piston ring question

[sportinawoody]

do you guys, that have typically built your own motors , follow the ford manual on clocking the 1&2 compression rings 90 degrees apart or do you do the 180 degrees ? also is there a particular oil to use or just engine oil to seat a stainless top ring ?

 

[W3bb3r04]

I did mine according to the FORD manual. I also used some cheap oil for the first start up and heat cycle, and then put in Joe Gibbs Break in oil to seat the rings and everything.

 

[BruceH]

I put mine about 120 apart. Any conventional oil is going to work for break in. I've used Castrol, Mobil 5000, and Wal-Mart Super Tech. I was so impressed with the maker of super tech that I'm running it now.

Conventional until it's broken in. Then whatever you want.

 

[W3bb3r04]

I put mine about 120 apart. Any conventional oil is going to work for break in. I've used Castrol, Mobil 5000, and Wal-Mart Super Tech. I was so impressed with the maker of super tech that I'm running it now.

Conventional until it's broken in. Then whatever you want.

What do you like about the Super tech?

 

[19COBRA93]

I space my rings just like the manual recommends. Even though the rings rotate constantly while the engine is running, I see no harm in spacing them like that for start up.

For stainless top rings, absolutely use conventional oil for break in. And, those rings will take a bit of time to seat. They need some RPM to do it. They're great rings though. I probably should have ran them in mine.

 

[BruceH]

What do you like about the Super tech?

The last thing I want to do is start an oil debate. It's rebranded from a quality manufacturer, it's api certified, and it's inexpensive. This allows for more frequent oil changes. The last thing I'm going to do is run extended drain intervals with a performance engine.

The conventional is made by Mobil, synthetic and blend come from Warren Distributing.

I also like the Ford blend for the same reasons.

 

[W3bb3r04]

The last thing I want to do is start an oil debate. It's rebranded from a quality manufacturer, it's api certified, and it's inexpensive. This allows for more frequent oil changes. The last thing I'm going to do is run extended drain intervals with a performance engine.

The conventional is made by Mobil, synthetic and blend come from Warren Distributing.

I also like the Ford blend for the same reasons.

Okay thanks! Thats all I needed! I will give it a shot this time around!

 

[sportinawoody]

I was told joe gibbs also for the zinc and phosphorous and stay away from the additives as they leave a black residue in the pan and just use his stuff cause its loaded with both just for the breakin of 3-500 miles then use whatever oil your heart desires.

 

[05stroker]

I do the 180 deg method as Manley recommends for my rings. I would follow the manufactures recommendations for there rings. That being said I have ran ford specs before with no issues as well.

 

[one eyed willy]

I do the 180 also, and i use Valvoline VR1 conventional....it has zinc, and bitches love zinc!!

 

[sportinawoody]

motor went together last night with 180 and joe gibbs on the oil rings. thanks for the input guys

 

[AutoXRacer]

Valvoline VR1 here too!!!

 

[BruceH]

Valvoline VR1 here too!!!

And how did that work for you? Lol. Just giving you a hard time.

 

[AutoXRacer]

And how did that work for you? Lol. Just giving you a hard time.

Thats just wrong!!! lol

Not sure as I had stupid FRPP 80lb injectors that washed down my cylinder walls and totally my short block. sigh

 

[BruceH]

Thats just wrong!!! lol

Not sure as I had stupid FRPP 80lb injectors that washed down my cylinder walls and totally my short block. sigh

It is wrong but I was pretty sure you would get a chuckle out of it.

 

[lito]

^LOL.

We used VR1, now we may need to switch to cooking oil, IF we could find it.

Now back on topic, SS rings need heat and if you don't do it right, you may lose it. Typical in the know builders recommendation is a heat cycle to check for leaks, pressure, all, and straight to the dyno.

 

[aleborjas]

I use vr1 and some mild wot runs and works great i use now modmax stainless rings they seat easier and work great and bit cheaper many engine builders use them because they are flatter and smoother than total seals AP...

 

[BruceH]

I use vr1 and some mild wot runs and works great i use now modmax stainless rings they seat easier and work great and bit cheaper many engine builders use them because they are flatter and smoother than total seals AP...

Every time I break in a new motor I'm more aggressive with it. Warm it up and drive it progressively harder as soon as possible while varying the rpms and hitting hills to put a good load on it. Works great.

Why stainless rings? Big boost?

 

[sportinawoody]

I had stupid FRPP 80lb injectors

Dan @ Prodyno asked me politely not to bring my car with the junk 80's as they were cheap for more reasons than 1. Sorry if that sounds mean , I'm just projecting what has been pushed on me.

Why stainless rings? Big boost?

I'm expecting 17ish but wanted to throw a shot of nitrous from time to time outta the hole. Little Whipple makes to much heat past there. That's why I went with stainless but who knows, I may do the twins down the road

 

[Dubstep Shep]

Dan @ Prodyno asked me politely not to bring my car with the junk 80's as they were cheap for more reasons than 1.

Quick tangent here, but why are those injectors bad?

I found a used set with 3.5k miles for $200. Could be the difference between e85 and 91 for me.