor is free.

The Steeda uses the "top bolt" that goes through the engine mount/wing/ear deal to hold the entire mount together. If you pull that bolt, which you absolutely have to do if you are going to add/remove spacers the mount falls apart into the K-Member. It's dumb design.


just put a set of UPR adjustable mounts on a GT500. they have the same design and are terrible because of it. you have to keep a wrench on the bottom bolt in order to tighten the top one. not a one man job. whole thing falls apart if you pull the top one

Mike
 

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