retfr8flyr
The Old One
You're correct, brain fart. The BOV needs to be post TB and the W/G needs to be pre TB.I think you may have those backwards man, as the BOV needs to be able to see vac so its source should be post TB
Earl
You're correct, brain fart. The BOV needs to be post TB and the W/G needs to be pre TB.I think you may have those backwards man, as the BOV needs to be able to see vac so its source should be post TB
Got cats? If so have you checked them?
Second sentence, first post, no cats.
Second sentence, first post, no cats.
Ok, just my two cents here and I hope it helps. I have alot of experience with turbo cars/ big trucks. I know for a FACT that when you have a leak in the system, no matter how big or how little it effects how quickly you will build boost. From what I understand, you say that its slow to build boost but once you are finally building your 14psi of boost(should be 16 psi) it runs good but slow to get built up right? Ok, I would pull your front bumper cover off ASAP and start looking for cracks in welds, possible a rock might have hit your intercooler and busted it? If you had a exhaust temp sensor you could see if it was getting hotter than usual, as that will be a sign of a leak. Antoher thing to note that usually when I have a leak on my systems, you can actually hear the leak most of the time it will either make a blowing or sucking sound. Just a thought also, I have seen intake gaskets start leaking too. Have you thought of that? How old are they? How many miles on them? I believe it something simple, just going to take a little time and effort. Good luck and hope I gave you some ideas if you didn't already know about them.
Very good point redstangs, smoking a system helps quite a bit, but when you've got a leak that may only show up under boost, that adds quite a few more problems in finding the leak.
Hell, you may even have a crack in your intake that only expands under boost. With the noise the engine and turbo makes on boost, it'll be hard to find unless you get luck or disassemble your system and inspect it piece by piece.
I use a 4" PVC cap with a valve stem in the end, I clamp it down where my air filter is at before the turbo. Then I have a oval piece of wood I cut that fits my throttle body coupler. I pressurize my system to 30psi, it holds the pressure for a decent amount of time. I find every little leak when I do this using a squirt bottle with water and dish soap!
For the exhaust I use my DIY smoke machine, it works good but no pressure so it's good for finding bigger leaks only.it did help me find a cracked manifold that I could hear leaking but could not see the crack.
I would be looking at that waste gate if it were me....disconnect the pipe feeding it back to the exhaust and listen to when it opens, also try disconnecting the vac lines to see if it spools faster with them disconnected.
What brand waste gate is it?
If there were a leak in the lines that go to either the BOV or the wastegate I would think it would cause slower build as it would be a leak of pressure. The line off the top of the intercooler that goes to the wastegate is pressure so a leak would be bad. Then the line that goes to the BOV is pressure also so that would cause issues also.
I'm not an expert by any means but a leak is a leak. If you fill up an air compressor and it has a leak it will take a longer time to overcome the leak and fill up the tank. A leaky coldside(busted vacume hose) will still be a leak and less efficient system. I'd say at a certain point of turbo spool the amount of air your turbo puts out would eventually overcome a small leak because your turbo is going to keep cranking air till your signal to your wastegate says hey lets think about opening. If you pull the line from your wastegate all together it won't open and that will be bad news. Just my thinking on the situation. You could easily pull your BOV vacuum line and pressure test that or just replace.
Ever get a handle on the situation?