PD Blower Owners: Tips to keepin it cool.

[Timmbo]

With my 2.8 Mammoth coming in tommorrow I've been doing a lot of thinking on things I can do to keep the intercooler coolant as cool as possible. Skwerl brought up insulating the valley and the bottom of the intake. I'm not so sure about the valley as I think combustion heat should be able to escape the block acting as a heat sink and not just depending on the coolant to take the heat away. However I do think its an excellent idea to insulate the bottom of the intake manifold to insulate it from rising heat from the engine valley. As you can see it's being done by these guys for Boss intakes:

http://www.heatshieldproducts.com/automotive/component-specific-heat-shields/i-m-shield

Since nobody makes anything for the KB manifold I thought I would try this from Jegs. Pricey but I'm only insulating the bottom of the intake. Called Lava Mat:
http://www.jegs.com/p/JEGS-Performance-Products/JEGS-Lava-Mat-Heat-Shield/1412518/10002/-1

I'm thinking it might also be wise to insulate the intercooler hoses under the hood as well with these hose insulators:
http://www.jegs.com/i/Thermo+Tec/893/17075/10002/-1

Im also installing an Afco Dual pass twin fan heat exchanger. But I would like to find a large aftermarket reservoir that will fit right here on the driver side corner. I do not need an icebox reservoir because KB does not recommend that with the liquid cooled blower head unit. The KB intake BTW runs on the passenger side.

Any recommendations would be great. Thanks.

 

[BruceH]

PM gmitch. He did a lot of testing and fabrication to get his kb iats lower.

 

[stkjock]

E85

 

[Mystickeith50]

E85

I wish that god damn magic corn syrum was near me....

 

[Department Of Boost]

PM gmitch. He did a lot of testing and fabrication to get his kb iats lower.

Yep, and despite having custom everything, huge pump, GIGANTIC HE, etc, etc, etc I never could keep it close to anything resembling even "warm".

E85

If you are looking to make 700+hp this the only shot you have.

 

[Bobby]

Use turbos mounted by the trans lol. Jk subed for pics of the build.

 

[Greg Hazlett]

What happened to you buying the new TT kit we are offering?

 

[Department Of Boost]

With my 2.8 Mammoth coming in tommorrow

Shoot me a PM the first time it eats/chucks a belt (which will probably be the fist time you bang 3rd). The 10rib kits goes in production shortly.

What happened to you buying the new TT kit we are offering?

As much as I would like to sell you an R-Spec, I would rather you buy a TT kit from S&H before you put a KB on there.

 

[Greg Hazlett]

Thanks but it sounds like it is too late for that, he said the KB is arriving tomorrow....

 

[Bobby]

i have hear the same thing from my tunner on the belt issues. he has had several that do the exact same thing. also 700 would have been easy on 93 octane with the twin kit and still get 30+ mpg on the highway.

 

[SC2011GT]

Insulating the valley from the bottom of the manifold itself isn't going to do much considering its bolted to the cylinder heads. There is going to be thermal transmission from heads to manifold, no way around it.

You want to keep the compressor cool? Spray something through it. Methanol, nitrous, something...

Before I went to the 7 gallon trunk tank, I had a 2 gallon tank up front. Helps tremendously. I could care less how "hot" the compressor feels to the touch, its all about IAT. I wouldn't bother with elaborate fan setups, much more to be had in increasing quantity of water.

Also, if you want to ice it, put a ball valve in the feed line to the compressor itself. My LC compressor is not even hooked up, I run no water through it at all, ever.

 

[Department Of Boost]

Insulating the valley from the bottom of the manifold itself isn't going to do much considering its bolted to the cylinder heads. There is going to be thermal transmission from heads to manifold, no way around it.

Insulating the pan shows a 8-12deg change. We have done a lot of testing of this.

That said you are right, insulating the manifold at the cylinder heads is what you want to do. That's why we built composite spacers into the R-Spec manifold.

I wouldn't bother with elaborate fan setups, much more to be had in increasing quantity of water.

What happens when all the water gets heated up, which only takes a few minutes.

Also, if you want to ice it, put a ball valve in the feed line to the compressor itself. My LC compressor is not even hooked up, I run no water through it at all, ever.

KB does not want people running cool/ice water to the compressor.

 

[SC2011GT]

That said you are right, insulating the manifold at the cylinder heads is what you want to do. That's why we built composite spacers into the R-Spec manifold.

Very cool.

What happens when all the water gets heated up, which only takes a few minutes.

I didn't say not to run a heat exchanger. I said I would rather have a larger volume of water to heat vs. trying to force efficiency out of the exchanger with fans.

KB does not want people running cool/ice water to the compressor.

This is why I said to put a valve in the feed line to the compressor. Ice in tank, valve shut, no cold water in front of compressor. I do not run ANYTHING through the front of mine. It is capped.

 

[Department Of Boost]

I didn't say not to run a heat exchanger. I said I would rather have a larger volume of water to heat vs. trying to force efficiency out of the exchanger with fans.

I getcha. I didn't think you were saying not to run a HE.

I've found that with drag cars having a larger volume of water/ice is great as long as there is enough volume to make it through the burnout, staging and the run without heating up.

In street cars I've found that a larger volume of water doesn't do any good after a few minutes of running because you end up heat soaking the entire supply and end up just hauling around a bunch of warm water.

Of course street cars/DD's have completely different heat loading than a strip car does.

This is why I said to put a valve in the feed line to the compressor. Ice in tank, valve shut, no cold water in front of compressor. I do not run ANYTHING through the front of mine. It is capped.

Sorry, I should have been clearer. I wasn't directing that comment at you. I know you know. I just wanted to make it clear to those not in the know that KB wants 180-200deg water run through the compressor. The cold/cool/ice water can damage the bearing plate in the compressor.

 

[SC2011GT]

I getcha. I didn't think you were saying not to run a HE.

I've found that with drag cars having a larger volume of water/ice is great as long as there is enough volume to make it through the burnout, staging and the run without heating up.

In street cars I've found that a larger volume of water doesn't do any good after a few minutes of running because you end up heat soaking the entire supply and end up just hauling around a bunch of warm water.

Of course street cars/DD's have completely different heat loading than a strip car does.


Sorry, I should have been clearer. I wasn't directing that comment at you. I know you know. I just wanted to make it clear to those not in the know that KB wants 180-200deg water run through the compressor. The cold/cool/ice water can damage the bearing plate in the compressor.

I saw a guy with an SRT Jeep with a 2.8 LC on it at our local track. I see him packing ice into his reservoir, packing more ice, key on, key off, more ice, lol. After a while I hear him start this thing up and that poor compressor was HOWLING.

I don't want 180 degree water running through anything besides the block, myself.

KB told me tell tale sign of ice water run through an LC compressor, is the front lobes chewed up from contacting each other when bearing plate contracts and closes that tolerance up.

 

[bakerjd]

Killer Chiller setup might help out.

 

[blownGTvert]

Killer Chiller setup might help out.

The Killer Chiller works great using the A/C system to lower the IC coolant temp. There are 2 version, one that retains ~50% AC inside the car. The "race" version uses 100% capacity of the A/C for cooling the IC coolant, leaving no AC inside the car.

Ive found that the race version works so well that it causes issues with e85 cars. On cooler days (Michigan) not enough heat gets in the motor with the Killer Chiller running. The engine just doesn't get upto temp to run well. Again this is only an issue when using e85 fuel. And on these days just turn the AC off, effectively turning the Killer Chiller off.

 

[stkjock]

Killer Chiller setup might help out.

never seen one work well on the S197s

"94tbird" had one, messed with it for a long while, tweaking, re-plumbing, etc... took it out.

 

[Timmbo]

What happened to you buying the new TT kit we are offering?

You guys gave me way too much time to think about what I really wanted lol. As much as I wanted to try turbo, at the end of the day I chose to stay with a PD blower. It's nothing personal at all or business wise. Bobby has done nothing but go out of his way to provide customer service before the sale. Anyone that buys your kit I'm sure will be well taken care of. I have just always had a thing for the PD blowers.

Shoot me a PM the first time it eats/chucks a belt (which will probably be the fist time you bang 3rd). The 10rib kits goes in production shortly.

I did up- spec the kit with an 8 rib setup with the 7.5' crank and the next to largest blower pulley that is a 3.5". Plenty of belt wrap contact area IMO for 20psi. However, I've been advised by some to step up to a UPR tensioner. Jason, I will definitely keep you in mind should I have issues.

I think for right now I'm going to try the stock heat exchanger setup over the summer. If I'm not satisfied I will upgrade to the AFCO twin fan next winter. Between running E85 and the blower head unit being liquid cooled I want to do a little real world testing myself before I spend more money. Beefcake got me setup with a Fore Level 4 return system and ID1000 injectors. I'm all set to go on E85 which will be a big help.

BTW, this build is mostly for fun to pound around on the streets on nice weekends, cruise ins or the occasional trip to east TN to visit family. It will never be a daily driver nor will it be at the track every weekend. But I would however like to take it to our local 1/8 mile track a few times just for fun. I don't take myself or my hobbies to seriously but I appreciate everyones advice and opinions.

 

[Department Of Boost]

I did up- spec the kit with an 8 rib setup with the 7.5' crank and the next to largest blower pulley that is a 3.5". Plenty of belt wrap contact area IMO for 20psi. However, I've been advised by some to step up to a UPR tensioner. Jason, I will definitely keep you in mind should I have issues.

At a minimum it will slip.

I doubt that pulley combo will make 700hp.......maaaaayyybbeeeee in e85, maybe.

I think for right now I'm going to try the stock heat exchanger setup over the summer. If I'm not satisfied I will upgrade to the AFCO twin fan next winter. Between running E85 and the blower head unit being liquid cooled I want to do a little real world testing myself before I spend more money. Beefcake got me setup with a Fore Level 4 return system and ID1000 injectors. I'm all set to go on E85 which will be a big help.

e85 is a completely different matter. e85 keeps things quite a bit cooler.

I thought you wanted to run your combo on pump?